Oil cooler
#1
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Does anyone have tested data about necessity of a larger oil cooler. Especially if car not raced, but has several trackdays each year and local temps are generally between 20-25C ( 68-77F ), but always below 30C ( 86F ).
3.0l displacement and a tad larger turbocharger should be noted here...
3.0l displacement and a tad larger turbocharger should be noted here...
#2
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I'm running dual oil coolers to be safe. One in place where the stock IC used to be. I've heard about how wonderful SETRAB oil coolers are if you're going with another location - plus they're based out of Sweeden I think. The KISS oil cooler setup is great from lindsey racing.
The use of an oil cooler is wise for a street car for traffic etc. due to its properties as extra insurance.
The use of an oil cooler is wise for a street car for traffic etc. due to its properties as extra insurance.
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#3
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I have a Mocal in my car, which is mainly for track use. It works great. However, at the temps where you live, with only a few track days per year, I don't think I'd bother unless you are having problems with oil pressure/temps.
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The stock oil cooler does not do the job on the track with a modified engine. At the stock boost level with a stock engine it will still run on the hot side.
On a 3.0 with a turbo upgrade you should add more oil cooling for track use. For street use the stock cooling is fine.
On a 3.0 with a turbo upgrade you should add more oil cooling for track use. For street use the stock cooling is fine.
#5
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OK, but is then there such thing as " too big oil cooler" ??
I was looking for this: Setrab SE-910, 10 rows, H=75 mm, L=405 mm, D=50 mm ( 3"x 16"x 2" ).
I was looking for this: Setrab SE-910, 10 rows, H=75 mm, L=405 mm, D=50 mm ( 3"x 16"x 2" ).
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Yes to the "TO BIG" question as if its too big you can lose pressure (pressure drop) and that's really not good. My first one (built into radiator) is 2" tall 10" long and 5" thick. The second one I'm not too sure as its an SFR unit and his oil stuff is like top secret or something, but its good size as well. The one you're suggesting doesn't sound like it would pose a problem.
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Originally Posted by pete95zhn
OK, but is then there such thing as " too big oil cooler" ??
I was looking for this: Setrab SE-910, 10 rows, H=75 mm, L=405 mm, D=50 mm ( 3"x 16"x 2" ).
I was looking for this: Setrab SE-910, 10 rows, H=75 mm, L=405 mm, D=50 mm ( 3"x 16"x 2" ).
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Its not always a matter of size rather than the quality and design of the cooler. Setrab and Mocal are good coolers and even the larger ones offer low pressure drops. You can check the Setrab website and they give you the data. Its the knock off brands that you have to stay away from.
http://www.setrabusa.com/ocdims&appassist.pdf
http://www.setrabusa.com/ocdims&appassist.pdf
#9
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Rather than replacing the stock oil cooler (which is designed and optimized for this engine and oil flow/pressure), why not improve the cooling airflow to, through, and from it?
The ducting to, through, and from the stock oil cooler could stand some help. Specifically, the ducting to it could be sealed with plastic or fiberglass, and/or, yes, duct tape.
Through-flow of the oil cooler can be restored with a good cleaning of the fins with brake cleaner, a toothbrush, and a pressure washer from the back side (washes grit out of rather than jamming into the fins).
Perhaps more importantly, a better exit path for the cooling air is needed. A fiberglass or plastic duct could easily be made and installed, exhausting the cooling air through that flapper in the plastic wheel well liner, as the wheel wells are relatively low ambient pressure at speed. (Air flow past the wheel well is accelerated, so has lower pressure per Bernoulli.)
NACA did a lot of lab and wind tunnel tests in the 1940s of various cooler and duct designs, and found that the EXIT ducts were as important as intake ducts for optimized cooling flow.
The same reasoning applies to our intercooler, btw.
The ducting to, through, and from the stock oil cooler could stand some help. Specifically, the ducting to it could be sealed with plastic or fiberglass, and/or, yes, duct tape.
Through-flow of the oil cooler can be restored with a good cleaning of the fins with brake cleaner, a toothbrush, and a pressure washer from the back side (washes grit out of rather than jamming into the fins).
Perhaps more importantly, a better exit path for the cooling air is needed. A fiberglass or plastic duct could easily be made and installed, exhausting the cooling air through that flapper in the plastic wheel well liner, as the wheel wells are relatively low ambient pressure at speed. (Air flow past the wheel well is accelerated, so has lower pressure per Bernoulli.)
NACA did a lot of lab and wind tunnel tests in the 1940s of various cooler and duct designs, and found that the EXIT ducts were as important as intake ducts for optimized cooling flow.
The same reasoning applies to our intercooler, btw.