Engine rebuild myself?
07-13-2005, 12:28 AM
#1
Race Car
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Engine rebuild myself?
Never rebuilt and engine before, should I not try my hand at a 951 as my first rebuild?
I have all the parts and a freshened block (alusil work done by a machine shop), but I need some of the tools of the trade.
I'm sick of waiting for my car to be finished, and 10 months is more than enough standing around time waiting on this mechanic "friend". I've paid him more than enough money and paid for all the parts myself.
What does everyone think? Anyone in the upstate NY are willing to lend a hand?
I have all the parts and a freshened block (alusil work done by a machine shop), but I need some of the tools of the trade.
I'm sick of waiting for my car to be finished, and 10 months is more than enough standing around time waiting on this mechanic "friend". I've paid him more than enough money and paid for all the parts myself.
What does everyone think? Anyone in the upstate NY are willing to lend a hand?
07-13-2005, 12:51 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
I am doing this now. It all comes down to sourcing parts and tools, collecting knowledge, and making some judgment calls on how **** you want to be. If you plan to refresh everything you can, as I am, plan to spend more money than it's worth. Also, just when you think you have "all the parts" you discover 150 more little things you need to order. Having said that, I'd do it again, at least so far. 
You'll never learn more, faster, about the car and its motor.
You'll never learn more, faster, about the car and its motor.
07-13-2005, 01:24 AM
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
the block was done, the head was done, i bought a rebuild kit, i bought raceware headstuds, i bought a new water pump, i bought a clutch, i bought a timing/balance shaft kit, i bought new injectors/fuel rail, i bought a new(er) turbo and downpipe. there is a huge pile of parts, just none of them going together. i'm sure there is plenty i am missing, but i know i have a majority of it already (at least i hope).
if i wasn't being screwed over so bad with no end in sight, i'd be patient. but i have a lot of money tied up and nothing to show for it. waiting is so frustrating....
if i wasn't being screwed over so bad with no end in sight, i'd be patient. but i have a lot of money tied up and nothing to show for it. waiting is so frustrating....
07-13-2005, 11:28 AM
#7
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OS, from my experiences, which come from working on friends' rebuilds, anyone should be able to do it.
These are the lessons I learned from my friends mistakes:
1. Take your time. Don't hurry anything.
2. Stay obsessively organized. Bag all bolts and parts. Document all steps taken on disassembly.
3. Be as precise as possible. Torque every bolt to spec. Make sure your torque wrenches are calibrated.
4. Replace hardware where you can afford to.
5. Keep your workspace extraordinarily clean. Think operating room.
6. Plan all steps like you would plan a project at your work. Possibly use a program like MS Project to track your progress.
7. Always use the correct tools. Don't fudge on anything.
8. Clean all threads. Pick up one of these: http://www.kastar.com/rethreaders.htm
9. Follow the installation instructions of aftermarket head studs to an absolute tee.
These are all the things I can think of right now. Good luck.
These are the lessons I learned from my friends mistakes:
1. Take your time. Don't hurry anything.
2. Stay obsessively organized. Bag all bolts and parts. Document all steps taken on disassembly.
3. Be as precise as possible. Torque every bolt to spec. Make sure your torque wrenches are calibrated.
4. Replace hardware where you can afford to.
5. Keep your workspace extraordinarily clean. Think operating room.
6. Plan all steps like you would plan a project at your work. Possibly use a program like MS Project to track your progress.
7. Always use the correct tools. Don't fudge on anything.
8. Clean all threads. Pick up one of these: http://www.kastar.com/rethreaders.htm
9. Follow the installation instructions of aftermarket head studs to an absolute tee.
These are all the things I can think of right now. Good luck.
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07-13-2005, 11:33 AM
#8
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<<<I am doing this now. It all comes down to sourcing parts and tools, collecting knowledge, and making some judgment calls on how **** you want to be. If you plan to refresh everything you can, as I am, plan to spend more money than it's worth. Also, just when you think you have "all the parts" you discover 150 more little things you need to order. Having said that, I'd do it again, at least so far. You'll never learn more, faster, about the car and its motor.>>>
Same here... I'm right in the middle of mine. It is pretty easy and rewarding once you get started!
Same here... I'm right in the middle of mine. It is pretty easy and rewarding once you get started!
07-13-2005, 11:34 AM
#9
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Feel free to give me a call with any questions. Too swamped to drop by and give advice but let me know if you need any ‘verbal’ help!
The first tip – you can never be too clean when assembling an engine!
Second tip – don’t rush it, things need to be checked and double checked during assembly
Third tip - use the torque specs in the manual – even on the little M10 and M8 bolts – very easy to strip them if you tighten by feel.
Fourth tip – buy the expensive engine stand with that rotates with a hand crank – defiantly worth it. ($175 +/-). I have two of them in use at all times.
Fifth tip – chase all the tapped block holes while cleaning up the block – other wise the torque specs don’t mean much.
Chris White
The first tip – you can never be too clean when assembling an engine!
Second tip – don’t rush it, things need to be checked and double checked during assembly
Third tip - use the torque specs in the manual – even on the little M10 and M8 bolts – very easy to strip them if you tighten by feel.
Fourth tip – buy the expensive engine stand with that rotates with a hand crank – defiantly worth it. ($175 +/-). I have two of them in use at all times.
Fifth tip – chase all the tapped block holes while cleaning up the block – other wise the torque specs don’t mean much.
Chris White
07-13-2005, 12:55 PM
#10
Jane Bond 007
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I did all these things. I also set the ref sensors (new ones) and TPS before even trying to start the car. She fired up on the first try and purred like a kitten! 
07-13-2005, 01:15 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
Definetely go for it...
Michelle,
Purred like a kittin eh? Mine was a big smokey monster that wouldn't hold steady revs the first time I started it up.
Purrs like a kitten now though...
Congrats
Michelle,
Purred like a kittin eh? Mine was a big smokey monster that wouldn't hold steady revs the first time I started it up.
Purrs like a kitten now though...
Congrats
07-13-2005, 01:25 PM
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I have seen these used:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&bidsite=CRAFT
It is made by Kastar and rebranded by Snap-on, Craftsman and I think MAC or Matco. It shouldn't be too tough to find. It is similar to a tap, but it is only designed to clean, not cut.
There may be other options, but I am not aware of them.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&bidsite=CRAFT
It is made by Kastar and rebranded by Snap-on, Craftsman and I think MAC or Matco. It shouldn't be too tough to find. It is similar to a tap, but it is only designed to clean, not cut.
There may be other options, but I am not aware of them.