First951

Hello Everyone, I just removed my oil pan yesterday and have been debating weather to do the rod bearings. I searched for a write-up on here and Clarks Garage and could not find one. I wanted to read up on the process before i tried anything because i still dont feel comfortable doing them. If anyone knows a good link please post it.
Thanks

Ski

Get new rod nuts, new bearings, a can or tube of assembly lube. You can do two at a time, inpsect the crank, might want to mic it for good measure. Keep the caps straight and numbers to numbers, ie the drivers side. Watch the notches on the rods and bearings, coat with plenty of lube, use a brass hammer to tap the rod cap if needed(off and on), torque to spec - if you have the pan off, it really is that easy. Might want to think about a new pick up seal while you're there. good luck

Techno Duck

It really is very easy once the pan is off. Its basically a 4-5 hours of work to get to them and maybe 30 minutes to get them changed.

Ski covered it pretty well, just make sure you use a good torque wrench and i think its a good idea to torque the bolts down a little on each side as you reach the required torque.

Also a good time to inspect the oil pickup tube for any cracks.

First951

Do you need a special tool to get the rod nuts off ? they dont seem like they were regular nuts.

turbo8

12point socket right?

Techno Duck

A regular 12pt socket is all you need.

db944

12 point socket as opposed to the garden variety 6 sided sockets in most chinese sets. Hint: Sears and Craftsman is your friend.

Porsche-O-Phile

Another worthy search is for the "Danno bombproof oil pan gasket" write-up. It involves using Yamabond-4 (motorcycle cement, available at most cycle shops) in lieu of the uber-expensive Porsche Silastic sealant on the pan gasket. This is the system I'm using. Supposedly he (Danno) replaced the pan gasket with this stuff and ran the car under full boost with NO bolts in the oil pan and it held just fine. Strong enough for me. A few other people I know have also used this method with great success.

cruise98

Holding the oil pan gasket on the block while you raise and position the pan is a challenge. I used six long (~60-70mm) bolts that had the head cut off and a slot cut in them to facilitate removal later. Insert the studs into the block a few turns, evenly spaced around the sides, dab the four "corners" of the block with the sealant, place the gasket on the block and press into the grooves. The studs will hold the gasket in place while you install the pan, and get all of the other bolts started. No string or dental floss to cuss at and get tangled up in. Sealant on the gasket has not been necessary in my experience, but you must keep the surfaces absolutely clean. Dab the crank, girdle and the block until you no longer get drips. Getting oil on the new gasket or gasket surfaces is the enemy of a dry engine.

Definitely do the rod bearings while you are this close.

First951

Thanks for the help guys , i will do the rod bearings, should i go with aftermarket rod bearing that Paragon sells or OEM from Lindsey?

Techno Duck

A good trick to hold the gasket onto the oil pan is to tie it on with dental floss at a few spots. Put the pan on and secure it with 4-6 bolts in, cut and pull out the dental floss...makes life alot easier.