hally

Well i've found 3 intake boost / vacuum leaks after building a little PVC end cap thingo with a valve to plug into the intercooler and pressurize which worked superbly ( leaks => heater control valve, idle stabilizer, and vacuum hose / join under throttle body) and so i need to take the intake manifold off.
I don't have a torque wrench as yet and was wondering how much i will need to spend to get something up to the job. (20Nm for intake manifold retaining bolts described on clarks-garage.com)
thanks.

mark944turbo

Go to sears and buy 2, one inch pound one and one foot pound one. Make sure the inch pound one goes down to like 60 inch pounds or so and the foot pound one up to 210 nm for the crank bolt. If they overlap you will be able to torque every bolt on the 951 (just about).

The craftsman ones at sears are pretty good and reasonably priced. Remember to turn the torque down for storage to keep them calibrated.

theedge

A second vote for Craftsmen torque wrenches. I have a pair of them, one of them older than my car or I I got a little one for all the small stuff (oil pan bolts, balance shaft covers, etc) and the larger one goes up to 160FT/LBS I think, for big stuff like suspension and crank bolts. The small one goes from just a few ft/lbs up to 25 or so. Big one covers 10 or 15 ft/lbs up to 160+ like I said.

Great warrenty as usual, and I just got the big one recalibrated and parts were available and cheap. All the new parts for it were $25CDN.

fortysixandtwo

If you decide to get them from Craftsman, spend a little extra for the digi torque models. They are much easier to read the torque settings.

CurlyDE

My vote is for the Craftsman torque wrenches also ... I have three of them. Great investment.

Jfrahm

Unless you use them all the time and get the calibration checked regularly, I suggest beam type torque wrenches. the click types can lose calibration, especially if you forget to return them to zero. The beam types are accurate, repeat well, and are pretty hard to goof up. If nothing else get one to check your click wrench with.

-Joel.

z3bra

Are you talking about the ones with the small magnifying lens in the handle? I have one of those and I couldn't disagree more. That thing can be a total pain in the butt to read if the lens gets dirty from your hands. Other than that I like it but sometimes reading the settings can be a nuisance. I generally like the micrometer types for ease of reading in clicker torque wrenches.

Also for an inch pound one, Home Depot has a pretty decent one available in 3/8" drive. I haven't got any gripes with that one at all and it goes pretty low. I originally got that for the oil pan bolts on my old Datsun since they were 8 or 10 Ft lbs and I got sick of the damn thing getting dimpled from being on the low end of most foot pound wrenches and getting overtorqued by looking at it crosseyed or with the wrong look on your face.

z3bra

According to my time in the US Army's helicopter repair program, you should return them to 30% of the max value of the wrench to maintain the best accuracy.

Apparently many of our tax dollars were spent on a study to determine the best value to leave them at for storage and 30% is the figure that study decided was best. Yes I'm serious, they really did spend money researching this so I figure that the least I can do is spread the word so everyone gets the best value for their tax dollars.

As to whether or not this really makes a difference in the real world I don't know, but it seems reasonable. Just figured I'd throw it out there and if anyone has heard otherwise, speak up, this was about 10 years ago so maybe they did another study in that time period.

mark944turbo

"Yes I'm serious, they really did spend money researching this so I figure that the least I can do is spread the word so everyone gets the best value for their tax dollars. "



IMO click type is way more convenient. Sometimes it is impossible to see the dial at a square angle and it leads to mistakes.

JPhillips-998

I have had both craftsman and snap-on and highly recommend snap-on. The handles came loose on both my inch and ft lbs. wrenches which obviously put them out of calibration. That and the hassle of having to unwind them to 0 or 30% (according to the post above) made me look at the snap-on wrenches. With the "TQFR" series the setting is simply and they do not have to be unwound. I got both of mine on Ebay for just a bit more than new craftsman and am very satisfied.

Can you provide more information on the vacuum tester that you made. Where on clarks garage?

fortysixandtwo

Yes, those are the ones I'm talking about. I've never had a problem with reading the setting. Usually that wrench isn't used until all the parts and are clean and being reassembled with clean hands. But I do see your point if the lens becomes scratch of foggy.

z3bra

Mine was used when I got it but for 15 bucks I couldn't resist. Someone traded it in to the Mac tools guy for a competitive upgrade and it was in pretty good condition overall.

And I wholly agree, that the click type is far more convenient, (at the cost of a little accuracy) I really hated torquing big stuff on stuff like the pins that hold the blades to the rotorhead to 600 Ft lbs using a big giant dial indicator torque wrench. It was bad enough trying not to fall off without adding watching the dial to the mix. Oh well, it was still fun for the most part.

hally

thanks for the info everyone.
ps a couple of people were asking me about my intake pressure tester.
I used a 50mm pvc pipe with a 50mm end cap, bicycle valve in the end cap, pipe connects snuggly into the stock intercooler rubber connector. Went down to the local servo which has a compressor where you can set the desired pressure. Listened for leaks with some fuel hose, soapy water is suppose to be good too, will try that in round 2. The leaking heater control valve being on the other side of the blue/black one way valve is not exposed to boost, i found that by hearing air rushing through heater vacuum hoses under the dash when the temp dial is turned down. WHen i pulled the vacuum hose off the hcv and plugged it, the movement of air stopped through the under dash hoses.

Randy_J

HAZET makes very nice tq wrenches

KuHL 951

I posted a similar problem after doing a venturi delete. Under boost above 5psi I would hear a serious leak/hiss coming from behind the dash. I figured it was the same vac line operating the damper doors. I thought the brake booster check valve is supposed to prevent boost from getting there. I'm thinking my brake booster check valve must be bad or the heater control vac line is on the wrong side of the valve. It doesn't drop boost any that I can see, still making a good 16psi but the hiss is something awful. One more thing to put on the list. So you are saying a bad heater control valve will do this?