Dark Lightning

Water volume control depends on how much money you want to spend. The more sophisticated approach is to use a high speed solenoid from Aquamist (which behaves like a fuel injector) while I believe the cheaper way is to vary the pump's supplied voltage.

Check valves: the good, the bad, and the ugly. Under 'normal' conditions they work great but they have a flaw I ran into with my previous car. The Aquamist check valves have a 1bar crack pressure, meaning they need at least 1bar of water pressure in order to begin flowing in the proper direction (15bar is required, by the way, to flow in the wrong direction).

What I found was that if the pump ran dry (emptied the tank) then I refilled it and ran again, the pump (a ShurFlo) doesn't pump air very well. It wasn't able to pump 1bar of air to open the check valve and get the water flowing again. In the end I used a solenoid (mounted immediately pre-check valve) as a purge, much like a nitrous purge, which allowed me to vent air out of the system.

For my current car I avoided all of that hassle by only mounting the check valve on the water injection nozzle's hose. My hose path goes like this:

Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-4 way splitter -> direct line to intercooler nozzle #1 (1.0mm)
Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-4 way splitter -> direct line to intercooler nozzle #2 (1.0mm)
Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-4 way splitter -> check valve -> water injection nozzle (0.8mm)
Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-4 way splitter -> (blocked) (unused)

If an air bubble goes get into the system, it'll work it way out the intercooler nozzles where I don't care if there's some sputtering or a temporarily poor misting pattern. You might consider installing one intercooler sprayer nozzle (pointing towards the hot end of the IC) and run the plumbing like so:

Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-2 way splitter -> direct line to intercooler nozzle (1.0mm)
Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-2 way splitter -> check valve -> water injection nozzle (1.0mm)

NZ951

I am not sure what I will do with the IC sprayer yet, I want to run a different duty cycle to the IC than the intake...

Dark Lightning

Well then:

Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-2 way splitter -> solenoid -> direct line to intercooler nozzle (1.0mm)
Tank -> pump -> 4mm Aquamist line -> 1-to-2 way splitter -> solenoid -> check valve -> water injection nozzle (1.0mm)

Dark Lightning

I'm just warning you that the Aquamist high speed solenoid is PRICEY.

NZ951

I have the ERL pump, got it cheap and the whole thing will be controlled with Link PWM outputs. So a little money to get it right will still be a cheap setup.

So the solenoid can be controlled independently of eachother? What signal does it take?

Dark Lightning

Most guys size the nozzle appropriately then run the high speed solenoid off a fuel injector wire (with all the correct wiring to keep the circuit's resistance correct). More fuel, more water, constant 10% ratio.

Dark Lightning

Now if you have a solenoid in the loop, there's no real need for a check valve since the water flow is completely and absolutely blocked. Just remember to make the nozzle the highest point in the system to prevent draining.

NZ951

Sweet that will be easy... with the IC nozzle, the new Link has a controller to set on and off time too... should be sweet

NZ951

F-me $230??? looks like I will just setup the intake first then add the IC later...

Dark Lightning