My on again, off again Turbo...
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm sorry, I still say read the blink codes. I can't see it being the cycling valve. He only has 112k km on the car the cycling valve should be just fine. The cycling valve is working, it does boost properly sometimes leading me to believe that there is something else wrong - it is going into limp mode. If it was a failing cycling valve it wouldn't matter if he rebooted the system, it would come on and off randomly as he was driving the car. The cycling valve is too simple to just stop working, then start again with a restart.
That being said, I'd love to find a cycling valve that works the same way, but is made of metal. I hate those freaking plastic nipples that always threaten to break off.
I stand by my diagnosis, it's not the cycling valve. Maybe I'm wrong.
Dal.
That being said, I'd love to find a cycling valve that works the same way, but is made of metal. I hate those freaking plastic nipples that always threaten to break off.
I stand by my diagnosis, it's not the cycling valve. Maybe I'm wrong.
Dal.
#18
Lazer Beam Shooter
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Wont the car run in limp mode on knock? So maybe the car is knocking sometimes and causing it to run in limp mode. Could this be a shatty knock sensor or am I way off.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Rock, you're right on. It won't go into safe mode until it reads a certain number of knock events in a certain time.
Who knows? I don't have the car in front of me. It's tough to diagnose on the internet.
Dal.
Who knows? I don't have the car in front of me. It's tough to diagnose on the internet.
Dal.
#22
Instructor
Luis, check here for blink code instructions:
http://members.rennlist.com/951_race...linkCodes.html
Your problem can have many sources.....
- I would not rule out the CV, although other things are probably more likely.
- I suggest you check, clean and use contact spray on the ThrottlePositionSensor and AirFlowMonitor connectors - this is quite easy. There are of course many other electrical connectors to check as well....
Cheers,
Tommy
http://members.rennlist.com/951_race...linkCodes.html
Your problem can have many sources.....
- I would not rule out the CV, although other things are probably more likely.
- I suggest you check, clean and use contact spray on the ThrottlePositionSensor and AirFlowMonitor connectors - this is quite easy. There are of course many other electrical connectors to check as well....
Cheers,
Tommy
#23
My car (89 951 with 113100 on the clock ) did this same thing while it still had the restrictor valve in the Banjo bolt. When I went to an MBC and bypassed the cycling valve it stopped so maybe the cycling valve suggestion is right on?
IPSC
IPSC
#24
Lazer Beam Shooter
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Argh I LOVE turbo cabriolets. Theyre so beautiful. Luis, your car could have no motor, and you could ride flintstones style everywhere, it would still be beautiful.
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by IPSC
My car (89 951 with 113100 on the clock ) did this same thing while it still had the restrictor valve in the Banjo bolt. When I went to an MBC and bypassed the cycling valve it stopped so maybe the cycling valve suggestion is right on?
IPSC
IPSC
I personally would not bypass the cycling valve. If you think that you can hear knock at high rpms (where it is most likely to happen and cause damage) then good for you. I'm not willing to take that chance.
Fix the problem, don't put a band-aid to mask it.
Just my opinion. I'd rather fix the cause of the problems, whatever they are.
Dal.
#26
The Manual boost control bypassing the cycling valve is not a band aid fix.I am running a TIAL 38mm in single port mode it is necesary to do it that way or at least that is what the Tial people explained to me.
IPSC
IPSC
#28
I gotta start puttin my mods in the sig line or something, mine is far from stock. It has a MAF with chips and a K27 among other goddies that I am constantly messing with. But, my strange overboost go into limp mode thing went away when I went to the MBC.
IPSC
IPSC
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Right, the "strange overboost go into limp mode" will go away with a manual controller because you're taking the CV which controls boost and tells you you're in limp mode out of the system. Did this start happening when you went to the K27? Did you get chips for the K27? I'm just interested.
The Tial (single port) shouldn't have made a difference because all the CV does is provide pressure to the system (just like a manual boost controller) under the control of the KLR. The KLR uses closed loop feedback to control the pressure via the CV, it should have adjusted the pressure as it needed. Was the line to the wastegate in good shape or even connected to the cv? Those little plastic nipples love to break off over time and many heat cycles.
Oh well, to each their own. I'm currently not willing to remove that safety feature. I'd love to be able to set up a check engine light for these cars though!
Dal.
The Tial (single port) shouldn't have made a difference because all the CV does is provide pressure to the system (just like a manual boost controller) under the control of the KLR. The KLR uses closed loop feedback to control the pressure via the CV, it should have adjusted the pressure as it needed. Was the line to the wastegate in good shape or even connected to the cv? Those little plastic nipples love to break off over time and many heat cycles.
Oh well, to each their own. I'm currently not willing to remove that safety feature. I'd love to be able to set up a check engine light for these cars though!
Dal.