Mark-87-951

Here's what my ground wire looks like some. More of the insulation came off when I removed it.



My power line, down to the starter has some cracks in the insulation with a bit of corrosion starting as well. So, what are my options? I really wish I had bought Iceshark's wiring upgrade!

Mark-87-951

sigh, car still will not start and no reading from the tach. This is wearing me down.

To review:

I changed the dme relay
fuel injector harness
ref. sensor harness
ref. sensors
had dme resoldered and cleaned
bypassed factory alarm
replaced main power and ground lines from the battery

at various times throughout all of that, I would get a reading from the tach but I had drained the battery to much to really crank it well. So, I get the battery recharged or a jump start and back to no reading from the tach every time.

That's when I checked the main ground and it was very corroded and the power line was getting that way as well with cracks in the insulation. I just finished replacing them and putting it all together. Battery was recharged awhile back and cranked strong but no reading from the tach again.

At some point in all of this I bypased the dme relay and could hear fuel going into the rail. I also had a neighbor verify I was getting spark. So my injectors must not be firing and I would consider that maybe I wired them wrong, but that doesnt explain the tachometer not working.

Suggestions? Is my DME that shot? When I got it back from being resoldered, I got a reading from the tach, but again, when I got the battery recharged, no reading.

Ski

Just a shot Mark, have you double checked the alarm bypass? Have you done anything with the air bag controller?

You can ohm out the injector harness with the DME harness - pin 14 goes to injectors 3 & 4, pin 15 to 1 & 2. Maybe someone who has the FSM can tell you the ground wire pin, which is common, I don't remember that number.

Mark-87-951

Yeah, checked that. Nice and tight. The reason I bypassed the alarm was because at one point it was clicking as it would when I used to turn it on and forget to turn it off before opening a door. I havent turned it on for years now.

What do you mean ohm out?

Ski

Get a DVM, put it on the ohm scale, touch a pin on 1 and 2 injector harness, have the other one pin 15 of the DME plug, and if you have "tone" on the DVM, you should hear a tone, meaning you have a good solid wire in between the two points.

Mark-87-951

ah, I have a multitester. I'll have to try that.

Mark-87-951

Another data point to add to this problem.

For some time now my stock boost gauge has not worked. I doubt it even moves when the ignition is on, but I'll look tomorrow. I bypassed the klr once and it didnt start but with everything I've changed since then, I'll give it another shot.

I have a line on a euro dme/klr for a turbo s with authority chips but I'm not sure how that would work with my k26/6 with an accuboost. I'm currently using huntley chips with an 86 dme. Any suggestions?

Mark-87-951

boost gauge doesnt move at all when the ignition is turned on. Bypassing the klr has no effect. I'm going to see if I still have chips laying around and swap out the huntley racing chips and see if anything changes.

Mark-87-951

I changed the DME and KLR chips back to stock and still nothing, no response from the tach. I pulled a plug and it was wet and I could smell the gasoline. I had a neighbor a week or so ago confirm that I was getting spark so I'm not sure what to think now.

951 Chuck

I didn't read the whole thread, but have you replaced the cap, rotor, wires, and coil? Mine was behaving the same way. Found that the ignition wire from the coil to the cap at the cap was heavily corroded causing intemittent spark.

Also, a coil going south can show that the car is getting spark initially, but weakens quickly to where the car won't run.

Hope this helps,

Chuck

hot-J

did you try cleaning all the engine and starter grounds with sandpaper?

Mark-87-951

Ignition wires, cap and rotor were done last year and still in good shape. How can I check the coil?

Ive replaced both the DME and KLR and still no start. The tach needle shakes a bit but that's it. My factory boost gauge, which hasnt worked for a long time now, didnt move either. I'm thinking the wiring to the gauges is bad somewhere and I need to pull the gauge cluster.

Dr. Dynamics

Give the cap & rotor a double check...

Mine had the small rotor screw fly away to God Knows Were and that had the car garaged for a couple of months.

Questions
At what point did your neighbor verify spark...on the coil output or on a spark plug itself?

Does anybody know if the oil level switch on the crankcase causes a safe shutdown of the car?

Mark-87-951

I'll check that, but the car has started a few times through out all of this, when the tach would start working for some reason. Since the boost gauge also doesnt work, even after changing the dme and klr I'm thinking something at the gauge cluster is messed up.

Mark-87-951

Ok, more data

Grounds under the dash drivers side look fine.
Nothing obvious at the gauge cluster, though all the connectors had at least one lever already broke
I tested the coil per clarke's garage
With the ignition in the on position the reading took forever to just get up to 2 volts
The primary coil resistance was 0.6 to 0.8
The secondary coil resistance at most was 1800 and kept descending from there.

I'm thinking that my coil is shot. As for my gauges, my tach has worked a few times throughout this but my boost gauge hasnt worked for a long time before this no start problem. The clear line to the klr doesnt looked clogged at all and the boost gauge doesnt got to 1 when the ignition is turned on. So, perhaps my gauge cluster is screwed up and the coil is preventing starting??