Lindsey Boost Enhancer
#1
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From: Jackson, MS
Lindsey Boost Enhancer
I am going to remvove intake and clean up and would like to delete CV, the discription of this thing says i can ajust between 0-20 psi, why can i just use this as an MBC and get rid of CV
#2
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Originally Posted by mortymower
I am going to remvove intake and clean up and would like to delete CV, the discription of this thing says i can ajust between 0-20 psi, why can i just use this as an MBC and get rid of CV
I rather use the Accuboost instead of the LBE.
The AccuBoost Controller has the following features:
* Fully Adjustable from 0-30psi
* Boost Enhancement built-in
* Boost Spike protection built-in
* Quick Boost adjustment in seconds WITHOUT hand tools
* Over-Boost protection - Fail Safe System built-in
* Designed using the latest 3-D Flow Modeling for optimum flow properties
* Extra light weight mechanism for ultra quick response
* All metal construction for excellent durability
* Full Installation kit and instructions
* Limited Lifetime Warranty
#3
Temprarily Banned per IB
The thing I like about the LBE is that it provides no signal to the wastegate until the desired boost level is reached. From factory it is set at 10psi, which doesn't mean you will max at 10psi, it means it will not open at all before 10psi giving you a quicker spoolup. I have heard other people complain of spikes with it, but I never experienced it. As for adjusting it on the fly I always found that pretty easy, just carry an adustable wrench, loosen the lock nut, then take out the banjo bold and twist the whole bottom end of it. Never saw it as that big of a deal. I think if I were to go to a **** type controller I would go for one I could mount inside the car for dial on demand boost levels.
Regards,
Russell
Regards,
Russell
#4
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I would not use either of these to control my boost. Get a real pressure regulator like an MBC not just a spring operated check valve like the LBE or Reliaboost. Again, Just my opinion. Boost is pretty important to control so I wouldn't skimp on the part that controls it.
#5
Temprarily Banned per IB
Originally Posted by RKD in OKC
I would not use either of these to control my boost. Get a real pressure regulator like an MBC not just a spring operated check valve like the LBE or Reliaboost. Again, Just my opinion. Boost is pretty important to control so I wouldn't skimp on the part that controls it.
#6
My accuboost never worked worth a damn. I put back on my LBE and it worked fine. I was extrememly disappointed that they didn't just send me a new one. They told me to do this and do that to fix it. In fairness, if i demanded they give me one that works they probably would have, but i like service like this..."oh, sorry, you replaced your LBE with our product and it's defective, we will ship you one immdiately", rather than telling me to take time to try to fix their defective unit.
#7
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I don't know but I had a reliaboost before and now I have an accuboost and my boost comes hard and strong 19psi all the way to redline. But it's your choice.
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#9
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Originally Posted by AL951
Hey Luis,
what is the diffrences bettween a reliaboost and accuboost?
Regards,
AL
what is the diffrences bettween a reliaboost and accuboost?
Regards,
AL
link; http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/pr...roducts_id=591
Accubost you can do the adjustments without tools & better design see pic # 2
Link; http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/pr...roducts_id=590
#11
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Those boost controllers use a seat that is held closed by a spring. The pressure against the seat and spring opens the valve. That is how a check valve operates.
The boost controller similar to the black **** ones have a diaphragm assembly that operates the seat. The pressure against the diaphragm and spring open the seat.
The difference is that check valve types require the upstream pressure to be higher than the downstream pressure to remain open where black **** types operate based solely on the upstream pressure.
Ideally, if you are replacing the CV you need a device that vents the wastegate signal until the boost reaches the set point, then sends the boost pressure to open the wastgate. Once the boost pressure drops below the set point it would then vent the wastegate signal to close it. That's what regulators do.
The LBE is designed to work WITH the CV and works because the CV operates like a regulator in venting the wastegate signal.
The boost controller similar to the black **** ones have a diaphragm assembly that operates the seat. The pressure against the diaphragm and spring open the seat.
The difference is that check valve types require the upstream pressure to be higher than the downstream pressure to remain open where black **** types operate based solely on the upstream pressure.
Ideally, if you are replacing the CV you need a device that vents the wastegate signal until the boost reaches the set point, then sends the boost pressure to open the wastgate. Once the boost pressure drops below the set point it would then vent the wastegate signal to close it. That's what regulators do.
The LBE is designed to work WITH the CV and works because the CV operates like a regulator in venting the wastegate signal.
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From: St. Paul, MN (formerly San Francisco)
Originally Posted by RKD in OKC
Those boost controllers use a seat that is held closed by a spring. The pressure against the seat and spring opens the valve. That is how a check valve operates.
The boost controller similar to the black **** ones have a diaphragm assembly that operates the seat. The pressure against the diaphragm and spring open the seat.
The difference is that check valve types require the upstream pressure to be higher than the downstream pressure to remain open where black **** types operate based solely on the upstream pressure.
Ideally, if you are replacing the CV you need a device that vents the wastegate signal until the boost reaches the set point, then sends the boost pressure to open the wastgate. Once the boost pressure drops below the set point it would then vent the wastegate signal to close it. That's what regulators do.
The LBE is designed to work WITH the CV and works because the CV operates like a regulator in venting the wastegate signal.
The boost controller similar to the black **** ones have a diaphragm assembly that operates the seat. The pressure against the diaphragm and spring open the seat.
The difference is that check valve types require the upstream pressure to be higher than the downstream pressure to remain open where black **** types operate based solely on the upstream pressure.
Ideally, if you are replacing the CV you need a device that vents the wastegate signal until the boost reaches the set point, then sends the boost pressure to open the wastgate. Once the boost pressure drops below the set point it would then vent the wastegate signal to close it. That's what regulators do.
The LBE is designed to work WITH the CV and works because the CV operates like a regulator in venting the wastegate signal.
Also, will the Lindsey (or another company's) MBC work with the stock single-port wastegate? I have my intake off right now doing the venturi delete and I just took out the CV as well. I'd like to replace it with a device that will work fine with my stock single-port waste gate for a few months until I've got a nice job and then upgrade to the Tial 38mm & 3" exhaust. Advice? Thanks all!
#14
Originally Posted by Blueman33
for me the difference was that one works.
#15
Ideally, if you are replacing the CV you need a device that vents the wastegate signal until the boost reaches the set point, then sends the boost pressure to open the wastgate. Once the boost pressure drops below the set point it would then vent the wastegate signal to close it. That's what regulators do.