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I'm at the End of the Line here: Oil Pressure, again.

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Old 04-08-2006 | 03:05 PM
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Ok. Thanks for the replies.

Running 30w dino oil. 1 PC brand new 86 ORPV. That is the ONLY one that will fit in the 86 block I have. The reason the 86 OPRV is specific to the 86 is because of the block. I do not think it has anything to do with the oil cooler housings. I looked at them both, they looked the same to me. But I will soon know for sure.

The oil pressure sender and gauge were working fine before the rebuild.

And yes, Tom, the pump is sealed to the block, lol.

I think the valve in the head has nothing to do with this. I can't even build pressure up, something before the pressure sender.

I'm going to go try some stuff. Thanks again guys.
Old 04-08-2006 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
The 86 OPRV will not work in an 87 housing...different lengths and diameters on the OPRV. They need to match for sure. I think finding an 86 housing would be cheaper than sourcing an 87 OPRV. Hope you find your problem.
KuHL, I agree the 86 OPRV will not work in an 87 block, but I "think" an 86 OPRV will work with an 87 housing on an 86 block. I researched this a while back, and learned that there were a number of "casting numbers" for the housings -- the numbers stamped and visible on the part (the later style has a threaded bolt hole for the updated oil cooler line bracket). The casting numbers did not coincide with model years however. I have both the early and late sytle housings in my garage, and I could find no measurable differences in the port openings for the OPRVs -- same threads, depths, diameter, etc. The diameter in the block is different for sure though. I've never actually tried it, but from everything I could tell, it should work. I've been proven wrong before though, often. --tom
Old 04-08-2006 | 07:25 PM
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Not that the sender is it, but on Rhobs car, as we were turning it over it would not do anything on the gauge, and we primed the oil pump - did you prime the pump; put oil in the hole closest to the engine, turn over backwards by hand 3-4 times as you fill this, 2 quarts(5 in the pan already on dry engine), install oil filter, pull DME relay, turn over 3-4 times for 5 seconds each time, install relay and start.

When we checked the wiring, one of the tips feel off in our hand but it wired up just fine the first time.

1. re- seat the OPRV
2. is the oil circulating; when you start is it going down on the dip stick(if you have a new filter installed, when it was first fired up?)
3. cheap mechanical gauge hooked up to some fuel line and brass hose barb connections. YOu can cross over some metric or BSP threads below 1 inch so you might see if that will work without damaging the housing.

Tom, just checked in the garage, you are correct. The 86 block has the bushing and the OPRV is shorter, 87 block has no bushing and OPRV is longer.
Old 04-09-2006 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
KuHL, I agree the 86 OPRV will not work in an 87 block, but I "think" an 86 OPRV will work with an 87 housing on an 86 block. I researched this a while back, and learned that there were a number of "casting numbers" for the housings -- the numbers stamped and visible on the part (the later style has a threaded bolt hole for the updated oil cooler line bracket). The casting numbers did not coincide with model years however. I have both the early and late sytle housings in my garage, and I could find no measurable differences in the port openings for the OPRVs -- same threads, depths, diameter, etc. The diameter in the block is different for sure though. I've never actually tried it, but from everything I could tell, it should work. I've been proven wrong before though, often. --tom
This is what I'm thinking.
Old 04-09-2006 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Ski
Tom, just checked in the garage, you are correct. The 86 block has the bushing and the OPRV is shorter, 87 block has no bushing and OPRV is longer.
Wait, so this is block differences. Doesn't matter if you swap the housing, just the OPRV and block right?
Old 04-09-2006 | 01:42 PM
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One more thing, I was in the process of removing the pressure sending last night and when I touched the unit, one of the wires fell off. I thought that was interesting. I'm going to get a mechanical gauge on it...just trying to figure out how to do it.
Old 04-09-2006 | 02:06 PM
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housing is the same.
Old 04-09-2006 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ski
housing is the same.
Agreed.

It's worth noting thought that the later casting has a threaded boss for the updated oil line bracket. (Early cars had no braket on the oil line and no threaded boss in the housing.)
Old 04-09-2006 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 9fitty1
One more thing, I was in the process of removing the pressure sending last night and when I touched the unit, one of the wires fell off. I thought that was interesting. I'm going to get a mechanical gauge on it...just trying to figure out how to do it.
Sounds like a good place to start.
Old 04-09-2006 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 9fitty1
Doesn't matter if you swap the housing, just the OPRV and block right?
Right.
Old 04-09-2006 | 04:44 PM
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When you mounted the housing did you use the 'specific tool' to line up the housing? Your symtoms indicate you probably have it aligned but I thought I would ask. Also, given the electrical readings/problems that are caused by bad grounds, do you still have the original grounds or have you updated?

I'm pretty sure I have a '86 housing or two if you need one.
Old 04-09-2006 | 08:30 PM
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1 bar of oil pressure when the engine oil is hot is normal. Oil pressure will then go up when you hit the gas.
Old 04-09-2006 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by docwyte
1 bar of oil pressure when the engine oil is hot is normal. Oil pressure will then go up when you hit the gas.
I assume you mean 1 bar at idle when hot?

Even still, I think 1 bar at hot idle is way too low, anything below 2 bar at idle would get me a little worried.
Old 04-09-2006 | 10:13 PM
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1 bar at idle when hot is totally normal. Not only for a 951, but also for practically any other car. My 16v GTI had it, as well as my G60 GTI, as well as my VR6 corrado, VR6 GTI, A4 quattro, S4 quattro, etc, etc, etc.

Stop freaking, all is well!
Old 04-09-2006 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by docwyte
1 bar at idle when hot is totally normal. Not only for a 951, but also for practically any other car. My 16v GTI had it, as well as my G60 GTI, as well as my VR6 corrado, VR6 GTI, A4 quattro, S4 quattro, etc, etc, etc.

Stop freaking, all is well!
1 Bar at idle is NOT normal on a 951. I would go as far to say that below 2 bar at idle is too low. My car before I did the rebuild had a perfect 5 bar when starting cold. Then at idle it would be at 3 bar and no less...ever. No matter how hot. I ran 20w 50 in summers.

Well today was another lovely day. I pulled the oil cooler housing and realigned it. When I pulled the OPRV out the o ring on the end stayed in the hole and ended up falling down into the oil pan because I never found it anywhere...awesome. I put another one on and put it all back together....

....low oil pressure again. Same deal, didn't change anything. I also fixed the oil pressure sending unit wires. Next thing I am doing is a mechanical gauge. Anyone have an old 3 piece OPRV they are not using and want to send me? I'm going to tap it for a fitting for my gauge. Or is there another way to do it?

Also checked the crank bolt...fine.

So tonight I am going to pick up an 86 cooler housing (Thanks evil 944t) in Oswego and I guess I will try it? Or I will measure it first. I sure as hell don't feel like doing that housing again but I gotta do what I gotta do, I guess.

Last guess if the gauge turns out to be working fine is the pickup is cracked, or maybe that valve in the head is messed up. Any suggestions with that?

Anyone wanna buy my car? LOL


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