EJ

Well I'm going through the steps per Clark's and it's going pretty good. A couple of questions though. What tool/method is best for removing the rear bolt for the heat shield on the steering universal joint? Once I remove this shield will I be able to see the the two allen bolts that hold the turbo to the motor mount? Where are these two allen head bolts located anyway? Any other useful tips will be much appreciated.
TIA, Eric

tconn

I just used a wrench to remove the rear bolt for the heat shield.
The two allen head bolts are on the under side of the motor mount.
You can see the thread side of the bolts if you look at the turbo mount
itself.
I coated the threads with P.B.Blaster a couple of days before trying to remove
the bolts, I then added more several hours before removing them. The bolts came right out with out a problem.
If you remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering rack in place you'll have plenty of room to work.

jwl

If the master cylinder heat shield out of the way you can use use a 10mm swivel socket from the top or a stubby rachet wrench from the bottom. The turbo mount bolts are at the bottom of the motor mount. You'll need a long extention, 6mm allen socket, and a swivel. The longer bolt won't come out of the mount unless the steering rack is dropped.

Crazy Eddie

Hey Eric
Before my lap top fried ( no bookmarks no word files etc. ) There is a write up
from Tom M"Ginn that is really worth looking at. He also have a web site that has a good deal of info.
The two bolts you are looking for are easily seen from under the drivers side bet under the steering rack.
Some people like to loosen the rack to get a better shot at the bolts. Whatever you do DON'T try to turn those bolts with out a fully seated allen socket ( DON'T USE A BALL END WRENCH ) all that will do is strip your bolts with ease .... I will look up his website, for you and send it ...Do wake up the bolts and spray PB Blaster... Its you best friend :-)
regards
Ed
ps you will need a short wobble extension and a straight extension with the allen socket at the end of course

Crazy Eddie

The longer bolt won't come out of the mount unless the steering rack is dropped
Truer words were never spoken

Crazy Eddie

Tom's write up
http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951...ocharger_r.htm

jwl

Twist'em off and you WILL NOT find them at your local hardware store...

Alpine951

Cool!!! I was just about to ask if there were tips to removing the turbo. Thanks all.

Mikeaagesen

I'm taking mine off again. I guess I might be able to walk someone through it, if the directions are unclear. BTW, I didnt remove the steering rack when I pulled mine the first time. I just removed the Alternator to get at the mounting bolts. Has anyone ever thought of making a longer return line and deleting the mounting bolts all together? All the other turbo cars I see dont even have any mounting bolts for their turbo. It just hangs there.

z3bra

While it's possible, since we have a tubular exhaust pre- and post-turbo, having the turbo's weight hanging just on the tubular exhaust pieces is just begging to make them crack. Also, I'm sure there's some benefit of having the bearing section attached to a big piece of aluminum that acts as a heat sink. That may or may not have been a design goal but it doesn't hurt any either.

So yeah you could nix the mounting as it is but you'd have to beef up a bunch more stuff if you did. Also, most other cars have the turbo hanging on a cast exhaust manifold which is better suited to holding the mass of the turbo as well as acting as a manifold, tubes are a lot more fickle.

Danno

"What tool/method is best for removing the rear bolt for the heat shield on the steering universal joint?"

I use 1/4" drive 10mm socket with built-in universal wobble. Then about 16-24" of extensions from above and they come out easily!

"Once I remove this shield will I be able to see the the two allen bolts that hold the turbo to the motor mount? Where are these two allen head bolts located anyway? "

You get them from underneath. I use 1/4" drive allen-sockets here (avoid the Bondhus ball-driver type). Grind 1mm off the tip to get a really square and sharp tip to fully bite into the bolt-heads. Clean out the bolt-heads of any debris. I use a 1/4" universal swivel then 12" extension to reach up there. Aim extension as straight inline with axis of bolt as possible. On one of the bolts, I think you have to have the extension between the steering-rack and crossmember. HAMMER the allen-socket into the bolt-heads. On the bolt with steering U-joint in the way, I rotate the steering so that socket fits inside the gap between the two ends so that it goes in as straight as possible; 1/4" drive's narrower body helps the allen-kit go in straight. Add 1/4" to 3/8" adaptor and attach 3/8" ratchet. Use handle-extension (pipe) to get more leverage so you don't have to apply too much force (which can cause your hands to wobble and strip the allen-head bolt). Use one hand near the extension/adaptor/ratchet joint to keetp everything steady and together, other hand applies rotation on handle.

johne

I agree with everything danno said, except I have found that impact force instead of constant force helps break bolts free without stripping them. So I try to "pop" the handle with a solid flicking motion while holding the entire assemble steady. Also the more PB Blaster or penitrating oil, and the more/harder you hammer the allen socket into bolts, the better.

For the nuts holding the crossover pipe I torched each one with a butane torch for 20 minutes before attacking it. I then put a 6 point wrench on it (DO NOT USE A 12 POINT) and qucked and repeatedly hammered on the wrench with a hammer for 2-3 minutes, simulating the effect of an impact wrench.

You do NOT want to strip these nuts.

And as you've probably read, just take the downpipe out with the turbo, it make you life alot easier.


HTH,
John

Mikeaagesen

Before I try this, does anyone think that if I remove the crossover pipe as well as the cat pipe, that I won't have to remove my alternator or drop the rack to loosen my mounting bolts? My entire exhaust system needs to come off anyway, and I thought this would make it easier.

Crazy Eddie

You really don't have to remove the alt
You have to remove the down pipe and the turbo to cat pipe
If you feel the you cant get a straight shot at the bolts then you
can remove the alt but its really not necessary ..
I even removed my crossover ... ( i wanted to coat my pipes anyway)
regards
Ed

Crazy Eddie

ALSO
I wanted to add that you should be pushing, as hard up into those bolts with thw allen socket as you
are trying to turn the wrench
An trust me, you will have to really jump on the bolt with a breaker bar. Make sure that allen is seated all the way up into the bolt ( dont let off any pressure on the upward push into the bolt) that is how they strip .... Dont try a half assed attempt .. I believe that it is best to give it an all your strengith shot all at once ( but again ) make sure its seated all the way ..
Good luck
Regards
Ed
Ps did I mention to you to make sure the allen socket key is fully seated before you turn that wrench !