Transmission Clunking Sound
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I was driving home tonight in 5th when I decided to accelerate from 3krpm. I pressed pretty hard and started getting into boost when I heard some kind of clicking noise that sounded like it was from the engine. If I let off the accelerator, it stops. Then it started getting worse. Turns out, the cluncking noise happens even when I'm start going from a stop while I am accelerating. It has nothing to do with the revving of the motor, just when the transmission starts going.
This just started tonight and it's the last thing I need. Not sure how to explain it other than a "tat-tat-tat" noise, not very fast though. When I am just going from a stop, it is "tat" maybe 1 or 2 times per second. I don't feel much, just hear it. It sounds like something hitting my exhaust or something, but I'm pretty sure it is something with the transmission.
Any ideas?
This just started tonight and it's the last thing I need. Not sure how to explain it other than a "tat-tat-tat" noise, not very fast though. When I am just going from a stop, it is "tat" maybe 1 or 2 times per second. I don't feel much, just hear it. It sounds like something hitting my exhaust or something, but I'm pretty sure it is something with the transmission.
Any ideas?
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i second the cv...check the drivers side..the heat from the exhaust will break down the grease..if you catch in time.you will just need to take it apart and regrease.do a search on cv.its a very easy but messy job.
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If it is rhythmic and the rhythm correlates to the speed of the vehicle it is a probably a CV joint.
When I was a Kid I had a Buick Skylark that made that sound when I cornered hard. Like a tick or tat sound.
It is a Ball bearing binding in the Central Velocity joint.
When I was a Kid I had a Buick Skylark that made that sound when I cornered hard. Like a tick or tat sound.
It is a Ball bearing binding in the Central Velocity joint.
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Dude full load in 5th at full load and it sounds like the engine??
Is it up front or at the rear?
If it doesn't make the noise while you are coasting, you need to worry about detonation, ESPECIALLY with those chips that have blown up about 50 motors.
What gas is in the vehicle? When was the last time the combustion chambers were cleaned of carbon buildup?
Is it up front or at the rear?
If it doesn't make the noise while you are coasting, you need to worry about detonation, ESPECIALLY with those chips that have blown up about 50 motors.
What gas is in the vehicle? When was the last time the combustion chambers were cleaned of carbon buildup?
#6
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My initial thought was that it was the engine. After I killed it and took it around the block slowly I noticed that it was not related to the engine, but just when I put on the gas. I always run 93 octane from a quality station (no race track or fina gas).
Question: If it is the CV joint would it only happen when I accelerate? If I rev up the engine slowly to about 3000, it doesn't make the noise (granted there is no load on it but still), If I start going from a stop slowly, I hear the noise. If I brake hard, I don't hear the noise.
Question: If it is the CV joint would it only happen when I accelerate? If I rev up the engine slowly to about 3000, it doesn't make the noise (granted there is no load on it but still), If I start going from a stop slowly, I hear the noise. If I brake hard, I don't hear the noise.
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Originally Posted by danny951
My initial thought was that it was the engine. After I killed it and took it around the block slowly I noticed that it was not related to the engine, but just when I put on the gas. I always run 93 octane from a quality station (no race track or fina gas).
Question: If it is the CV joint would it only happen when I accelerate? If I rev up the engine slowly to about 3000, it doesn't make the noise (granted there is no load on it but still), If I start going from a stop slowly, I hear the noise. If I brake hard, I don't hear the noise.
Question: If it is the CV joint would it only happen when I accelerate? If I rev up the engine slowly to about 3000, it doesn't make the noise (granted there is no load on it but still), If I start going from a stop slowly, I hear the noise. If I brake hard, I don't hear the noise.
It was explained to me that the clicking sound normally will occur only when a load is applied. Why?
Only when you put them under the stress of a load do the ball bearing's bind in the sleeve that is holding them. I took the CV Joints apart on my 83’ 944 and put new Molly lube in them and reversed them. The most difficult part was getting past the bolts that secured them to the transmission Tran’s axle and the Trans axle in the controller arm.
They come apart pretty easy, but hard to get back together. The grease is messy and making sure the ***** stay secure in the sleeve is quite a trick.
But it can be done!
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the noise coming from the cv...could be more of a clunking noise...one time it started slowly only did it a few times then went away then gradually got worse...you will not feel it at idle.you will feel on acceleration.
