"why do you feel that the brakes on these cars (mine is pre-ABS) need any upgrading? Anyway, I don't get it."

Maybe he just wants to and thats great, Maybe that will help out some track guys, if it works.

"New stuff...I'm attempting to remember girls names so I don't have to sneak out in the middle of the night anymore."

Try not to let them know your name and the feeling will be mutual.

On topic...I'm buying and installing 24 way adjustable Leda coil overs from Chris White.
Then it's straight to the engine project. I've decided that I want to use the 2.5 liter 8 valve T engine and take it to the most extreme levels of performance possible. I was thinking 3.0 litre, or 2.8, but as tech gets better and better, I think there is a lot left to find in the stock based motor .[/QUOTE]

I think your right but at Higher RPM's. Are you talking street or track?

Try talking to Stoptech, maybe they can help out? How much do they cost?

I talk to my local dealer, and there are 5 different ones. But for a unit that will work on 13 in. Rotors are around $300-$400 bucks each plus adaptors. The GT3 calipers are around $1K.

I will give stoptech a try. You think they can help?

Regards,
AL

Its Mini-Me!

Can someone tell me more about the megasquirt set up?

eVil944t,

Yes, the motor is sitting on the dyno right now. Its a Land & Sea "Dynomite" water brake with electronically adjustable load valve.

I got the wiring harness together last night in about an hour. Unfortunately we boogered up the threads on one of our AN fitting/fuel rail/injector cup assemblies so we couldn't get it running. But its close. Real close.

Info on brake upgrades –
It may sound strange but you want the SMALLEST brakes that will adequately do the job. Adding ‘overkill’ just adds weight to the moving mass of the suspension – the worst place possible to add weight. You may find that the Cayenne calipers are unduly heavy as they are built for a ‘truck’ application were sprung vs unsprung weight is not an issue.

From personal experience I can say that the stock turbo brakes are better for every day (US not autobahn!) driving than the big reds….track driving is a different story

Chris White

PS – Trivia for the day – “cross drilling’ brake rotors started with the 917 – the purpose was to lighten the rotors, nothing to do with all the other theories about gas venting and such.

You are right Chris........But the weight diffrence from big reds to Cayenne calipers is no all that great. Maybe a can try to offset some of the mass with drill rotors.

Regards,
AL

why not cross drill the caliper?

fluid would probably leak....

But let us know how it goes.

it was a joke.
as far as new things on my car? not much... I raised compression some, which doesnt seem very common, as well as all the headwork I did. (D-porting, fully radiused valves, and valve seats, and back cut vavles, port matched intake mani, ti retainers, milled .050)
I bet not one person on here has a spintech muufler on their car either. i bought it used, but i like the sound. Dunno if its any good though.
~Eyal

Eyal how did you raise the compression?................... and how much?

Reagards,
AL

i milled the head .050... I don't know exactly how much its been raised, but its estimated about 8.5:1 instead of stock 8:1.
Its slightly noticeable, not night and day however. there is more off boost response, and on boost seems to pull nicer. I think the head is almost useless with the K26, but once i continue to upgrade, it will be worth the money.
also, my car is not fully tuned, and runs quite rich (wideband shows as low as 10:1 AF ratios sometime, but usually stays between 10:1 and 11:1) once it isn't coating my rear end in black, I'mm be able to get a better feel for the upgrades.
~Eyal

I had one for a little while, but I sold my Lindsey exhaust and bought a SFR. It had an OK sound. I think I prefer a straight through design.

About the brakes, I think there are a lot of misconceptions on brake sizing. Chris touched on one of the misconceptions, that bigger is not always better.

In simplest terms, a properly sized brake setup will allow you to reach the threshold of locking under the conditions you expect to operate. The biggest issue an engineer sizing brakes has to overcome is brake fade. This is a function of heat dissipation. Which all things being equal (ventilation, fluids and pads), is a function of the brake caliper and rotor sizing (simplified as you could have exotic materials). Basically you need to be able to dissipate enough heat between the most rigorous application of your brakes to not experience fade or complete failure.

Sooooo...if you are repeatedly slowing a 3000lb 700hp 951 from 180mph to 30mph for a hairpin at the end of a short straight and then applying the brakes for 15 more turns you are more likely to need much bigger brakes than stock.

If you are slowing that same 3000lb 700hp 951 from 180mph to 65mph because your Valentine One just sh*t itself you are less likely to need much bigger brakes than stock (if bigger at all).

Do you need huge Cayenne brakes, or big blacks/reds? Well, do you experience fade? If so, then you might need something bigger (assuming your fluid, pads and venting is maxed out), but like Chris said don't oversize it.

BTW, if you just want to stop faster, get stickier tires, lose some weight or add downforce, that is all that will help you (well maybe brake biasing too).