rcarpen22

I know everyone gets worked up about the tensioning tool controversy but the easiest thing to do is tension it by hand (the twist method works nicely) and then take it to a shop that has the tool. The shop I use charges about $75 to do it. The last time I did mine I drove about 1200 miles nice and easy and then took it in for retensioning. I've never had any problems. When you get down to it it's just a belt. Every Honda has a similar timing and balance belt set up and there is no special tool to set the tension on those. I will say that it's a much bigger pain doing a belt job on an Accord than it is on a 951! We have it easy.

SchnellerUmsetzer

I have owned one for about 2 years now. I am still to leary to work on the belts on the front of my car and have never used it!

APKhaos

I tried the Krikit during the rebuild, last winter. The engine was on a stand, so no access issues. Could not get repeatable readings with the Krikit, and believe me I tried! Finally found a local guy with the 9201, and the difference was what you would expect from an expensive factory tool.

Has anyone tried the Arnworx tool? It looks interesting, and should give a much more positive result than the Krikit.

TD in DC

Tony,

I just ordered the Arnworx tool. You can check it out when it arrives. Who has the "special tool" around us?

TD

SD Porsche Fan

I had my belts done the day I bought the car. I even loaded it up on a trailor to take it to the shop (previous belts had been on for 8 years).

The shop I used tensioned by hand. He is mainly a 911 guy but had done quite a few 944 belts. After 1000 miles I drove my car down to Kansas City and had sh944 check the tension with his P9201. The timing belt was right on but the balance shaft belt was off the chart too much tension. My guess it that because it is a shorter belt it is difficult tension by feel when comparing it to the timing belt.

Has anyone done a arnwrox vs. P9201 comparision? I've guess I haven't even seen any posts from people using the arnworx tool. I am considering buying the $99 kit for the next time I do my belts.

Bill

I own the 9201 tool. I have done a direct comparison with another 944 owners cricket tool. As others have stated, getting to the point where you get consistent readings with the cricket tool took several tries. After the learning curve, the cricket tool was as accurate as my 9201 tool. But remember, the only way I could see to learn how to use a cricket tool accurately, is to do several tensionings side by side with the 9201 tool. If the cricket tool is not used properly, you will get differing readings. The 9201 tool will give accurate readings first time, everytime.

Oh, and the MOST important thing for accurate readings is to let the engine cool overnight. A hot 944 engine expands. If you set the tension before the engine is dead cold, you will get inaccurate settings, even with the 9201 tool.

hosrom_951

Right, also rolling back 1.5 teeth (before TDC) to get tension readings of the belt itself.

Bill

Hos,

Good point, you are absolutley correct. Rolling back 1.5 teeth is also very important. Most manuals point this out, but I have never seen a manual mention a dead cold engine. I did a tension on a belt with the engine cooled after 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours and all were different. If you set the tension hot, your belt will be too loose. This is bad.

Doyle623

Is there anywhere that I can purchase the Krikit besides his website?? Are there any retail/parts stores that carry this item such as Sears/Carquest, etc. ??

mtnman82

I got a krikit tool from my local NAPA store for $11. I asked if they had a belt tensioning tool and the guy knew exactly what I was talking about (Kragen, Autozone, etc didn't have a clue, even after explaining). I also got a krikit in the $99 Arnnworx kit.

mtnman82

I'm in the middle of doing my belts. Haven't heard of the 1.5 teeth thing (maybe I'm not far enough into reading Clarke's Garage). Do I turn the crank w/ the belts on, or are we talking just rotating the cam???

Bill

I do not know about Clarks Garage, but a Haynes 944 manual will cover most repairs nicely.

Place #1 piston at TDC. Make sure all timing marks are in alignment (#1 piston at TDC, flywheel, cam, balance pulleys). Install all belts (balance/cam). Rotate the crank shaft counter clockwise so the mark on the cam gear is 1.5 teeth back from the mark on the cam housing. This takes up all the slack in the belts. Now carefully tension the belts without moving the crankshaft position. The 9201 gauge is placed on the section of belt with no tension (slack) for the measurement.

Once you are at the correct tension, gently turn the crankshaft by hand (ratchet) through several crank revolutions. Removing the spark plugs will make this step easier. This will assure that you have placed the belts in their proper timing. If the crank spins freely, recheck the tension, tension ok - close up cover. If the crank stops while turning, do not force, stop, remove belts, realign all the timing marks (#1 piston at TDC, flywheel, cam, balance pulleys), re-install belts, repeat tension proceedure.

The above check can save your valves. The first time I did a belt, lucky for me I did this check. I had the belts out of time and if I would have used the starter, I would have bent valves.

When you start the car after your first successfull belt job, you officially become a Doctor of Beltology. If you bend valves, consider a different hobby. Good luck.

SD Porsche Fan

From page 47 of the Haynes Manual:
I've found Haynes to be good for general reference and basic maintaince. Clarks Garage is by far the best resource for most commonly performed maintaince tasks. Rolling back 1.5 teeth is very good to know!

jmporsche944

If youve got the magic touch like myself, you dont need tensioning tools.

hosrom_951

Don't worry if you have the crankshaft and camshaft spot on, the best (and i do mean it) method to accurately get TDC is by removing the #1 spark plug and inserting a long screw driver in there. Once you turn the cranshaft clock wise, the screw driver should get lower (depending on which position you started). Once you past BDC (bottom dead center) the screw driver would be moving upwards (due to the piston pushing against it). Once the screw driver reached the highest point, that is TDC.

This is where the camshaft mark should be dead on with the rear cover, as well as the balance shaft sprokets (the lower one will be harder due to the angle).

Engine should be cold (manual indicated room temp) and you should roll back 1.5 teeth before setting and checking tension. Once that is done, turn the engine clockwise two full revolutions, roll back 1.5 teeth from TDC and check tension (this way, the tension is fully distributed across the belt). Hold you're breath and start the car...once it fires up and idles smoothly, you can relax and enjoy

Take you're time, and everything will be fine (just make sure you got everything lined up correctly).