Ski

jwl did his with a 3L crank, Carrillo rods, tom C pistons that he had recoated with Swains gold coat and PC9 skirt coating. NO dyno yet, but my butt dyno from driving it: it's damn fast and pulls like a train!

MarkRobinson

Chris Carroll (left PH about 4 years ago), at www.turbokraft.com I'm SURE still has contacts for getting stroker parts & such: he's the man for sure! A real wealth of knowledge & super-nice/ethical guy.

Tom M'Guinn

Scott Gomes helped me out of jamb on a project gone wrong. I'd recommend him to anyone. www.area951.com

If I were starting from scratch, however, I'd be very tempted by that nifty sleeve system Chris White developed.

ehall

There ya go. Scott Gomes. He and Chris are some of our last remaining pros around the board. And those sleeves are fricken awesome.

jturbo

Is it necessary to "Prep" the block in some way when doing the 2.8 Liter conversion?

I heard that when you sleeve the aluminum block it never works very well, sleeves comming loose, etc.

Any experiences?

David Floyd

Done correctly you will have no problems, I have dry sleeves head holds them in place, can't come loose.

The Darton Mid-Sleeve that Chris does is brand new tech very nice stuff

420WHP944

I know you have to grind very small amounts of the block to give the 3.0 ltr crankshaft the required clearance.

Ski

not if you use Carrillo or Pauter rods, its the stock rods not the crankshaft that cause the interference.. Stock rods, yes you will have to machine the block and grind the front rod studs to keep from hitting the oil pan - this is why most use custom rods.

420WHP944

I've got a 2.8 with 3.0 crank, pauter rods and mahle pistons. I'm almost sure the pauter rods are of stock length and there was some small amount of clearancing required on the block? .... very little but some grinding done nonetheless..

Tom M'Guinn

I opted for Carrillo rods (stock length) to avoid the clearance issue.

DDP

Your sleeves groated?

Chris White

Grouting is an option – but not as important for the MID set up since it is structurally supported at the top. Grouting is used to add some structural support to the free standing cylinders in an effort to stop them from moving around at the top. A non issue with the MIDs.
Grouting a dry sleeve engine can aid in supporting the cylinders – a significant amount of the original alusil material is removed - this can actually add to the cylinder movement under load.

Chris White

PS – the MID sleeves are limited to 104mm for the 2.5 and 106mm for the 3.0. I am not a real fan of the larger bores than this – I believe that you keeping the cylinder wall thickness up gives a more robust block – you can safely run higher boost in a all bore 2.7 vs an all bore 2.8 – the end power out put will be the same because you can run more boost on the 2.7

jturbo

Chris,

How much do you charge to "prep" the block with the Darton Mid-Sleeve. How are these sleeves for steet used cars?

Also, do you recommend or offer any other block prep services?

Chris White

The ‘standard’ job is to sleeve your block with the MID sleeves, bore and hone the b lock to fit Custom JE pistons. New wrist pins and Total Seal rings – ready for your assembly. $2750. This includes block cleaning and decking the surface, you get it back ready to assemble.

I also offer other services such as complete balancing, assembly of bottom ends or complete engines, head work, and engine management systems.

The only difference between race and street prep (for the block) is the piston to wall clearance.

Chris White

David Floyd

Nope,

Wish I had the Mid-sleeve option a few years ago