A Rebuild - new pics
03-04-2006, 08:35 PM
#17
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Ok, here are the Jet Hot items
Here is the micro polished crank
cam tower, MAF, lightened flywheel, Mafterburner, head
new blower motor cover and new expansion tank, and you can see the new clutch assy - cup PP and 930 disc.
Here is the micro polished crank
cam tower, MAF, lightened flywheel, Mafterburner, head
new blower motor cover and new expansion tank, and you can see the new clutch assy - cup PP and 930 disc.
03-04-2006, 08:44 PM
#18
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We got everything really clean, then got organized - bearings, 574 sealant, nuts washers, torque sheet...and we're off.
Crank in, new main bearings, redline assy lube, new gasket for oil pickup, and then always fun marking your 60° torque for the main girdle nuts.
After everything was in, nice and free, put the new rod bearings in the rods and rod caps. The pistons were done ahead of time with new rings so the ring compressor and we got all of those in, new rod nuts of course. Next were the balance shaft assemblies, noting to put in the new rubber on the upper one, balance shaft retainer for the oil feed to the turbo, short block just about done.
Got the head on and since we put the new head studs in, we just put the new gasket on and torqued to the first 15 ft lbs and let it sit tonight with the red loctite. Mocked up the exhaust and cam tower for a look - that's all for today.
Crank in, new main bearings, redline assy lube, new gasket for oil pickup, and then always fun marking your 60° torque for the main girdle nuts.
After everything was in, nice and free, put the new rod bearings in the rods and rod caps. The pistons were done ahead of time with new rings so the ring compressor and we got all of those in, new rod nuts of course. Next were the balance shaft assemblies, noting to put in the new rubber on the upper one, balance shaft retainer for the oil feed to the turbo, short block just about done.
Got the head on and since we put the new head studs in, we just put the new gasket on and torqued to the first 15 ft lbs and let it sit tonight with the red loctite. Mocked up the exhaust and cam tower for a look - that's all for today.
03-05-2006, 03:29 AM
#22
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Ski, couple of oddbal questions ... do you install the crank with the block on the stand -- do you have enough room to keep a good grip on the flywheel end of the crank that way?
Care to share your block cleaning procedures?
Care to share your block cleaning procedures?
03-05-2006, 12:18 PM
#23
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Thanks for the compliments, I just want to hear it start on the first try and have great oil pressure!
Tom I installed the pilot bearing with the crank out, and then I did install the crank with the block on the stand. After we get off the stand, I'll install the rear main seal and then the flywheel. Hopefully, it will go in the car on Wed or Thursday of this week.
Block cleaning - the first thing I did was soak it down with PB blaster. Yeah I know it had now rust on it
but ever been working on something and you sprayed WD 40 or some other lubricant and when you wiped your hands off they were clean? Same principle. I let it soak over night, hit it with the pressure washer, then use Castrol Super Clean, pressure washer, and final step was Alumi Brite, this is stuff that you use of party barge hulls. Get three bottles, keep the block wet so it won't streak, when the solution turns white all over, rinse the block and your done.
Tom I installed the pilot bearing with the crank out, and then I did install the crank with the block on the stand. After we get off the stand, I'll install the rear main seal and then the flywheel. Hopefully, it will go in the car on Wed or Thursday of this week.
Block cleaning - the first thing I did was soak it down with PB blaster. Yeah I know it had now rust on it
but ever been working on something and you sprayed WD 40 or some other lubricant and when you wiped your hands off they were clean? Same principle. I let it soak over night, hit it with the pressure washer, then use Castrol Super Clean, pressure washer, and final step was Alumi Brite, this is stuff that you use of party barge hulls. Get three bottles, keep the block wet so it won't streak, when the solution turns white all over, rinse the block and your done.
03-05-2006, 12:24 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Ski
Thanks for the compliments, I just want to hear it start on the first try and have great oil pressure!
Tom I installed the pilot bearing with the crank out, and then I did install the crank with the block on the stand. I plan on putting the flywheel on after we get it off the stand, and rear main seal as well.
Tom I installed the pilot bearing with the crank out, and then I did install the crank with the block on the stand. I plan on putting the flywheel on after we get it off the stand, and rear main seal as well.
03-05-2006, 12:28 PM
#25
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I hit the edit button Tom. We washed everything after the macine shop and blew compressed air everywhere. We have two immediate changes of oil ready when we fire the car up. After 2-3 minutes of running, with oil pressure, we'll do the first change. Then the second one will come after it's up to running temp and checking for leaks. This is done with 30wt. just to clean out things we might have missed.
03-05-2006, 02:13 PM
#27
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Nice stuff Bret! Maybe you already stated somewhere but where do you send your parts for the Jet Hot procedure? If can't find anyone locally I need and alternative for my exhaust parts. Are you guys planning on running Hallett this year?
Craig
Craig
03-05-2006, 04:26 PM
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Hallett, yes, Jim and I both plan on being there. If you call the 1-800 number, ask for Todd Beiswenger and tell him I told you to call him. He can send you a Jet Hot box for shipping and set up your account.
Scott, yeah I got it online at boat mart or something like that, I'll try to find the link, got it off MasterCrafts BBS.
Well, the heat issue has come up several times. I can tell you that the exhaust, crossover, turbo down pipe are down 192-203° over non coated parts - thus I would "guesstimate" that more heat is staying in the exhaust components, keeping the exhuast gases hotter and traveling faster. Now how to measure that or how much faster, probably not much to quantify but what the hell. The intake, ceramic coating or powder coat or paint; that discussion will continue and I think it's a subjective subject and your own money. I like coating the outside of the intake for looks as much as hoping to keep some heat out of it, from the turbocharger. You do get a bit of residule spray inside but not much. Rhob wanted to coat the other items just becuase they weren't polishing up well.
Scott, yeah I got it online at boat mart or something like that, I'll try to find the link, got it off MasterCrafts BBS.
Well, the heat issue has come up several times. I can tell you that the exhaust, crossover, turbo down pipe are down 192-203° over non coated parts - thus I would "guesstimate" that more heat is staying in the exhaust components, keeping the exhuast gases hotter and traveling faster. Now how to measure that or how much faster, probably not much to quantify but what the hell. The intake, ceramic coating or powder coat or paint; that discussion will continue and I think it's a subjective subject and your own money. I like coating the outside of the intake for looks as much as hoping to keep some heat out of it, from the turbocharger. You do get a bit of residule spray inside but not much. Rhob wanted to coat the other items just becuase they weren't polishing up well.