Clutch group buy?
04-01-2006, 06:47 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by 9fitty1
So what exactly is the difference between the feel of a stock clutch and this one? -PPL with experience... I am interested but I don't want a stall or burn out type clutch if you know what I mean.
You also need to rev match on downshifts or you get chatter.
Stage 2 KEP has firm pedal which I like.
04-21-2006, 12:11 AM
#33
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Well, here is the story. I ended up keeping the 930 clutch and the kep Stg I , my mechanic installed the six puck sprung ez-lock ceramic bronze clutch from "clutch net" but there was no modulation, it’s non existent. You need to rev the engine above 1300rpms in order to take off and once it bites it bites, obviously is not a desirable unit for a daily driver, especially in Los Angeles where there is so much gridlock. The six puck is a Racing clutch it could be use in the street but not in a heavy stop and go conditions, bumper to bumper traffic like in So.California, maybe it’s good for guys like special tool who lives in the middle of nowhere, where gridlock means a deer crossing the hwy, and your closest neighbor is eight miles away, but no here. So I had my mechanic install the 930 clutch instead and I love it, is 9mm thick vs. 8.1 for the stock and it has more surface than the stock and cup clutch, also it is cheaper. Combined with the Kep stg I, it does not skip or slip, it grabs right away and it has excellent modulation, like the one you need if you are going in heavy traffic and have to stop in the middle of a hill. My vote is for the kep stg I and the 930 clutch. If you are interested in this setup call Jason at Paragon his Customer service is great. The e-z lock six puck ceramic bronze clutch it is a stronger unit, it probably can handle 1000hp, is good for racing , but not suitable for daily commute in heavy traffic.
TIA
Lart
TIA
Lart
04-21-2006, 12:16 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by lart951
Well, here is the story. I ended up keeping the 930 clutch and the kep Stg I , my mechanic installed the six puck sprung ez-lock ceramic bronze clutch from "clutch net" but there was no modulation, it’s non existent. You need to rev the engine above 1300rpms in order to take off and once it bites it bites, obviously is not a desirable unit for a daily driver, especially in Los Angeles where there is so much gridlock. The six puck is a Racing clutch it could be use in the street but not in a heavy stop and go conditions, bumper to bumper traffic like in So.California, maybe it’s good for guys like special tool who lives in the middle of nowhere, where gridlock means a deer crossing the hwy, and your closest neighbor is eight miles away, but no here. So I had my mechanic install the 930 clutch instead and I love it, is 9mm thick vs. 8.1 for the stock and it has more surface than the stock and cup clutch, also it is cheaper. Combined with the Kep stg I, it does not skip or slip, it grabs right away and it has excellent modulation, like the one you need if you are going in heavy traffic and have to stop in the middle of a hill. My vote is for the kep stg I and the 930 clutch. If you are interested in this setup call Jason at Paragon his Customer service is great. The e-z lock six puck ceramic bronze clutch it is a stronger unit, it probably can handle 1000hp, is good for racing , but not suitable for daily commute in heavy traffic.
TIA
Lart
TIA
Lart
see post #12 & 31
04-21-2006, 12:22 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by David Floyd
Wus !!!!! see post #12 & 31
see post #12 & 31 
04-21-2006, 12:36 AM
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Lart, thanks for the update. Are you using a stock flywheel? I'm planning to install the same setup this fall with a Fidanza. Has anybody tried this combo?
04-21-2006, 12:41 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by 951Boost
Lart, thanks for the update. Are you using a stock flywheel? I'm planning to install the same setup this fall with a Fidanza. Has anybody tried this combo?
Yes, I have the stock flywheel. The kep pp and the 930 clutch is firm and pleasant to drive, you will enjoy it.
04-21-2006, 01:25 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by Jason @ Paragon Products
Just a bit of clarification, the 930 disc definately has more friction area than the 951 disc. The width of the friction material on the 951 disc is 38mm and on the 930 disc 43mm. When you lay the discs on the pressure plate the 930 disc exactly matches the corresponding surface on the pressure plate where the 951 disc is smaller. The 930 disc also has more dampening springs (6) than the 951 disc (4). Looking at the two there is no doubt the 930 unit is a beefier disc. We have had no problems using this disc with the KEP or stock pressure plate on cars that are in good mechanical condition. We've also spoken with KEP about this matter and had to remind them that the 951 doesn't use a rubber center disc and that the 930 disc is 1mm thicker...not 1mm thinner as they seemed to be confused. ANYWAY, it's worked well so we offer it as an option. The best part of all of this is that the 930 disc is less expensive...it doesn't normally work this way.
So, now we have a very slightly used 930 disc and KEP Stage II pressure plate. When I say slightly used I'm guessing the car never rolled once installed. Quite frankly you probably can't tell by looking at the items that they've been used but we can't sell them as new. SOOO, I have a 930 disc for $249 and a KEP Stage II pressure plate for $540 which amounts to a 10% discount. Give me a call at 800-200-9366 if you're interested.
Thanks!
So, now we have a very slightly used 930 disc and KEP Stage II pressure plate. When I say slightly used I'm guessing the car never rolled once installed. Quite frankly you probably can't tell by looking at the items that they've been used but we can't sell them as new. SOOO, I have a 930 disc for $249 and a KEP Stage II pressure plate for $540 which amounts to a 10% discount. Give me a call at 800-200-9366 if you're interested.
Thanks!
04-21-2006, 03:31 AM
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I have that setup on order and was wondering what everyone thinks it can hold powerwise?
04-21-2006, 01:58 PM
#42
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lart - did you do use the clutch for as is, or did you have it beef'ed up?
I'm wondering if the 930 disk, cup pp, and lightened steel flywheel are good for 350-400whp? I'm leaning this way to keep everything drivable and I'm worried about something bad happenning due the the extra forces of a stage I/II pp (maybe I'm just a worry wart).
Is it a good idea to rebuild or replace the slave and/or master cylinders 'while you're in there'?
I'm wondering if the 930 disk, cup pp, and lightened steel flywheel are good for 350-400whp? I'm leaning this way to keep everything drivable and I'm worried about something bad happenning due the the extra forces of a stage I/II pp (maybe I'm just a worry wart).
Is it a good idea to rebuild or replace the slave and/or master cylinders 'while you're in there'?
04-21-2006, 02:06 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by mtnman82
lart - did you do use the clutch for as is, or did you have it beef'ed up?
I'm wondering if the 930 disk, cup pp, and lightened steel flywheel are good for 350-400whp? I'm leaning this way to keep everything drivable and I'm worried about something bad happenning due the the extra forces of a stage I/II pp (maybe I'm just a worry wart).
Is it a good idea to rebuild or replace the slave and/or master cylinders 'while you're in there'?
I'm wondering if the 930 disk, cup pp, and lightened steel flywheel are good for 350-400whp? I'm leaning this way to keep everything drivable and I'm worried about something bad happenning due the the extra forces of a stage I/II pp (maybe I'm just a worry wart).
Is it a good idea to rebuild or replace the slave and/or master cylinders 'while you're in there'?