MachSchnell

Hello all,

After searching, I still can't find anything that lays out the tuning process (specifically with the hand held) for the Link MAP kit - unfortunately I bought mine used, and it never included the LINK manual etc, just the MAP installation kit...does anyone have an online reference they could point me to? Still fighting with the off idle stumble, and a few other issues, but I want to get myself acquainted with the way this is supposed to be done before I start screwing around. If anyone can suggest what's worked well for them with an 89 k26/8 with just MAPII, 18psi chips, and exhaust, I'd be happy to compare with that as well to make sure I'm following the right path.

Thanks all, much obliged.

NZ951

www.link-electro.co.nz

or cantact Neil at Performance Developments. You can get a manual off them. I suspect the accel and decay settings will be set too high if you get stumble, or your values are too wide apart in the changing zones in timing or fuel.

MachSchnell

Any link to Neil's site? Having trouble locating the actual contact info in the searches.

Thx NZ, I appreciate the quick follow up, it's paining me not to be out tuning my car at this point...

mark944turbo

www.gururacing.net Search there for some rennlist posts about tuning. Or just search here for "tuning the link map". Some good posts have been written by OZ951 on the subject.

Shameless plug, if anyone wants to buy my stage 1, $500 email or pm me! mwn25@msn.com

MachSchnell

I read OZ's posts, you're right, they are phenomenal, but probably more in depth than I'm ready for - I really need to just get an idea of what different things do - I've heard a lot of reference to accel and decay and large boxes and small boxes etc and I have no idea what any of these things are. I apologize for my newbieness with this, I just can't find the original link manual in any of the posts etc when I search.

MachSchnell

Well, just spoke with Neil, he is a very cool guy, sending the instructions on Monday, however, if anybody has this either faxable or emailable it would help me immensely - I really would like to get this thing taken care of over the weekend, at least getting it to a driveable point - it almost seems like EVERY cell was set to 0% change, and I'm finding a lot of lean spots, even with my crappo a/f meter so any help is appreciated!

NZ951

The manual is nearly 100 pages I think... PS if you have a crappo AF gauge, get a good one. You dont want to be fine tuning off a NB setup. A Tech Edge 2CO or similar is a good cheap alternative.

MachSchnell

Believe me, I was waiting on installing this whole shebang until I had the $ for 55# injectors AND a WB02 setup, unfortunately, a crushing blow to my slow and steady approach (busted J-boot) has forced my hand and I really have no choice but to install and get this thing at least safe to drive on the street. Combine this with the December loss of my job and resulting financial stress of starting my own company, and I really have no option other than the mickey mouse this tuning - at this point I don't even have the $ for a dyno day - so this is why I'm in such a jam with the whole install. I guess a 100 page manual ain't the thing to fax, which is I guess why neil was going to mail it (bless his heart). I guess I'll just have to play around gently until I find a rough idea of what I'm doing, and wait for the bible to show up.

Thanks for all the help guys, I truly do appreciate it.

NZ951

Do a search for Link ignition map as well, I have started a thread on it a while ago, that will give you an idea for timing. I suggest you tune your idle, then cruise, then WOT.

MachSchnell

Also,
In the hopes of getting this sucker safe to drive for the next couple days, does ANYONE have a k26/8 baseline cell map of how their thing is set up? I have the guru 18psi chips (though I'll be turning the boost down to 15psi max until I can afford the 55# injectors) and not much else - wastegate and boost controller to make sure the boost is steady, and exhaust, but I think I can interpolate from values if anyone could help out with this...

Edit - with regards to NZ's latest post - I didn't think the Link AFM allowed for timing changes - did I miss something, or was that more for the Link 2 users out there?

TIA again,

NZ951

Yes, that was in case you want to look at timing in your chips after you have tuned fuel. This link may help with your manual.

http://www.link-electro.co.nz/interceptlink.html

MachSchnell

Thanks for the link NZ - I think that's still a bit more modern version of the link afm setup I have - there are (I think?) way more parameters that can be adjusted than what I'm working with. I think the biggest help at this point would be (if anybody is willing to share this) getting a sort of baseline link/map cell worksheet from a datalogger (unfortunatley I don't have the Link Serial) of someone with a k26/8 just so I can make sure my baseline is at least safe - I have no idea what the percentages should have been new, so I don't know if I'm too far out of baseline to even risk driving the car more than around the block. Let this be a lesson - don't buy important engine management systems used, it's a total PITA.

[edit] NZ - that actually was a lot more helpful once I got further into it. Thanks very much for the heads up - I was worried that a different system would be a pain to retro-figure, but I think that'll help a little. I'd still love to have someone's k26/8 runs as a baseline, but this should help get the ball rolling.

NZ951

If the chips were mapped for your setup, then you should be close without fuel adjustment. If its not mapped for your setup, then you will need adjustment obviously. Unless its moderate mods, the base map will not be far off at all. Given you dont have a WB setup, you cant fine tune anyway. I would NEVER fine tune off NB, ever.

Jake951

I could give you my MAP settings but I'm afraid it might actually mislead you unless your car is exactly like mine. In particular I have some boost rolloff in the upper rpm's. As a result I had to lean out the WOT cells above from 5000-6500 rpm because my chips were mapped for a flat 18 psi profile. If you used my MAP settings and you didn't have the same boost rolloff you could end up dangerously lean in the upper rpm's.

There were a couple other areas where I made adjustments. One was in the boost ramp-up region around 3000 rpm, where I was a bit lean so I added some fuel. For some reason my K26/8 seems to ramp up a bit more quickly than others I've seen and I'm completely stock (down to the factory cat). It really helps to do dyno tuning here.

The other region I adjusted was the range of the cells in the 200's and 300's rows. I found that when I changed from stock to 55# injectors, I couldn't get the car to switch into closed-loop mode using the O2 sensor in that range of cells. The car was running open loop (no A/F dithering) and a bit lean (around 16:1 or 17:1) under light throttle. This is because you need a certain minimum amount of fuel in order to get the DME control loops to start working and it wasn't happening with my 55# injectors for some reason. It was easy to fix, though, by bumping up the fuel in those cells. Once it went into closed-loop the A/F settled out at 14.7:1 where it should be and driveability under light throttle improved.

Also, I found the off-throttle hiccup could be reduced by switching from TPS acceleration mode to MAP acceleration mode. This is the opposite of what most people do, but it works better for me. Then I added a small amount (+3% to +5%) of acceleration enrichment. The car is very sensitive to the amount of enrichment. When it's too rich under acceleration, it bogs down badly, and it doesn't take much. It really helps to have an A/F gauge to see what's going on.

Hope this helps. If you have more questions, just ask.

NZ951

John,

Take a screen shot of your fuel map and post it. If many other do the same and mods are listed, then a decent picture may appear... that is if this has not been done already.