Test Code's
#1
Test Code's
I know bitch bitch bitch!!
Not really. Authority II Stage II Chips. What I have noticed is that when I really push it hard I mean stand on it like turbo ***** it will cut out and drop to .3 BAR and loss of power. As soon as I turn it off and start it back up it goes right back to running normal.
So I read Volume 6 Section 28 of the Shop Manuel and this is a safety. If the car. That black thing with the cover by the friggn brake booster is a plug in. Whith blinking light codes. Ahhhhhhhhhhh! Well, the computer has a memory of what went wrong so when it does this If I plug in the little tool and flip the frigg'n switch it will give me a light code that will point me to the probable cause of the computer.
This is cool though the car Drops boost to no more than .3 bar when this happens and retards the timing 6 degrees. So, I fiddeled with some of the possible causes and took the 951 to the Autobahn. I noticed that if I stood in it 2-5 never and issue almost .9 to full 1 bar boost. 1 gear about .7 Bar boost. with the chips it want to sustain this boost all the way to Red line and on ( I think that is the chip, IDK).
Well, to make a long story short to some stuff apart cleaned it a bit fooled with the knock sensor a bit. Still don't know why it does what it does, I know that I can mash it but Standing on it till red line Might trigger the Safety.
Anybody have a clue?
Thanks
Not really. Authority II Stage II Chips. What I have noticed is that when I really push it hard I mean stand on it like turbo ***** it will cut out and drop to .3 BAR and loss of power. As soon as I turn it off and start it back up it goes right back to running normal.
So I read Volume 6 Section 28 of the Shop Manuel and this is a safety. If the car. That black thing with the cover by the friggn brake booster is a plug in. Whith blinking light codes. Ahhhhhhhhhhh! Well, the computer has a memory of what went wrong so when it does this If I plug in the little tool and flip the frigg'n switch it will give me a light code that will point me to the probable cause of the computer.
This is cool though the car Drops boost to no more than .3 bar when this happens and retards the timing 6 degrees. So, I fiddeled with some of the possible causes and took the 951 to the Autobahn. I noticed that if I stood in it 2-5 never and issue almost .9 to full 1 bar boost. 1 gear about .7 Bar boost. with the chips it want to sustain this boost all the way to Red line and on ( I think that is the chip, IDK).
Well, to make a long story short to some stuff apart cleaned it a bit fooled with the knock sensor a bit. Still don't know why it does what it does, I know that I can mash it but Standing on it till red line Might trigger the Safety.
Anybody have a clue?
Thanks
Last edited by SchnellerUmsetzer; 08-30-2006 at 05:01 AM.
#2
The .3bar you are seeing (actually .2bar) is the "limp home" mode. There is a good chance you are hitting overboost protection. If you think it's knock, fill the tank with high-octane (race) gas and see if it makes a difference...
#3
Porsche tool 9246?
This did not really begin until yesterday when I put some 93 in it but I belive with limited experince it is either vac leak or wastegate.
It is weird it re sets itself as soon as you turn off the car.
This did not really begin until yesterday when I put some 93 in it but I belive with limited experince it is either vac leak or wastegate.
It is weird it re sets itself as soon as you turn off the car.
#4
Originally Posted by SchnellerUmsetzer
Porsche tool 9246?
Originally Posted by SchnellerUmsetzer
It is weird it re sets itself as soon as you turn off the car.
I'm pretty sure that is the nature of overboost protection. may be wrong though.
#6
My welts did that to me at Limerock, in a curve no less. Ended up steering around that next curve lookout out the passenger door instead of the windshield. Then 'limped' to the pits. After the car was shut off for a bit while we were looking for a hose blown off it ran fine. It is the overboost protection, apparently your chips have it. Most aftermarket chips don't use it at all, but some do and I don't know every one that does. I don't remember ever experiencing that with Authority chips though, maybe I just didn't run them hard enough to hit it. It's not something you can turn on or off yourself unfortunately.
Regards,
Russell
Regards,
Russell
#7
Porsche 944 Turbo Work Shop Manuel
Section 28 Page 30 28-30
TEST POINT 12
KNOCK/CHARGING PRESSURE CONTROL
The knock/charging pressure system includes a self-monitoring system, which can output recognized defects with the help of a test adaptor
The output is in the form of a blink code, similar to Morse code.
If a defect has been found, the engine will operate on a safety system (basic charging pressure up to 0.3 BAR overpressure and 6 degrees later ignition), which means a significantly reduced performance.
NOTE:
A defect stored in memory is erased when ignition is switched off. For this reason, the defect must be read out directly after a test drive without switching off the ignition.