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well that sounds exactly like what I've got dougoh and SchnellerUmsetzer. I'm taking it to Istook's today for him to look at this week. I just don't have the tools/resources to do this myself. I am glad to have Rennlist though to help with the diagnosis so at least I know what is going on.
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Just an update:
Weird. I was taking the car down to Fort. Worth (about a 40 minute drive) and the first half of the drive, anytime I was either accelerating or coasting with the car in gear (light engine-breaking) I would hear the ticking noise from the CV. Then about halfway to the shop, it just stops. No noise whatsoever. No clicking or ticking. Just smooth. So I get to a stop and accelerate moderately hard and let off and take some hard corners and still nothing!
I figure maybe the CV Joint adjusted itself and is working properly, but it may take nothing for it to start binding again so I took it in anyway. Don told me the boots look fine, but he can take it apart, clean it out, rotate the joints, inspect everything and repack. He said it will give me more life by rotating it so I don't wear them down too much to where I would need new axles. Not really sure what that means, but sounded logical. He quoted me a couple hours work so it's not too much to check and be on the safe side.
Weird. I was taking the car down to Fort. Worth (about a 40 minute drive) and the first half of the drive, anytime I was either accelerating or coasting with the car in gear (light engine-breaking) I would hear the ticking noise from the CV. Then about halfway to the shop, it just stops. No noise whatsoever. No clicking or ticking. Just smooth. So I get to a stop and accelerate moderately hard and let off and take some hard corners and still nothing!
I figure maybe the CV Joint adjusted itself and is working properly, but it may take nothing for it to start binding again so I took it in anyway. Don told me the boots look fine, but he can take it apart, clean it out, rotate the joints, inspect everything and repack. He said it will give me more life by rotating it so I don't wear them down too much to where I would need new axles. Not really sure what that means, but sounded logical. He quoted me a couple hours work so it's not too much to check and be on the safe side.
#11
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When my CV joints failed, they would clunk for a while, then sound fine, then clunk some more, then sound fine.... eventually they clunked all the time...
BTW, the joints themselves can be replaced for under a $100 a side, if memory serves. If you are paying to take it apart and reassemble, it hardly seems worth it to reuse the old joints... just my two cents...
BTW, the joints themselves can be replaced for under a $100 a side, if memory serves. If you are paying to take it apart and reassemble, it hardly seems worth it to reuse the old joints... just my two cents...
Originally Posted by danny951
Just an update:
Weird. I was taking the car down to Fort. Worth (about a 40 minute drive) and the first half of the drive, anytime I was either accelerating or coasting with the car in gear (light engine-breaking) I would hear the ticking noise from the CV. Then about halfway to the shop, it just stops. No noise whatsoever. No clicking or ticking. Just smooth. So I get to a stop and accelerate moderately hard and let off and take some hard corners and still nothing!
I figure maybe the CV Joint adjusted itself and is working properly, but it may take nothing for it to start binding again so I took it in anyway. Don told me the boots look fine, but he can take it apart, clean it out, rotate the joints, inspect everything and repack. He said it will give me more life by rotating it so I don't wear them down too much to where I would need new axles. Not really sure what that means, but sounded logical. He quoted me a couple hours work so it's not too much to check and be on the safe side.
Weird. I was taking the car down to Fort. Worth (about a 40 minute drive) and the first half of the drive, anytime I was either accelerating or coasting with the car in gear (light engine-breaking) I would hear the ticking noise from the CV. Then about halfway to the shop, it just stops. No noise whatsoever. No clicking or ticking. Just smooth. So I get to a stop and accelerate moderately hard and let off and take some hard corners and still nothing!
I figure maybe the CV Joint adjusted itself and is working properly, but it may take nothing for it to start binding again so I took it in anyway. Don told me the boots look fine, but he can take it apart, clean it out, rotate the joints, inspect everything and repack. He said it will give me more life by rotating it so I don't wear them down too much to where I would need new axles. Not really sure what that means, but sounded logical. He quoted me a couple hours work so it's not too much to check and be on the safe side.
#12
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Agreed, mine where doing the same thing. I changed my whole axle and took my old ones apart and found some realy nice wear. I would either replace all the joints or replace the axles. Parts where like $400 and only about an hour to do. All of mine were worn except one.