amschnellsten

I just recently tried to start my car and I am not getting spark. The strange thing is when I turn the key to the on position I heard a siren (loud) noise coming from the distributer cap. I pulled the distibuter cap and the center electrode is a firework show. It stays sparking continously. It does this when i am not even cranking. The car will cough occasionaly but still no spark. The other strange thing is when you turn to different positions with the key the car seems almost to start without cranking. I have two klrs and plugged them both in the one occasionally gets a spark. I also changed out the battery and nothing changed. The tach bounces slightly so I assume the reference sensors are fine. What should i do next. Is there a way to check to make sure the dme harness is getting the proper voltages signals ect. Has anyone seen this distributer thing before? I justed changed out mafs, turbo, and injectors. I assume the spark thing should not be related though. The car has a history of loosing spark but I thought I had traced that down to a bad guru ignition chip. The two brains I am swapping out, one has a stock chip and the other has an autothority chip. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

xsboost90

should not be getting spark without cranking. I would say something is hooked up wrong- maybe your coil?

amschnellsten

I never changed a thing on the coil. If I am not mistaken, when you first power the car up doesn't the klr fire the coil one time? It seems like it is stuck in that position, when it makes the whistling siren noise.

amschnellsten

is there a way to bypass the klr and have the car run?

amschnellsten

help

Bri Bro

The ignition coil is driven by the DME. The KLR adjusts the timing of the ignition pulse, this adjusted timing is sent to the DME to drive the coil. The coil has one side connected to 12V (ignition switch) and the other side is pulsed to ground by the DME to generate the spark. Sounds like the coil drive circuit in the DME is defective and is pulsing all the time, even with the engine stopped.

amschnellsten

is there anyway to check this on the dme and or does anyone have one for sale for an 86.

fast951

Before you start replacing parts, more testing is needed. WARNING - If you are uncomfortable working on the electrical system, STOP and take it to a good shop. Working in the following areas, if not done properly can cause damage to the car. More important, you can get hurt. The coil can zap you and hurt you. You have been warned!!!

There are more things to test, this should get you started. Report back with the results...


DISCONNECT BATTERY! UNPLUG DME!

The components you want to check are:

- Wire from DME pin #1 to coil
If the wire is shorted to ground, anywhere between the DME plug and the coil, it will cause the coil to fire. Disconnect DME, check continuity of pin #1 & ground.

- Coil
If the coil somehow got damaged and shorted to ground, this will cause it to fire. A remote possibility. Disconnect the Ground lead (same wire coming from DME #1). Connect Power to Positive terminal on coil. Coil sould not fire. If it does, it's bad.


- DME
If the DME is damaged, it could ground pin #1 all of the time. This causes the coil to fire! Eventually the coil will get damaged. Disconnect GROUND wire (going to pin #1 DME) from the coil. Reconnect DME & Battery.
With ignition OFF check continuity of this terminal to ground, shoud be an open circuit.
- Ignition ON (just on not starting). Check continuity. What do you get?
- Same test, now unplug the KLR.


- KLR
If the KLR is damaged it "might" send a continuous fire signal to the DME. Very rare, I'm not sure it'll even cause what you describe.. If you cannot find the problem from the prior tests, post back and I'll show you how to get the KLR out of the loop.

amschnellsten

new findings. I did not get to do these tests yet john but I did bypass the klr with pin 9 and 16. The car started right up and no siren noise or sparks. I have two klrs one with stock and other with autothority neither one I get spark out of. I did swap chips between the two and neither worked still. I have had on and off spark problems over the years (intermitent). So I assume i have a bad klr. Or could the dme still be causing the problem. I had a snap on osscilliscope but just sold it but if needed I can borrow it back. Is there any more tests I can do before I buy a klr. I have tested the reference sensors but with vac and they are reading right. I also checked my injector wires because I read that on another post but I had replaced the wiring. (I spliced in a vw passat 1.8t harness in) But that has always been fine. We cheked the grounds and power to the dme and klr and they are fine also. I will do your tests tomorrow john but should I take a different direction since the car runs with the klr bypassed. thanks again.

fast951

So you disconnected the KLR and bridged #9 & #16 and the car runs? If that's the case I would think 85% chance the KLR is bad (15% DME). The DME sends the KLR signal (other than the ignition) that affect the KLR and could be causing it to act up.
Since you have 2 KLR, try one of them in someone else's car. First try with your chip, then swap chips with a good one.

I would not drive the car without the KLR. You still need the TPS signals from the KLR...

Based on your results so far, assume:
- Coil is fine
- Wire between DME & coil fine
- DME to coil is fine

Problems remain:
- KLR 85%
- DME 15%


Keep an eye on your coil, you might have weakened it.

amschnellsten

unfortunately I am the only person I know with a 944t. anyone have a klr for sale. 86

lart951

Try this guy he seems to be a good seller

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...044874681&rd=1

fast951

If you have 2 KLRs, send them out to someone with a 951 to test for you. My race car is down for winter mods, otherwise I'll test them for you.

Better yet, get LART's KLR... The KLR box can be out of any MY 951,

special tool

Lart's KLR will be good.

amschnellsten

I am trying now to get lart's klr. anyone else want to test mine.