I dont have them in the brackets right now. How hard was it to replace the ref. sensors?

 

Ok, I tried jumping per Clarke's Garage. Problem is I dont think I can get the spade connectors to make good contact. Now that I have my attention on that area, I'm hearing a clicking sound from the alarm module when I turn the ignition on. Same sound I heard before, when I actually used the alarm, and would forget to turn it off before opening a door. So, it seems to me the alarm is a problem but I'm having trouble bypassing. Any suggestions?

 

update

I pulled the jumper wires as they seemed to be doing no good at all and for grins and giggles just tried starting it again. After a few tries it started up. I turned it off and each time it started up again. I dont hear a sound from the alarm module now either.

So, how can I permanently bypass the factory alarm? I was thinking just permanently attach the jumpers per clarkes garage but I had no luck at all with that. I even tried pushing the spade connectors in the other end of the module connector and leaving it unattached to the alarm module.

Any ideas? I would like to make the care reliable, starting wise. As it is, I dont trust it enough to even drive to work but fortunately I can walk that distance easily enough.

 

Hello. Try this one:https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=factory+alarm

Make sure you do not drain the battery, i did...

 

Interesting. That sounds like leave the connectors disconnected from the module, which makes more sense than the pic at clarke's garage. I'll give it a shot.

 

and to make matters more irritatiing, some *@*U!*! hit my parked car saturday night hard enough to push it off the street on to the grass somewhat. Didnt bother to leave a note. Dented the driver's side rear fender very low just ahead of the side marker. Wheel and tire look fine and the body doesnt appear to be cocked so hopefully the frame and suspension are ok.

So, park on one side of my building, get broken into. Park on the other side, so I can see my car from my window and some jerk hits it. I hate this area.

 

Ok, successfully bypassed the alarm. The car wouldnt start for awhile but eventually did. I turned it off a few times and it restarted fine each time. I'll see what happens after it sits for awhile and hopefully this is the fix.

 

ARrggghgh!! Back to not starting this morning!

 

sounds odd but worth the information. My car had the same problems for about a year. I finally figure out that it was the ignition chip. I had a guru chip and the chip worked intermitantly. Ever since going back to the stock ignition chip never had a problem again.

 

hmm, I have huntley chips. I'm going to check the resistance of the sensors on the weekend and perhaps the fuel pump contacts and grounds. Ive had the chips for some years now.

 

Ok, tested the resistance. I'm not experienced with a multitester but followed some instructions. Set it to ohms function and 2000k. My readings were hardly anything and nowhere near the values at Clarke's garage for either sensor. Going to order both soon unless someone thinks I've made a mistake. Hopefully replacing them isnt too bad, though I'll put some tape over that view hole in the top to avoid dropping stuff in the flywheel area.

 

Your ohm range was way too high. The sensors are around 1K and since you got a reading, I bet they are OK. Now, the spacing of the sensor is critical, it determines the voltage of the pulse. The only way to check it in the car is with a scope

 

hmm, dopey me. I'll check again at a lower setting. The readings were somewhat erratic also.

 

Check it between pins 1 and 2. Pin 3 is the ground connection for the shield on the wire.

 

Well now that I'm checking correctly I got about 975 for a reading, which is within range. Car still wont start and the tach needle doesnt move. I looked at the connector for the fuel pump. That's under the hatch carpet offest from the center right? Looked ok, though I couldnt figure out how to remove the cap on the connector, without breaking it, to get a better look.

So, what else could be the problem? I've read a cold solder joint in the DME can cause this. How hard is that to check? I've switched out the chips so I've gotten in there before, but how hard is it to find the joint causing the problem?