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Went back to the dyno today....

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Old 12-28-2006, 07:29 PM
  #286  
333pg333
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So can we 'safely' assume that up to 500rwhp the stock studs and a cometic h/g are ok?
Old 12-28-2006, 08:40 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by special tool
And since I am feeling generous with the info today......

The lift initiates on the compression stroke, NOOOOOOOT the combustion stroke.
This is evidenced by the EXACT correspondance of intake manifold pressure to coolant jacket pressure (yes, I tested in live conditions) and the subsequent RELEASE of pressure on the downstroke.

Don't say I never told ya nothin'.....
I don't doubt the conclusion (after all, the piston is moving up and the spark plug is lighthing the flame -- where's the pressure to go?), but I'm not sure I follow the evidence. The valves are closed on the compression stroke, so if the pressure of a given cylinder's compression stroke is lifting the head, how does that change the intake manifold pressure? Coming back in to the intake through the open valves in the adjacent cylinder? Even so, at any given time, you have one cylinder in each of the 4 strokes, so if you see a rise in cooling jacket pressure, how can you associate it with any particular cylinder (i.e., any given stroke)?
Old 12-28-2006, 08:43 PM
  #288  
Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by 333pg333
So can we 'safely' assume that up to 500rwhp the stock studs and a cometic h/g are ok?
I'd suggest you need a mighty good state of tune to get 500hp out of stock studs. Before I went to Vitesse stuff, I had to use racewares just to get 350 without the head lifting, using Huntley's ARC2/MAF, etc.
Old 12-28-2006, 08:44 PM
  #289  
Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by 944CS
ARP's will screw in, correct?

Raceware are pressed in?
They both screw in to factory stud holes.
Old 12-28-2006, 08:57 PM
  #290  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
I don't doubt the conclusion (after all, the piston is moving up and the spark plug is lighthing the flame -- where's the pressure to go?), but I'm not sure I follow the evidence. The valves are closed on the compression stroke, so if the pressure of a given cylinder's compression stroke is lifting the head, how does that change the intake manifold pressure? Coming back in to the intake through the open valves in the adjacent cylinder? Even so, at any given time, you have one cylinder in each of the 4 strokes, so if you see a rise in cooling jacket pressure, how can you associate it with any particular cylinder (i.e., any given stroke)?

you are overthinking this.
the pressure goes into the water jacket under compression.
the gasket reseals under combustion.

nothing reverts to the intake - I mentioned the intake because I compared its pressure to the water jaket's pressure to be able to relay this fact.
Old 12-28-2006, 09:19 PM
  #291  
mark944turbo
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The statement about the leakage happening on the compression stroke is wrong.

Way more pressure happens during combustion (unless you have preignition), this is where it would leak. If you are making peak pressure on the compression stroke you have messed up ignition timing and are losing lots of power.

Also, there is a power stroke happening in another cylinder for every compression stroke so there is no way to tell which of the 2 is causing the pressure rise in the coolant jacket using the measurements you described.

How did you come to this conclusion?


Edit- thinking about it more, were you able to see which cylinder was leaking afterwards? This might make the arguement more valid, but it is still unreasonable for combustion to reseal a leak.
Old 12-28-2006, 09:35 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by mark944turbo
The statement about the leakage happening on the compression stroke is wrong.

Way more pressure happens during combustion (unless you have preignition), this is where it would leak. If you are making peak pressure on the compression stroke you have messed up ignition timing and are losing lots of power.

Also, there is a power stroke happening in another cylinder for every compression stroke so there is no way to tell which of the 2 is causing the pressure rise in the coolant jacket using the measurements you described.

How did you come to this conclusion?


