DDP

Yeah, I honestly think that alignment tool is a complete joke. All one has to do is tighten the OPRV first and done. Aligned.

dganapol

I understand you have to re-do (do) the loctite on the girdle. But did you also loctite the oil pump? Just me $.02

david 87 951 burg

jacklet

remove the elect sensor and thread in an adaptor, i think i still have one(made a test set-up for just such occasions) if you can't find one let me know. i'll loan you my test rig

MichelleJD

And certainly isn't normal on THAT engine. Derek bought that engine from me and it never fell below 2.5 bar at idle before the rebuild. Something's definitely up.

DDP

Yeah, but I would know if I didn't because it would leak.

DDP

Thanks. I will let you know.

Mike B

Just a thought. Good luck with it.

JDeitz951

Did you replace the o-ring seal at the top of the oil pickup tube where it goes into the girdle. My looked in good condition but in fact it had shrunk to much smaller than the new one.

DDP

Yup, I replaced it when I first did the motor rebuild and then when I had it back apart again it was still perfect and sealed just as well as the first time.

DDP

I think I have narrowed it down to a cracked pickup. The oil cooler housing are the same for sure. I just put in a thicker oil to see what happened. I figured with a cracked pickup the oil pressure would increase with thicker oil. But I started it and the pressue was worse. Which confused me but...if you think about drinking out of a straw (pickup) in a cup of water(thin oil). If the straw (pickup) is cracked and you may get some water (thin oil) up the straw (pickup). But if you have a shake (thick oil) not much of it will make it up the straw (pickup). Make sense? Wed I will be pulling the pan....again. Thanks for the advice so far.

MichelleJD

Ouch.

F18Rep

OK, I think you guys are all tuned into this but just to review the obvious, and BTW THE most common re-assembly error... Derek...you said you checked the crank bolt, I assume that means you checked its torque. But if the PS pulley is not mounted in the right sequence the amount of torque won't matter. Just humor me and do one quick check, when the engine is running, look down at the crank's power steering pulley. Is it wobbling or is it true? Wobbling, problem found. True, OK I'l shut up & go back to sleep. ...Bruce

DDP

I don't care how ridiculous you think your thoughts may be. I want to hear everything. Anything helps. Not sure how you could screw that up though? If you put the washer on backwards? But then how would you get a good torque on the bolt?

F18Rep

Its not about the washer being on backwards. Here's the short version of how I tripped over this problem...Its kinda hard to explain



Above (left) you can see how the crankshaft extends through the camshaft drive gear. But when you first place the gear on the crank it seldom will settle into this position (without first running in the crankbolt to seat the gear). My problem occurred when I tried to seat both the balance gear and mount the PS pulley at once. I slipped them together on the crankshaft and "ran-in" the bolt. It looked OK but what I didn't notice was that the PS pulley had gotten cocked (not centered) & and all of the bolt pressure was then placed on the forward edge of the crankshaft (instead of on the face of the crankshaft drive gear). This prevented the pressure from being applied to the oil pump drive sleeve, which resulted in no oil pressure (some have reported intermittent oil pressure with this problem). When this happens a half-moon shaped indentation is made around the hole of the PS pulley. Sometimes this indentation is severe & and requires a new pulley. On a running engine, you'll know this is the problem because the pulley will wobble. With this problem corrected, I had oil pressure and was finally able to bring the engine up to temp.

If you're experiencing oil pressure problems - it only takes a minute to look for "the wobble" - and its an easy fix too! ....Bruce

DDP

Will do, thanks!