Laust - IC nozzles...
06-23-2005, 07:57 PM
#46
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He did move it...actually he moved it right across from the BOV port. 
The bottom line is that for $150 you can do a good IC sprayer...but for $300 you can get a good WI kit with greater benefits.
The IC sprayer does still have a benefit as it works to prevent heatsoak which can still occur with WI.
The bottom line is that for $150 you can do a good IC sprayer...but for $300 you can get a good WI kit with greater benefits.
The IC sprayer does still have a benefit as it works to prevent heatsoak which can still occur with WI.
06-23-2005, 08:39 PM
#47
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Oh I thought he moved it slightly downstream of the BOV...
You can make an IC sprayer for less than $150 though, depending how handy you are, and a WI kit with a better controller is obviously much more. As you know they are not substitute products, I will be having both and will be able to report on how much more timing can go in etc once its up and running. Still not decided on the controller though, I may see if I can get one made.
You can make an IC sprayer for less than $150 though, depending how handy you are, and a WI kit with a better controller is obviously much more. As you know they are not substitute products, I will be having both and will be able to report on how much more timing can go in etc once its up and running. Still not decided on the controller though, I may see if I can get one made.
06-23-2005, 10:39 PM
#48
Now correct me if I'm wrong but the Snow Performance kit varies water volume by changing the pump's voltage, correct?
Eh, well, the relationship is similar to that. Since the amount of injected water is based purely on the volume of fuel injected, more boost means more fuel and more fuel means more water. The fuel/water ratio should very closely match the air/fuel ratio without much effort (using the Snow controller.)
Originally Posted by NZ951
Yeah thats $129, but assumes a linear relationship between boost and required water.
06-23-2005, 10:56 PM
#49
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I would think changing the voltage is the only way they could do it... unless their is a variable valve in the line to the nozzle. I would think atomisation would suffer in that way though.
The controller is good for the money and I will likely use it if I cant get one made, but I certainly dont have a linear fuel curve up to boost, I run a little leaner to help spool. But as you say, its probably close enough. Its just such a black art at the moment, and the risk is huge if it fails, I want as much science in it as possible! Those calculations in the links may help determine the injector size
The controller is good for the money and I will likely use it if I cant get one made, but I certainly dont have a linear fuel curve up to boost, I run a little leaner to help spool. But as you say, its probably close enough. Its just such a black art at the moment, and the risk is huge if it fails, I want as much science in it as possible! Those calculations in the links may help determine the injector size
06-24-2005, 01:12 AM
#51
Originally Posted by NZ951
Those calculations in the links may help determine the injector size
06-24-2005, 01:38 AM
#52
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Hey Guys,
Not to highjack this thread but I think you guys are bucking
up the wrong tree. Have you guys not notice that the intake is
really hot due to heat soak ? So why not address that problem
first before going with IC spray ? To me it seems pointless to
cool the IC when it's gonna get heated again at the intake.
If you can reduce the heat at the intake by 10-20 degrees, you're
getting free hp without added complications right ? Once that
is address than the next step would be IC water spray.
If you wanna kill two birds with one stone, why not just take the
WI approach with a system like Aquamist ?
Not to highjack this thread but I think you guys are bucking
up the wrong tree. Have you guys not notice that the intake is
really hot due to heat soak ? So why not address that problem
first before going with IC spray ? To me it seems pointless to
cool the IC when it's gonna get heated again at the intake.
If you can reduce the heat at the intake by 10-20 degrees, you're
getting free hp without added complications right ? Once that
is address than the next step would be IC water spray.
If you wanna kill two birds with one stone, why not just take the
WI approach with a system like Aquamist ?
06-24-2005, 01:50 PM
#54
Burning Brakes
Or, more efficiently vent the both IC and the engine bay, so more cooling air can flow through the IC, keeping it AND the engine bay cooler. With stock configuration, the front bumper intake position for the IC cooling air is probably optimal, but the air cannot efficiently escape downstream from the IC--just adds more engine bay hot air. What's needed is a fish-like gill to extract both IC and radiator exhaust air.
06-24-2005, 04:41 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by Dash01
What's needed is a fish-like gill to extract both IC and radiator exhaust air.
I have been pondering these louvers, would like to have them stamped in my hood like the old school hot rods, but no luck finding anybody to do it.
