i wouldnt go a litre over full on 951s. 951 have pretty good baffling from the factory. they dont have a problem with stavation on cornering. we would know, wouldnt we patrick

 

I run 20W-50 Royal Purple. 3.5 Bar idle hot.
And I have a moderate rear main seal. When I do the Tranny that will be fixed.

 

Thanks for the responses.

My motor has 93k on it. I pulled the pan and I updated the baffeling to '89 spec and I added the Lindsey racing oil ban hinge gate and the oil pick up tube ring update.

I was planning on running the oil level slightly (1/2 quart) higher for the track day. I'll drain a little oil out of the car and take it for a run to see if I was having foaming & pick up issues with the crank.

Personally, to me I think that due to the lower viscosity, the Castrol will flow better and not build up as much pressure.

 

I did.

After a year or so, it dawned on me to try dino oil again. Switched to Max Life 20-50, and leaks went away.

 

Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w50 no leaks an great pressure.Its also the purest synthetic you can get

 

Actually, Valvoline VR1 is not a synthetic but is certainly a Top Tier group 3 oil. Valvoline does make a full synthethic racing oil that is not intended for street use and can be found at NAPA. http://www.valvoline.com/racing/
Synthetics are all Group 4 and 5 oils. Group 4 is considered PAO's and Group 5 is Ester based oils like Redline and Motul.
http://www.performanceoiltechnology....lubricants.htm
Valvoline does have outstanding Flash point properties for a Group 3 though with their 20w-50 topping off at 478F! and their 50w and 60w oils at 489F! Most standard oils and even semi-synthetic oils fall short of this. I plan on running the VR1 20w-50 next time I need an oil change in my turbo.

 

I keep hearing about the Valvoline Synthetic 20/50 oil. Eospeed and Charlie944 confused me. I hope ski chimes in here as I believe he uses the Valvo Syn. What is it called exactly on the bottle and where to get it. Having trouble finding it...thanks

 

Yea sorry, should have been more spec. It was Dyno oils I was refering too.

I personally used to use Mobil 1 20w50 fully synth. I just changed to Valv. fully synth. 20w50. I'm happy with is thus far

 

amsoil 20-50 race stuff

 

To be honest I would use a full-synthetic in my turbo 944 but the car consumes more oil than I would like and at $5-7 a quart and a 8qt oiling system to boot I choose to run a semi-syn or great group 3 (dino) such at the Valvoline VR1 or Kendall GT-1 20w-50 oil to save my pocket book some. In my 84' NA which has 225,000 miles and does not burn a drop nor leaks it I run Amsoil Series 2000 20w-50 Racing oil because I almost never have to add any. IIRC Ski changes his Valvoline VR1 dino 20w-50 after every race weekend because it is much cheaper than dumping out a synthetic after each race weekend and because the VR1 gives him the protection, pressure, and I am guessing oil volume he needs.

Joe, if I were you in the NV heat and with all the $$ you have in your Powerhaus engine I would stick with a full synthetic. Just my $.02 I am 99% sure Ski uses the VR1 Valvoline which is not a synthetic. But yes Valvoline does make a couple full synthetics: the RACE ONLY version available at NAPA and the SynPower(light gold colored bottle and way more common the the race only version) for passenger cars. I hope this helps clear up any confusion.