ewainwright

I am not technically trained (MBA). I had an intermittent start no start situation similar to what you are experiencing. When my car was cranking and the tech wasn’t moving my car, like yours, wouldn’t start. I changed the DME relay, the DME (that sucked), position and timing sensors and the problem still occasionally raised its ugly head. I finally pull out and replaced every rely in the fuse box that was related to the ignition. Problem solved

Mark-87-951

ARrgghgghg!!

So, I replace the speed sensor. My old one was very dirty on the end, so I figured that was the problem as old and new tested to the same resistance. I crank it, and get a tach reading but the battery is too worn down from all this cranking and no starting and gives up. I get a jump start and it cranks strong, with no problem, but now I get no tach reading!!! Checked the connections at the sensor, that was fine.

Now what?? Getting incredibly frustrated.

Mark-87-951

bump

Ski

Mark, time to pull the rubber boot back on the back side of the female connector of the sensors(speed and reference) and see if the shielding is worn and the possibility of the wires touching. I have seen several injector plugs like this and some rennlisters here have installed new connectors with great success.

Do you happen to have a spare DME just to test with, a KLR also?

Mark-87-951

I checked the fuel injector wires before because they did cause a problem last year. Right now the wires are seperated with elec. tape. And looked fine when I checked due to the latest problems. If they're still causing a problem would pulling a spark plug and checking for fuel wetting indicate they're not firing? Also, if they are the problem would they prevent the tach from reading because I dont have the tach moving - again, even after replacing the harness, speed sensor and dme relay. I got a tach reading for various periods of time after each one of those changes but always back to nothing. I'm going to see if I can upload some pics of my dme board. I'm not sure the pics are clear enough but maybe someone can see if there's a problem there.

Mark-87-951

Pics of my DME. The link at the bottom of each pic will take you to full size image



Full Size Image1



Full Size Image2

Mark-87-951

The mystery saga continues

I put the dme back in the car to do some more testing
Bypassed the klr
Cranks but no start
Bypassed the DME relay per Clarke's Garage
Heard the fuel pump energize
Neighbor gave me a jump start so cranked strong
He also verified I was getting spark
But again, cranked, no start
Tach still not reading while cranking despite changing the dme relay, wiring harness and speed sensor earlier.

So, what's the problem(s)??

I'm thinking time to replace the fuel injector harness, no biggee I wanted to eventually anyway but the tach not reading is still an issue.

Could my fuel pump energize and not provide enough pressure?

And still the tach not reading issue.

I like mystery movies but this is irritating.

Mark-87-951

Oh, and where can I get a new connector for the klr pin? I trashed one thinking removal was the same as the dme pins.

Ski

eagleday.com or kayjay.com

if the tach is not moving, the car has no sense of rpm. pull the boot back on the female connector, see wiring is corroded and see if the pins are loose on the male connector.

if you play with or remove those sensors, cover up that hole into the bell housing.

Mark-87-951

but how can that be? I changed the harness to the sensor, replaced the sensor, the old one was very dirty on the end, got the tach reading but my battery was to drained to do much more than barely crank. Got a jump start and then no tach reading.

Ski

sorry, didn't read back that far

did you get the wires crossed into pin 27 and 28 IIRC, sorry I'm at work and not at home with diagrams and wire colors.

Mark-87-951

I dont think I crossed any wires. Would that explain getting a reading at first but none now?

Ski

no clue on that. Was there a shim under the sensor when you replaced it? If you remove the bracket, depending on how you(someone else) set the sensors up, you can put shims under the speed and reference sensors to get the small amount of seperation correct. I think the speed sensor gap is like .8mm Have you pulled it out since you replaced it, got a signal and not getting one now, to see what the end of it looks like?

Mark-87-951

Only pulled the sensor no shim. I havent pulled it again. I'm going to try and take my DME to a local tv repair shop tomorrow and see if they can inspect it and fix any solder joints needing it. If that doesnt work, I'll check the new sensor and see if something changes.

Ski

good luck, I know this can be frustrating.