daigo

Still looking for a set of high end shocks.

Thanks

Skip Wolfe

http://www.fast44.com/suspension.html

They carry Motons and and Koni 2812's. They are operated by Steinel's Autowerks - a very well know Porsche shop that is very experiencd in setting up 944's for the track. Talk to Eric Steinel and he'll steer you in the right direction.

wjk_glynn

For a complete list of strut/shock manufacturers supplying setups for the 944/968, see http://www.weissach.net/924-944-968_...l#ShocksStruts

Karl.

fortysixandtwo

Under Pressure Performance is also a dealer for Moton.

daigo

Thanks for the point. This is where I plan to purchase them, I'm just trolling before I buy to make sure there isn't a good used set out there.

Cheers

333pg333

http://www.kw-suspension.com/en/30_P...tion/index.php
Also fantastic product and would be cheaper than the Motons.

daigo

Thanks but there isn't a whole lot of support for KW in North America. They haven't make much of an attempt for in-roads here. I know in the rest of the world their quite respected. I'm not entirely sure they are any cheaper than the Club Sports.

Thanks

wjk_glynn

I'm seriously looking at KW V3 right now. The list price of a KW V3 setup in the US is $2,600... and I know you can get a discount from most US dealers on that price.

Now the KW V3 setup is a street application. Dunno about their race applications. But some of the lap record 996 turbos on the Nordschleife were running KWs...

Karl.

333pg333

I have their 2-way race system and I have taken 5 sec's off my times at our best track in Sydney in just 6 months. Mostly due to the KW's. I had come from full Mo30's which had been modified and added the 968cs coilovers at the rear, and the KW's are far better both on road and track. They ride much better. They have a high speed bypass valving that releases pressure when you e.g. ride the kerbs on the track without upsetting your direction or stability. They're rebuildable. They're corrosion proof. They're multi adjustable. The added traction is unbelievable.
It's only that they haven't made much noise yet in the American marketplace that they're not more popular. People tend to stick with brands that they have used before or that someone else recommends which is natural. I listened to many very satisfied users in the U.K. and am very glad I did!

Skip Wolfe

Unfortunately support is pretty critical with a race shock, and the lack of US support would make me nervous. I would rather spend the extra $300, get the Motons which also have an excellent reputation, and good US based support.

JET951

just as a side question, but has anyone used the ohlins shocks that lindsey sells? i know they are expensive but whats the benifit.

wjk_glynn

I totally agree.



I've heard people express the same concerns about KW, but just a few observations...

There are about 30-40 Moton dealers in the US: http://www.motonsuspension.com/index...orth%20America

And there are "only" about 15-20 KW dealers in the US: http://www.kw-suspension.com/en/60_D..._USA/index.php

However... KW has setup a dedicated North American facility in California for all sorts of aftersales support. See http://www.kw-suspension.com/en/

So I wouldn't feel that concerned that KW would leave you in the lurch.

The Motons are certainly a great buy.

For me personally, looking for a street application, the KWs are my current favorites.

Karl.

PS: "333pg333" has been a great help to me sorting through some of the KW details.

whakiewes

Koni 2812's here...fantastic shock. I too looked into Motons, KW's, and Penske's. The problem with Penskes is you get into gas shocks over oil, and it adds a ton more adjustability at the cost of knowledge...i.e. you need a professional to set it up, where as the DIY can alter oil shocks. I hope that makes sense...i just didn't want to buy shocks that I had to pressurize and bleed myself or pay a knowledgable race shop to do.

As to looking into other brands, here is what I got. Ohlins are good, very good shocks. Built very well, serviceable in the US. Downsides is the costt of the units. They aren't THAT superior to demand what they go for. The best of the best, but not the VERY best. Motons are an off-brand of JRZ, or so I have been told by every Moton dealer. Very good shocks as well, but again not the VERY best. What is the very best - well its what suits the driver the most. If its solely a race car, and you have the means and time to adjust Penskes, then go for it. Completely rebuildable by the end user, completely adjustable, etc... The Motons are very nice, but I couldn't find a discount, and couldn't get a solid answer on valving, etc... I went with the 2812's mostly because I got a good deal on them, but I don't regret it. They are essentially what Ferrari used from 1996-2000, variants. They come with stake (sp?) bearings to except lateral loads far higher than those of say 3012's or 8212's. The shocks are built to take some abuse, and at the same time are very streetable/driveable. They are a mile ahead of the Bilstein Escort Cups. If I could do it again, I would get 2812's would be my choice.

Ohlins, Penske, Motons, Koni's, etc.. all use the same technology. Very similar dampers, very similar cost. All are very good. The choice should be made around use, mileage, and overall cost. IMO, streetability goes as such - Moton Clubsports, Koni 2812's, Ohlins, Moton race, Penske's.

Wes

Skip Wolfe

Make sure you give us a review of your experience if you go down that road Karl. It's always nice to see more options for our cars.

333pg333

Karl, glad to be of service. If you want to check out a couple other sites where there is heavy proliferation of KW's try:
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tt...mode=1&smode=1
http://www.porsche968uk.co.uk/phpbb/index.php

My spring rates are 616 lb/in front and 708 lb/in rear (in combo with my 25.5mm torsion bar). If this was old school suspension (and even some current) there is no way I could drive around the crap streets where I live and keep my teeth in! I also have RacersEdge A-arms, billet hubs, and solid bushings all round + usually on harder riding R-spec rubber, so this is not a compliant ride but I drive it everyday to and from work. Something must be working well for that to be possible. I can also drive it to the track and not even adjust the suspension from it's current settings. Just lower the psi in the tyres and away we go.