Torque Spec For Oil Thermostat Cap?
07-10-2016, 01:10 PM
#16
Alex, I think it's a rational thing to do. I bought a thermostat off ebay and wanted to pull it apart to make sure it wasn't full of shrapnel from a blown motor -- thought that would be a lousy way to break in a new motor. I finally gave up, and instead boiled the whole housing in peanut oil to confirm the thermostat works and to see if anything ugly came out. It worked and looked clean so I proclaimed it ok. Fingers crossed.
In the absence of a Porsche torque spec, I'd crank it mighty tight.
In the absence of a Porsche torque spec, I'd crank it mighty tight.
I got mine out (HOLY CRAP WAS IT TIGHT) but I can't imagine 200+ is what it needs.
07-10-2016, 01:16 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
07-10-2016, 03:22 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
I have part of the answer you seek. After 1984 the blind plug on the NA 944 was installed at the factory with Loctite 641 (TSB 8408), which they likely carried practice over to on the 944T. Although 641 is only supposed to be medium strength retaining compound it doesn't make the removal any easier.
07-10-2016, 03:34 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I have part of the answer you seek. After 1984 the blind plug on the NA 944 was installed at the factory with Loctite 641 (TSB 8408), which they likely carried practice over to on the 944T. Although 641 is only supposed to be medium strength retaining compound it doesn't make the removal any easier.
07-10-2016, 07:26 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
The tech spec booklet lists, for the "oil filter relief valve," an M20 x 1.5 mm thread and two torque specs: 45 Nm (33 ftlb) and 20 Nm (15 ftlb). I have no idea why they list the two values! I suspect the 45 Nm value is a good one.
Be sure to use a fresh seal ring. If you haven't already disassembled the plug, it would be helpful to use witness marks to confirm things: make marks on the plug and housing with a paint pen, see where 45 Nm gets you with respect to them. The parts are aluminum, so don't go too crazy with torque even though it was a bear to get apart.
The bypass valves do fail or go out of spec with age. I remember discussing this with Bruce Anderson many years ago, his experience of course was with respect to the bypass valve in 911 series cars. I had a challenge getting the plug out, like you guys. I think we two-manned it: one person with a big breaker bar with a pipe "extender" (yep, not proud of the technique), the other person at the socket making sure things stayed engaged and stable.
PS: do it with the housing attached to the engine block. Do NOT use a frickin' impact tool, bad things are likely to happen.
Good luck!
Be sure to use a fresh seal ring. If you haven't already disassembled the plug, it would be helpful to use witness marks to confirm things: make marks on the plug and housing with a paint pen, see where 45 Nm gets you with respect to them. The parts are aluminum, so don't go too crazy with torque even though it was a bear to get apart.
The bypass valves do fail or go out of spec with age. I remember discussing this with Bruce Anderson many years ago, his experience of course was with respect to the bypass valve in 911 series cars. I had a challenge getting the plug out, like you guys. I think we two-manned it: one person with a big breaker bar with a pipe "extender" (yep, not proud of the technique), the other person at the socket making sure things stayed engaged and stable.
PS: do it with the housing attached to the engine block. Do NOT use a frickin' impact tool, bad things are likely to happen.
Good luck!
07-11-2016, 11:23 AM
#22
Ok I found this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...readsheet.html
That made sense to me so that's what I went with.
That made sense to me so that's what I went with.
07-11-2016, 03:00 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
07-11-2016, 03:25 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
07-11-2016, 04:40 PM
#27
I'm pretty sure the M48 is right. There isn't much of a lip on that cap - the thread size is almost the same diameter as the top of the cap.