I recived the tune up kit that I bought on Rennlist.
I have a factory coil and later will have Authority 2 Stage 2 chips installed!
I will not respond to this thread just looking to expert oppion about the 951.

The gap is set at .036" or .9mm
What gap do you recommed for the Spark plugs (Bosch Supers WR 7 DC) ?

I will install them W/a little anti-sieze on them.

What should torque the spark plugs to in the head too?

 

NGK BPR7ES

Gap 0.7mm

Torque 20lbs

 

.7mm + .1mm acording to the shop manuals. Torque, 18-22ft/lbs.

 

Factory manual specifically states DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE on spark plugs.

 

And there is a good reason - if it is not correct electric type, IT WILL INTERFERE WITH GROUNDING OF SPARK PLUG.
I have had no start/fouling on my 924 from both sparkplug indexing washers and from anti-sieze.

Don't put any **** on your plugs.

 

Ive used anti-size on the spark plug threads on both the 944T and NA for 4+ years, no problems. All you need is a small amount (really small) on the thread and it works its way.

 

Allow me to interpret for vacuus Hosrom...

He lives in the desert and his IAT never sees the need to inject huge amounts of startup fuel which will foul your plugs at startup if you do not live in a Venus-type atmosphere.

Do not put any **** on your plugs.

 

Ok ST, you owe me a keyboard and a cup of green tea

 

I agree that anti-seize could result in fouling. I use only copper based anti seize and just enough to fill the threads at the top and wipe the rest off.

Why:
I had a D-50 (Dodge Pick-up) with an aluminum head. I put the plugs in and at 50,000 miles tired to remove them and it stripped out the # 4 cylinder there by a helix coil in ole #4. Not cool!

When I used to be on the pit crew on a Dirt stock car(NASCAR)/Outlaw. We always had very expensive Aluminum heads. I was tought to use just a bit of anti seize prior to installing plugs by the crew chief and owner. We used to mark the electrode to make sure that it pointed in the right direction to maximize spark produced!

Why
Plug have steel threads v. heads are aluminum for some reason when the to heat up together plus carbon build up they can seize in the head.

I used electric conductive anti-seize on the plugs and not much.

HOWEVER “SPECIAL TOOL” WHAT YOU SAY MAKES SENSE AND WILL REMEMBER THAT!

Thank You


PS: My uncle, the guy whom I raced with my whole life, retired after 30 years. To make a long story short he bought one of those limited editions "35th Aniversery SS Cameros" (Chevrolet only made 300 of them). He keeps the car in his race shop. Last week I was out there and after 3 years it still only has 925 miles on it. It is a bad a$$ed show car. He promised when I come home with my 951 we will go to highway and see which one is faster.

 

another subject to talk about. Any of you guys index your plugs?
Eyal

 

Tool: Don't take my post in the wrong way, i am not arguing with what you or anyone said, just informing on what i do and the experience from real world results.

I don't put anti-size on all the threads on the spark plug, just a small amount on the threads furthest away from the gap.

Note: Our winters are colder than you think, it actually snowed here last year, yes SNOW in the desert! Link Did i mention the 100% himidity we get here in summer as well?

 

Special Tool, you index your plugs to face the intake valve right? Factory manual says this is the only way to break the 532rwhp mark.

 

No - you know I tried that on my 924S to get above 98 HP - but I had fouling problems on a few cold days. I took the indexing washers out (copper, brass, aluminum) and she fired RIGHT up!!!
I don't mess with the grounding now.