Doing the brakes!
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I just bought all the stuff to do a complete brake job on the car. All new rotors, pads, and two things of super blue fluid. Is there anything else that I should buy for the procedure? How difficult is this job?
Thanks, Josh
Thanks, Josh
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It's pretty easy. I just did the front rotors this weekend. Make sure you have a torque wrench for the rotor to hub bolts so you torque them even. Clean the new rotors before installing. You may want to consider cleaning, inspecting, and repacking the front bearings if this has not been done for awhile since you will have the hubs off.
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Silver: You would also need a torque wrench for the caliper mounting bolts, when i replaced the brake master cylinder, it took just under 1 liter of super blue brake fluid for a full flush (sorry SD, i don't know what 30-40 oz is equivilant to
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I second the notion of repacking/replacing the front bearings... its easy to do while they're off.. I did all four rotors, pads, brake fluid a few months ago.. pretty easy. If you do the bearings, make sure you bring your hubs to a shop (NAPA auto parts here) to have the old bearing races taken out and new ones pressed in.. Trying to do them yourself is basically impossible. Also, do make sure to get the anti-squel pads.. I picked mine up from Pep boys, they're well worth it!
Btw, what kind of pads are you putting on?
Btw, what kind of pads are you putting on?
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Originally Posted by silverbullet
I just bought all the stuff to do a complete brake job on the car. All new rotors, pads, and two things of super blue fluid. Is there anything else that I should buy for the procedure? How difficult is this job?
Thanks, Josh
Thanks, Josh
Anyone remember the torque spec for the caliper bolts? Lug nuts are 95 ft/lbs each.
Originally Posted by a4944
have a torque wrench for the rotor to hub bolts
Originally Posted by a4944
since you will have the hubs off.
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For clarification, the front rotors and hubs come off as a unit, after removing the collar from the spindel, then there are (I think) 5 bolts that hold the rotor+hub together.
The rear hubs are behind the rear rotors, so there are only one or two screws on each rotor that actually attaches them to the hub, you take those screws off and the rear rotors slide right off (after removing the caliper of course) and the hub stays on.
The rear hubs are behind the rear rotors, so there are only one or two screws on each rotor that actually attaches them to the hub, you take those screws off and the rear rotors slide right off (after removing the caliper of course) and the hub stays on.
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Yeah, I just changed my order at Paragon to 2 cans of fluid. I think each can is around 33 oz/1 lt. I will definately post an update on the feel of the Metal Masters. Right now my brakes are horrible. Minimum rotor thickness on all sides and no bleeding done in at least three years! Thanks guys!
-Josh
-Josh
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Be verry careful with the sensors, they are brittle from the heat they are exposed to. Can be reused if you can get them out I get about them out 1/2 the time without breaking them.
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You can definately get a flush done in a single can of superblue. I've just done one.
Get some speedbleeders, and a pressure bleeder. Makes it a 5-minute, 1 man operation.
Make sure you have some copper or aluminium grease for the pads, and get a small wire brush to clean the crud off of the guide plates. A bungee cord will come in handy to hold the caliper when you're changing the pads and the caliper is off.
I would replace the sensors for what they cost. Get originals though. Aftermarket ones aren't so good.
And if you're doing the whole lot, get 4 axle stands and take the all the wheels off at once. To have to go around the car, change the pads/rotors, then go round again (remember the bleed sequence) is a PITA.
Get some speedbleeders, and a pressure bleeder. Makes it a 5-minute, 1 man operation.
Make sure you have some copper or aluminium grease for the pads, and get a small wire brush to clean the crud off of the guide plates. A bungee cord will come in handy to hold the caliper when you're changing the pads and the caliper is off.
I would replace the sensors for what they cost. Get originals though. Aftermarket ones aren't so good.
And if you're doing the whole lot, get 4 axle stands and take the all the wheels off at once. To have to go around the car, change the pads/rotors, then go round again (remember the bleed sequence) is a PITA.