Lanny Curlett

Hi,

The P/O of my wrecked 88 s put a Turbo Cup Clutch in it. As I'm getting ready to tear into mine I was wondering what, specifically, is a Turbo Cup Clutch? Is it worth swapping into my car assuming that the 4000 miles of wear hasn't hurt it? The motor is out of the wreck so access is a joke. As I have never done a clutch job (Clarks Garage is my friend) the learnuing curve will be much easier by removing the one from the wreck first. Thoughts?

TIA,

Lanny

SamGrant951

How many miles are on your clutch? Are you going to be down there in your car for any other reason? (oilpan, rms?)

toddk911

When my stock clutch went I put in a Cup clutch. Very nice and smooth. But has/is holding plenty of power/boost.

Lanny Curlett

I'm going in because I believe my throw out bearing may be siezed. I've replaced slave and master, bought a Mite Vac, a Motive Bleeder and used them til I'm brake fluid blue in the face. I still can't get the clutch to disengage. I'm uncertain of the miles on the existing clutch. Any thoughts?

Lanny

Van

Broken release fork? I've seen it twice before.

Lanny Curlett

That actually makes sense and fits the symptoms. Slave, master ok and properly bled but clutch pedal doesn't want to come off the floor.

Jason @ Paragon Products

The "Cup Clutch" is made up of the same pressure plate and throw out bearing as what the car came with...the difference is the disk. The Cup disk does not have the little springs near the center of the disk that frequently fall out and cause problems.

Droops83

Before you get into tearing apart your car, at least try bleeding the clutch circuit again. 944s are notorious for being tricky to get all the air out, even if you pressure bleed it correctly.


First off, make sure that the clutch circuit section of the brake fluid reservior is full before you bleed it. You have to pour brake fluid in past the MAX line, only then will it spill over into the forward chamber. Also make sure your pressure bleeder isn't running out of fluid. If you still can't get the air out after conventional means, go further.

There is a hard line that runs along the firewall that makes some sharp bends, air bubbles like to get trapped in there. Have a helper work the clutch pedal while you manually bleed the line connection up there. It's a bit messy, make sure you have a catch container/rags, and rinse the area w/ water after. Also try reverse bleeding the system: you can use one of those little oil squirt cans used for engine assembly or something similar filled w/ brake fluid and a vacuum hose attached to the end. Make sure you pump your bleeder device till fluid comes out (otherwise you'll be pumping even more air in!), and attach the hose to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Take the cap off the brake fluid reservior in the engine compartment, and crack the bleeder and inject the brake fluid slowly, and watch for bubbles in the reservoir. Once the bubbles stop, you should hopefully have a pedal.

---

Chris Andropoulos
Schneider Autohaus
Santa Barbara, CA

Van

You may be able to reach into the hole on the driver's side of the bell housing (where the slave presses against the release fork) and "feel" if it's broken. You might even be able to get a little inspection mirror in there to look -- but I suspect that's the problem -- especially if the clutch stays at the floor, but you don't have a puddle of brake fluid.

Lanny Curlett

Thanks guys. Today's the day. I'll let you know the results.

Lanny

xsboost90

make sure if you DO swap out clutches you buy a clutch assy. kit from paragon-products- comes w/ the new TO bearing slide and all the bolts and clutch fork pin and bearings- may as well do it "while your in there" and is only 100 or so.

Van

So... what was it?

xsboost90

my money is on the TO bearing slide...