Edit- thinking about it more, were you able to see which cylinder was leaking afterwards? This might make the arguement more valid, but it is still unreasonable for combustion to reseal a leak.

not wrong - common misconception by those who make assumptions.
like I said - water pressure follows boost , NOT combustion.

yes I know what AND when the leakage.
Old 12-28-2006, 10:01 PM
  #293  
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Maybe the problem you are having is that water pressure follows cylinder pressure, but you cant measure that, but you can measure intake pressure, which is very related, and from there you made a bad assumption.

If you logged crank position and water pressure quick enough, and you knew which cylinder leaked, you would see that the leakage occurs on the combustion stroke.
Old 12-28-2006, 10:35 PM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
I'd suggest you need a mighty good state of tune to get 500hp out of stock studs. Before I went to Vitesse stuff, I had to use racewares just to get 350 without the head lifting, using Huntley's ARC2/MAF, etc.
Is this what most that know would agree with. I'm not doubting Tom but from what I understand, the aftermarket studs require a bit of upkeep that I'd like to avoid if possible. What is involved with the re-torquing or how often does it need to be done?
Thanks
Old 12-28-2006, 10:46 PM
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Just as a note, an increase in boost (or power) has less of an effect on max cylinder pressure than most people realize. It produces more area under the crank position/cylinder pressure curve mostly by extending the length, not the peak value. The primary thing that effects peak pressure is compression ratio.
Old 12-28-2006, 11:09 PM
  #296  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Is this what most that know would agree with. I'm not doubting Tom but from what I understand, the aftermarket studs require a bit of upkeep that I'd like to avoid if possible. What is involved with the re-torquing or how often does it need to be done?
Thanks
Then keep the stock studs, if your heads lifts and coolant goes all over....pull the head and install different studs.

Porsche switched from studs to bolts with the 928 as power increased. Not sure why, just throwing it out there. Some think it was simply to allow the 32V head to be removed without yanking the motor.
Old 12-28-2006, 11:24 PM
  #297  
David Floyd
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I torqued to 85 ft lbs and ARP told me to let sit overnight and then retorque before assembly ( there was no movement ) and no need to dissassemble and retorque after run in.

No problems at all, for some 30k miles, but I don't run any crazy boost like you ST....

Also using an MLS headgasket

Last edited by David Floyd; 12-28-2006 at 11:42 PM.
Old 12-28-2006, 11:33 PM
  #298  
Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by David Floyd
I torqued to 85 ft lbs and ARP told me to let sit overnight and then retorque before assembly ( there was no movement ) and no need to dissassemble and retorque after run in.

No problems at all, for some 30k miles, but I don't run any crazy boost like you ST....
I've always heat cycled my racewares and then retorqued. Only once did I get a nut that needed more torque. Last time, I set them to 90 and did not retorque and all has been fine up to occassional bursts at 24psi.
Old 12-28-2006, 11:41 PM
  #299  
Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by special tool
you are overthinking this.
the pressure goes into the water jacket under compression.
the gasket reseals under combustion.

nothing reverts to the intake - I mentioned the intake because I compared its pressure to the water jaket's pressure to be able to relay this fact.
Sorry, wasn't trying to overthink it (I hate that) -- just trying to understand how "the EXACT correspondance of intake manifold pressure to coolant jacket pressure" evidences that the head is lifting on the compression stroke. Thought I might be missing an insight, but I was probably just reading your post too literally.
Old 12-29-2006, 02:40 AM
  #300  
Laust Pedersen
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Originally Posted by ross255
Can someone tell my why people are torquing to 90ft lb, is this better than doing the porsche method of 20Nm then 90 degree+ 90 degree. Which is best/more accurate.

according to my convertor 90ft lb is 122Nm, the old porsche method was 20Nm, then 50Nm then 90Nm, so its slightly more clamping force.
Porsche’s end-goal is a specific clamping force adequate for the OEM (engine) torque delivery. Their 3-step method is virtually unaffected by thread friction and gets reliably to the desired result if and only if OEM headgasket, studs, nuts and washers are used.

Laust


Quick Reply: Went back to the dyno today....



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