What is the verdict on the kricket belt tool?
11-17-2005, 05:45 PM
#31
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Don't worry if you have the crankshaft and camshaft spot on, the best (and i do mean it) method to accurately get TDC is by removing the #1 spark plug and inserting a long screw driver in there.
SD Porsche Fan,
Wow, its been such a long time that I have referenced the Haynes manuel, I do not remember that reference. Sorry for the mis-info. It must have been the Factory manual that I was thinking of.
11-17-2005, 06:17 PM
#32
Cast Iron Man
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Yeah the Haynes manual works as well as a fly swatter as a guide to working on the 944. And I'm not being kind to fly swatters! 
It's almost more useless on Turbos!
There was a thread a while back about Haynes Manual Translations. One of the funniest things I've ever read!
Hanes Manual Translations
It's almost more useless on Turbos!There was a thread a while back about Haynes Manual Translations. One of the funniest things I've ever read!
Hanes Manual Translations
11-17-2005, 07:54 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Bill
TDC is when the piston is at the top of its stroke on the compression cycle. This is not to be confused with the top of its stroke on the exhaust cycle. A screwdriver can not differentiate this fact. What I do is pull off the distributor cap and set the rotor to approx. where the #1 spark plug wire terminal is. As Hos says, this will get you close enough, and on the correct cycle, to then align the timing mark on the flywheel with the belhousing pointer.
thanks for mentioning it
11-17-2005, 08:42 PM
#34
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I saw that a lot of you were recomending the arnworx tool over the kriket. As far as I can tell they are the same thing with maybe slightly different markings.
I've never used (or even seen) the special tool since I bought the 951 over 7 years ago. I don't think the tension on the belts needs to be nearly as accurate as some people on here seem to think. As long as it's tight enough not to slap around or skip a tooth and loose enough not to burn up a bearing you will be fine.
I've never used (or even seen) the special tool since I bought the 951 over 7 years ago. I don't think the tension on the belts needs to be nearly as accurate as some people on here seem to think. As long as it's tight enough not to slap around or skip a tooth and loose enough not to burn up a bearing you will be fine.
11-17-2005, 08:56 PM
#35
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I've never used (or even seen) the special tool since I bought the 951 over 7 years ago. I don't think the tension on the belts needs to be nearly as accurate as some people on here seem to think. As long as it's tight enough not to slap around or skip a tooth and loose enough not to burn up a bearing you will be fine.
11-17-2005, 09:32 PM
#36
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Ben, The kritkit tool on Arnnworx IS the exact same as the krikit sold elsewhere (maybe different color/markings). Arnnworx also sells a $140 belt tensioning tool - I think that's what some are referring too.
And, while I do have a pretty good feel for torques/tensions by hand (and double-checked over the years), and do agree that for any belt you simply want it tight enough not to slip but not too tight to burn up bearings, I'll still be using a tool to check on the cam/balance belts for this car .....
And, while I do have a pretty good feel for torques/tensions by hand (and double-checked over the years), and do agree that for any belt you simply want it tight enough not to slip but not too tight to burn up bearings, I'll still be using a tool to check on the cam/balance belts for this car .....
11-17-2005, 11:55 PM
#37
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Since the numbers on the factory tool don't correspond to any particular measuring unit, how does one know what reading to shoot for on the Kriket?
I always use the factory tool, but am less convinced than ever that it is essential once you've developed a good feel for the spec tension.
I always use the factory tool, but am less convinced than ever that it is essential once you've developed a good feel for the spec tension.
