Dipstick Tube to intake mounting bolt...
#17
I use a regular wrench for some of it and a 1/4" ratchet for some of it. I have to squeeze the ratchet and socket on there and hold the socket the entire time. It is annoying but it took me about 5 minutes. Although I wish I would have left the car on jack stands so I wouldn't have to bend over so much.
#18
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Tom: How do you remove the intake manifold with the fuel rail on? there will always be one intake manifold bolt, near the fuel pressure damper, that cannot be reached and risking stripping the bolt.
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
#20
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Originally Posted by special tool
Hosrom - that bolt attaches the rail to the manifold.
I do the same thing, about 1000 times - so don't come back and insinuate that we are wrong (I know you!!!)
I do the same thing, about 1000 times - so don't come back and insinuate that we are wrong (I know you!!!)
Originally Posted by hosrom_951
To tighten it, use a 1/4" rachet with some extentions and a swivel........works like a charm everytime
Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Tom: How do you remove the intake manifold with the fuel rail on? there will always be one intake manifold bolt, near the fuel pressure damper, that cannot be reached and risking stripping the bolt.
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
I'm lost????
#21
Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Tom: How do you remove the intake manifold with the fuel rail on? there will always be one intake manifold bolt, near the fuel pressure damper, that cannot be reached and risking stripping the bolt.
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
#22
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Tom: How do you remove the intake manifold with the fuel rail on? there will always be one intake manifold bolt, near the fuel pressure damper, that cannot be reached and risking stripping the bolt.
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
And what do you guys mean by 'slotting' the bracket?
I use a ball head allen socket on a slight angle. No risk of stripping for me, since the bolts have been in and out a lot lately. (Probably a different story for old crusty bolts that have been installed undisturbed for years on end.)
#23
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If you like to remove you manifold often you might consider replacing the manifold bolts with studs and nuts. The head threads will only last so long before starting to fail. The stud technique also is great for locating the intake gaskets! I used nylock nuts and it works fine!
Chris White
Chris White
#26
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Chris: I went for the stud conversion for the intake manifold earlier this year, you can get ALL the hardware (studs, nuts and washers) from Krik down at Zims. If Zims didn't change the price, this is what i paid for them :
$3.50 ea x 8 = $28.00 studs
$.35 ea x 8 = $2.80 nuts
$.19 ea x 8 = $1.52 washers
$32.32 Total
However, i removed the studs and went back to the factory set-up since i had a leak from the manifold (had nothing to do with the studs). Will put them back in once i finish doing what i am doing!
$3.50 ea x 8 = $28.00 studs
$.35 ea x 8 = $2.80 nuts
$.19 ea x 8 = $1.52 washers
$32.32 Total
However, i removed the studs and went back to the factory set-up since i had a leak from the manifold (had nothing to do with the studs). Will put them back in once i finish doing what i am doing!