cpt_koolbeenz

Hey Guys
I finally got my car back together after about 2.5 years! It is a good feeling!

Yesterday, I got a pre-oiler from my engine builder. It is basically a pressurized tank that you put oil into that forces it into the engine via the oil pressure sender tap. Well, it didn't work properly due to an air leak in the tank and it took about 45 minutes to get one quart in. While doing so, I tapped the starter about three times to allow the oil passages to line up. (The instructions said to turn the engine over by hand, but I couldn't get to the crank bolt due to my larger radiator.) So I put the oil pressure sender back in and filled the crankcase normally. Then I pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked her a few times. I didn't see a reading on the oil pressure gauge. I am not sure if I am supposed to or not while cranking. Anyway, at that point it was around 25 degrees outside and I decided to call it a night.

I also pressurized the fuel system to check for leaks. Sure enough, my fuel dampener was leaking around the crimped part in the middle of its body. So I have to find a new one of those...

My main questions are as follows:
Should I see anything on the oil pressure gauge while cranking?
Do you think I hurt anything by tapping the starter and turing over the engine? (I wouldn't think so, but the thought had crossed my mind.)
And what would your suggestions be to continue? (I cannot resume working on my car for a few weeks since school is starting (school is 75 mi from my car)).

Thanks!

Ski

Here you go. Here is a good prime the oil pump that has worked well for lots of folks on a dry engine.

*Fill oil pan with 5 quarts of oil
***PRIME OIL PUMP *fill oil through hole in filter housing closest to engine(2 quarts), turn engine over BACKWARDS 4-8 times. Pull fuel pump fuse, DME relay*
*Install oil filter
*Connect battery
*Crank car over in 5 sec intervals 3-4 times. Install fuel pump fuse and DME relay.
*Check oil level
*Cross your fingers and START

good luck!

Perry 951

Excellent advise by Ski. And if you don't see oil pressure within 5 or so seconds of running, shut it down and prime the pump again.

Initial run in should last long enough to get the fluids up to temp, no load running, and at an RPM above 1500.

David Floyd

And then shout for joy when she roars to life !!!

Magown

Last one I primed took 30 seconds of starter to prime. That was with the plugs out. That's after it was run with no pressure for no telling how long. So consider that bone dry.

Al P.

if your builder "did it right" all of the bearing surfaces in the motor should be liberally coated in assembly lube and the cylinders and pistons should be well oiled. If that's the case then turning the motor over with the starter (with the plugs out) till you see pressure on the guage won't hurt a thing.

Pull the DME so you aren't pumping fuel into it.

michael2e

You probably have a bad oil pump - just kidding. I agree with Al, assuming you used prelube you should be OK with short cranks. That's what I did and it worked fine. Took (anxiously) longer than I would have thought to prime the passageways although I cant remember exactly.

Regardless, congrats on the build - looking forward to catching up and seeing the beast at the next get together. Good Luck

Mike

Waterguy

Yes, you will see full oil pressure (4 bar plus) on the gauge when cranking with the starter motor. I do this every spring after the car has been sitting all winter. A cycle of 15 seconds cranking followed by 45 seconds of cool-down will keep your starter from overheating and shortening its life. Typically I would start to see pressure on the second 15 second cycle, and reach full pressure on the third cycle. Then put the DME relay back in and fire her up.

Obviously it will take longer with a rebuilt engine, but I would not start it until I saw full oil pressure. YMMV.

User 41221

Follow the advice given by Ski, its right on the money. Also, stay off the boost for at least 500 miles unless you want to rebuild your engine again soon.

Regards,

Chris White

A couple of comments –
Most rebuilt engines will not build oil pressure via cranking quickly….some take quite a while. Removing the plugs allows the engine to turn over faster and it takes the compression load off the bearings. If that does not work after 20 seconds the next step is to remove the oil filter and crank with somebody watching the mounting area. Removing the filter removes any ‘back pressure’ – but the oil will come out fast once it primes!!

If you used decent assembly lube there will not be a problem with some prolonged cranking.

Chris White

DanG

I'm assuming the author of this statement uses decent assembly lube?

Question for this discussion... how far until the first oil change? 100 miles? 500 miles?

Jeremy Himsel

I typically change the oil after a few minutes of running just in case there is any residual dirt or debris in the motor from assy. I usually change it again @ 500 miles & then @ 3K.

Chris White

Change it ASAP. There will be some metal from the machining and initial start up no matter how careful you are. Oil is cheap (especially since you are not using synthetic yet).

Chris White

Chris White

What? You expect me to use the good stuff on customer’s engines?
Nothing but Redline Assembly lube in your engine.

Chris White

cpt_koolbeenz

Thanks guys...
Waterguy: That was exactly what I was looking for.
Assemby lube all over, but it did sit for a long time, so most of the lube settled in the oil pan. I will remove sparkplugs so the starter does not have to push so hard. Sadly, I am not able to play with my car for another week or so... Damn school!