My on again, off again Turbo...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My on again, off again Turbo...
Symptoms are these:
Turn on the car, and when it reaches operating temperature, sometimes the turbo will not kick in on acceleration (flooring it) but the needle reads right past the middle (1 bar) mark on the stock gauge.
Turn off the car, turn it back on, and flooring it again, presto! The turbo kicks in.
Every time the problem resurfaces, I can correct it by shutting off the car and restarting it.
Any ideas as to what could be happening here?
TIA
Turn on the car, and when it reaches operating temperature, sometimes the turbo will not kick in on acceleration (flooring it) but the needle reads right past the middle (1 bar) mark on the stock gauge.
Turn off the car, turn it back on, and flooring it again, presto! The turbo kicks in.
Every time the problem resurfaces, I can correct it by shutting off the car and restarting it.
Any ideas as to what could be happening here?
TIA
#3
Sounds like the computer is going into limp home mode. It will only boost to about 1.2 bar. Like Ski said, you need to diagnose what is causing it to go into that mode. I had this problem recently and it turned out to be a bad klr computer. Check Lindsey's website on how to make a cheap LED blink code tool. If you don't have access to the factory manuals they also have the codes deciphered.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK, here's another one for the archives: problem solved!
Turns out the DME relay was original on the car (Oct 1990 date on it) and was starting to fail.
It occurred to me to replace the relay the other day when the car wouldn't start until I cranked it several times. Replaced the relay and the turbo kicks in normally and it hasn't refused to start since.
I appreciate the responses!
Turns out the DME relay was original on the car (Oct 1990 date on it) and was starting to fail.
It occurred to me to replace the relay the other day when the car wouldn't start until I cranked it several times. Replaced the relay and the turbo kicks in normally and it hasn't refused to start since.
I appreciate the responses!
#7
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Check the connection on top of the cycling valve. More than likely a bad cycling valve.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
The car has around 112K km, so these items should start failing, I guess. Does the intake manifold need to come out to replace the cycling valve? TIA again!
The car has around 112K km, so these items should start failing, I guess. Does the intake manifold need to come out to replace the cycling valve? TIA again!
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK, so I was preparing to replace the CV with a new unit when someone suggested it's not the problem. Car has a new DME relay.
Your ideas are welcome before I pull the intake manifold to replace the CV.
TIA
Your ideas are welcome before I pull the intake manifold to replace the CV.
TIA
#14
Nordschleife Master
You can disconnect the line from the CV to the WG. This causes the WG to stay shut at all times, until the exhaust gases overpower the WG spring. With the wastegate shut, all exhaust gases will route to the turbine. Drive around like this for a bit and see how the turbo works. It should boost to 2+bar easily. Try not to overboost the engine by driving WOT, just give her a little gas and see if the turbo is spooling.
If it works fine, you KNOW there is something amiss with the CV.
If it works fine, you KNOW there is something amiss with the CV.