UK952

silkolene Pro R

lleroyb

Off thread, but what the heck, it's my thread. UK: I am having a friendly argument with a local 951 owner. He thinks the 952 is a 951 with the K26-8 (951S), I think it is a right hand drive 944 turbo. Do you know where I could find the answer in a Porsche document?

Thanks,
Lou

ehall

the engine that used the k26/8 was the 44/52 engine.(as opposed to the 44/51) The right hand drive cars were 952's rather than 951's. I'll find that for you sometime today.

ZPmadA

I use Valvoline Racing 20w50 aswell. Previous owner suggested using it. I did a little research and couldn't find anything bad about it,(please let me know if you know of bad news) so I stuck to it. The price is great a $2.50 a quart so I change it frequently, but it ends up costing more than if I were to use synthetic. I change it every 2000 miles, never past 2500. My dad think I change it too often but I tell him it's cheaper than a new engine and I kinda enjoy changing the oil. I think thats better than buying an expensive synthetic oil and changing it less frequently, but thats just me. I probably spend more doing it myway because I change the oil twice as often as people would with synthetic, so thats $2.50 x 2 + an extra oil filter assuming synthetic guys change their oil every 4000-5000 miles. You guys think this is good or should I switch to synthetic and longer intervals?

lleroyb

I have used Valvoline dino juice with great results in a Volvo 240 series which has 212K miles and uses 1/2 quart between changes. I used a 3000 mile change interval until 175Kmiles when I changed to Mobil 1 and 4000 mile change interval. In conflict with many people's experience the car did not start leaking and the oil consumption dropped to 1/2 qt. or less between changes from 1 qt. between changes with the Valvoline.

I also used Valvoline in an International Scout I had for 14 years. It was my daily driver and had 100K after the second year I owned it. I could only guess at the ultimate mileage since the odometer quit at about 200K. I stuck to a 2500 to 3000 mile change interval even though it held 7 quarts.

I started using Mobil 1 when I bought the first 944 because people I trust to know this stuff said it was better than any dino juice, especially at high temperatures. I also feel synthetic would protect the bearings better in the event of an oil cooler seal failure (944 NA), which concerned me at the time.

I really don't want to start using something that is hard to find or I have to special order. I am considering the Redline 20w-50 even though the winter temps here can get slightly below the range shown for 20w-50 in the owner's manual.

Thanks to those above who have provided food for thought and advice. My mechanic/friend whom I trust more than I can express was the previous owner of the car. He had Mobil 1 15w-50 in the car when I bought it. Now I am worried it is not the same producut it has been. Why the F___ do companies always develop a great product then cash in on the reputation of the product by making it cheaper and selling it for the "old" price? (Frequently after being aquired/merged).

Lou

Ski

Oil is a very subjective subject and in the end, everyone is going to use what they feel comfortable with and what they want to afford. I don't think track cars are going 3000 - 4000 miles before change, too much heat no matter what the oil is but who knows. We change it after every event anyway. I pulled a sample after a full DE weekend and sent it in with our offshore samples. Everything came back normal and the list of possible contents were all less than 1% - this engine is three years old now, full rebuild, runs 17psi, and is usually driven twice during each "session", as Jim and I split time in different run groups.

Our catch can was getting 1/2 full in a day with Mobil 1. After a person recommended Valvo 20/50 racing, our catch can dropped to 1/4 full for a full weekend - car mostly goes to TWS, Hallett, Memphis, and this year, Barber Motorsports.

lleroyb

Bret, I wonder if the Mobil 1 blows by more because it is thinner? I am sure that with no more than a weekend of track use the dino juice will still provide plenty of protection. There would probably no gain for you to use synthetic, unless maybe a cooling system failure caused the engine to overheat and you did not notice. That is unlikely.
I am looking for the best logevity in a street car. I am so **** about lubrication that I either fill the filter ahead (on vertical open end up cars) or in the case of the 944s pull the DME relay and crank the engine until pressure builds. Based on the high mileage I have gotten from cars & trucks in the past, I believe it helps. Like you said it is subject and as an engineer, I have trouble dealing with that.

Lou

ENGINEERMAN

Hi Lou:

You asked about the Castrol. I have used it for years in my cars. I use full Syntec 5-50 in my Turbo Cars, several of which (Audi Quattro's) have had well over 200k miles with no problems.

Synthetic oils will always give you better start up protection, especially in colder temps. They also have higher temp capabilities. I think that the higher cost oils may have better spec's (Red Line, Royal Purple, etc.) but the real question is will the Mobil 1, or Castrol Syntec not provide enough protection to prevent deterioration of the oil film? The answer is that they will do the job.

There is no question that any true synthetic will give you better protection than a Dino oil. That has been proven in countless test studies. Your turbo will also last longer because the Synthetic can better withstand the heat soak that will occur after shut down.

I hope that this helps!

Best regards!

Tom

turbinek

To those who run 20W-50: Do you drive your car in winter too?

ehall

yes

turbinek

ehall: As you're running the car in the winter, how does your engine behave?
20W-50 is a little more like chewing gum than the 5W-50 I am running.

ehall

lol. I live in Florida. What the hell is 20 deg F anyway? Works great doesn't leak as bad as the mobil **** water. I'm waiting on an order of AGIP 10w 60 racing juice to arrive, but I just had to get that mobil **** out. So far I too like the vlavoline.

turbinek

Florida - lucky man!

In Switzerland that is another story - but they are other states who face even more cold temparatures I think. No one in Denver or NY riding 951 in winter?

Besides my engine never leaked oil. Once there was a problem with the hose to the oil cooler (pissed at the connector). The other point (I guess very common on every engine) at the valve seats. Since the engine rebuild the only oil that gets lost is the amount I swap off the dip stick!

Peckster

\


I've never had a leak with Mobil 1, this is total BS imo. Keep your seals in good condition and you won't have a problem with any oil.

Ski

You're entitled to your opinion, as I am mine. You followed the track car build, you know everything was new. Not only was the catch can filling up but the front seal was seeping. Mobil 1 out, no more problems. Maybe an isolated case, but too many pms about Mobil 1, we're not the only BBS that has talked about it also. Like I said, oil is very subjective - and this was encountered on a track car too. Cooling is great on the car so heat and oil temps(dual cooler) did not seem to be the problem, as the temps are still as they were when everything started happening.