Hi,

The transmission, torque tube and rear suspesion etc. is all out. I suspect my fork may be broken or the T/O bearing may be seized or some such. To access these:

Question 1, Do I need to remove the intake manifold?
2, Do I need to remove the exhaust system?

or can I just take the reference sensors off and get to removing the bellhousing?

TIA,

Lanny

 

Also, do I need to remove the clutch fork pivot shaft first?

 

Yes.

It can be done with the cross over pipe in place, but I take it out.

Intake stays on.

Just remove the fork pivot, the sensors and everything that bolts to the bell housing (starter, waste gate bracket, slave cylinder) and it should come right off. (You might need to pry it a little bit, because there are two locating pins that can be a little tight.)

Good luck!

 

Thanks, Van. I haven't been able to find a 150mm 8mm bolt to remove the pivot with. What do you do or use?

Lanny

 

I grabbed a 60mm bolt with vice grips and got it out that way. Hit it with Blaster as best you can.

 

use one of the PP bolts.

Remove sensors, grounds. You might as well get the heater valve out of your way, it can be a real PITA when working of that bolt right under it. Lanny, you will have to pull that pivot pin to get the bell housing off or pull all the PP bolts (9) to remove the clutch assembly and bell housing.

 

OK. Thanks. You would never beieve what I was thinking. I thought you had to drift the pivot shaft up rather than down. Not too bright sometimes. oh well. I'm on it. Thanks for the help!

Lanny

 

OK. It's the throw out bearing. After using the advice I got here I made fairly short work of getting the bellhousing off and the throw out bearing is flopping loose and letting go of some half parts like bearing races and things. So, tomorrow I'll go the other way and put it all back together again. Thanks to all the advice givers. It was all good and it all helped.

Lanny

 

We like to hear that we were helpfull!

 

Oddly enough the bearing itself is fine. It was the retainers and or spacers that came adrift. I'm still replacing the bearing but wanted to let you know the odd **** that happens.

 

I am dealing with the same issue as you right now Lanny. I need to get mine all bolted back together, but it is damn cold in the garage>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>good luck.

 

Lanny, curious, did the snap/split ring and washer come loose from the throw out bearing on the inside?

 

The bearing body was still through the pp. the retainers, at least that's what I assume they are, (thing that looks like a very thin gear and slim ring) were worn in half and burnt. The bearing could then slop back and forth through the fingers of the pressure plate. What do you think? The split ring and washer are still intact and holding the bearing inside the pp.

 

Get a TO bearing kit; but at the same time, you've got it apart, that's more than half of the problems doing a clutch, new one? - just pay close attention when you take the clutch assy apart - things have to go a certian way. I recommend a cluth guide pin too, if you're going to put the assembly on and then the bell housing. At least get the fork crack checked (the oilfield crack check stuff works pretty good) and the needle bearings can sometimes be a bitch, but take it to work with you, maybe you can find a press and a mechanic to machine you a brass drift.

 

Thanks, Bret. I have a friend here with presses, drifts and pretty much every snap-on tool known to man. I never thought about having the fork checked for cracks but it makes good sense and is easily done. Take care. I assume you're back at your MODU?

Lanny