There are 2 pictures one where it plugs in just after the Relay Box on the other side of the fire wall and the Tool
The tool is a back cylinder with electrodes on the bottom that plug in to the system. There is a
1 LED Red (blink code)
2 LED Green (lights up when terminals B & C are bridged)
3 Switch for bridging terminals B & C
The part # for the tool is on the side in the picture it is 9246
It goes in to give several “Blink Codes” & the related defect.
I took the car back out after some "twiddling" that is tweaking and Piddeling. What idiots do to a perfectly good car.
It ran fine and boosted well.
Section 28 Page 30 28-30
TEST POINT 12
KNOCK/CHARGING PRESSURE CONTROL
The knock/charging pressure system includes a self-monitoring system, which can output recognized defects with the help of a test adaptor
The output is in the form of a blink code, similar to Morse code.
If a defect has been found, the engine will operate on a safety system (basic charging pressure up to 0.3 BAR overpressure and 6 degrees later ignition), which means a significantly reduced performance.
NOTE:
A defect stored in memory is erased when ignition is switched off. For this reason, the defect must be read out directly after a test drive without switching off the ignition.
There are 2 pictures one where it plugs in just after the Relay Box on the other side of the fire wall and the Tool
The tool is a back cylinder with electrodes on the bottom that plug in to the system. There is a
1 LED Red (blink code)
2 LED Green (lights up when terminals B & C are bridged)
3 Switch for bridging terminals B & C
The part # for the tool is on the side in the picture it is 9246
It goes in to give several “Blink Codes” & the related defect.
I took the car back out after some "twiddling" that is tweaking and Piddeling. What idiots do to a perfectly good car.
It ran fine and boosted well.
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#8
Well I have had not luck finding this Porsche tool "Special Tool" 9246 but my quest is not over. I will have to talk to the Porsche Wrench at Georg Ritterberger Porsche in Kiserslautern, GMbH!
#10
Thanks.
Before I FRY my DME or KLR I got one BIG IMPORTANT QUESTION.
1. I assume, since not shown in the Lindsey discription, that the thicker RED 12 Guage wire, not part of the code detector or describe anywhere but still pluged in to the circut, is "HOT" and runs from the battery directly?
I thought you Navy guys were up to something down there. Now I know!
Before I FRY my DME or KLR I got one BIG IMPORTANT QUESTION.
1. I assume, since not shown in the Lindsey discription, that the thicker RED 12 Guage wire, not part of the code detector or describe anywhere but still pluged in to the circut, is "HOT" and runs from the battery directly?
I thought you Navy guys were up to something down there. Now I know!
#11
Originally Posted by SchnellerUmsetzer
Thanks.
Before I FRY my DME or KLR I got one BIG IMPORTANT QUESTION.
1. I assume, since not shown in the Lindsey discription, that the thicker RED 12 Guage wire, not part of the code detector or describe anywhere but still pluged in to the circut, is "HOT" and runs from the battery directly?
I thought you Navy guys were up to something down there. Now I know!
Before I FRY my DME or KLR I got one BIG IMPORTANT QUESTION.
1. I assume, since not shown in the Lindsey discription, that the thicker RED 12 Guage wire, not part of the code detector or describe anywhere but still pluged in to the circut, is "HOT" and runs from the battery directly?
I thought you Navy guys were up to something down there. Now I know!
#13
Well it did it again this morning. I will take a wild guess and say it is the cycling valve or Waste gate. Just before it kick the boost will fluxuate, like back and forth and then a dramatic power loss.
I will have to look around to see if I can find a LED like that. Remember, there are not Radio Shacks local here in Germany, but I am forsure the is a LED like that.
I will have to look around to see if I can find a LED like that. Remember, there are not Radio Shacks local here in Germany, but I am forsure the is a LED like that.
#14
Originally Posted by SchnellerUmsetzer
Well I have had not luck finding this Porsche tool "Special Tool" 9246 but my quest is not over.
#15
Knock on wood, pray to the goat, Cross my heart/fingers, do a dance around a bon fire and chant crazy ****.
I think I fixed it. I took apart the entire VAC system+inter cooler pipes/Intake. cleaned it and installed a lindsey VAC kit.
Took it out it ran great I had to set the idel down a bit. Something changed. It Boosted right and ran great!!!!!!!!1111
Oh Gosh Danggggggggggg I hope it is right
I think I fixed it. I took apart the entire VAC system+inter cooler pipes/Intake. cleaned it and installed a lindsey VAC kit.
Took it out it ran great I had to set the idel down a bit. Something changed. It Boosted right and ran great!!!!!!!!1111
Oh Gosh Danggggggggggg I hope it is right