monabaker

Attention All Rennlist Post'ees!!

I will be having my clutch completely replaced this coming week. The price I was quoted by my speciality porsche mechanic seemed a bit high. My question to you is. In your opnion, based upon educated guesses and experience if you have ever had one done:

How Much For Labor: ____________
How Much For Parts: _____________
How Much Total: ________________

Also....What is a great deal: ____________
What is too much: ____________
How many miles would you expect a car to go before a clutch replacement in my model car? (1986 - 951)

I'll let you all know what I was quoted and what my miles are after I hear some responces!

Thanks!

NZ951

LaboUr: 18-20 hours
Parts: $500 - $1000 depending on the bling
Total: 1.5-2K

monabaker

Anyone else, please chime in.

chinaman

I was quoted $1800 for clutch replacement. I told them I had my own parts and in turn the labor alone on there part was ~$1200.

monabaker

I've been quoted $2700. $1100 for parts and 15hrs of labor @ 80 per hour, but the math doesent add up

HoBoJoe

Wow looking at these prices is making the shop i go to sound good... After getting my bearings done they said 850 in labor for the clutch job, and i have an 86 w/ 1 piece cross over pipe.. hmm to do it myself or not....

lart951

That's exactely how much I paid for the sachs sport version labor & parts.

mclarenno9

Here are the numbers from the PO's slip The prices include tax and recutting of the flywheel.

How Much For Labor: $1211
How Much For Parts: $750
How Much Total: $2,173

Also....What is a great deal: $1500?
What is too much: $2300

tammons

Vertex quoted me 900-1000 for parts and labor which sounds low to me ! I would not so it for that much. I have a feeling they miss quoted the parts though.

toddk911

Just had this done this week

My labor was 14 hours, but they also changed out the master cyl, cv boosts and had some troubles with bolts breaking and drilling them out, and making/welding a new bracket on one piece and the clutch fork.

Parts: My pressure plate was great and they were pretty sure PO must have put one on recently before I got the car, so I only need disk, TO/Pilot bearings, and misc. parts for clutch. I went with the Cup/Sport clutch disk. Super smooth, crisp response. Also, added cost of CV boots,master cyl clutch fork.

From the TON of reasarch on clutch parts/kits you are looking at stock Sachs (kind of a waste unless you plan to stay close to stock) 550-600 kit, SPEC Stage 1,2 about $650-700, Centerforce ( I got mixed results on this one) $700-750.

toddk911

My grand total was just under $2,200.

MPD47

I'll let you know in a day or two. My car is in the shop getting a new spec 3k clutch. I was going to change it, but A. i was sick of working on jackstands, B. Doctor's orders I cant work on the car.

baron951

What every you do make sure the shop you deal with knows what they are doing.
Remind them to install the washer for both refrence sensors (behind the intake) before they crank it up. I know this sounds a bit silly to most people. When I had my clutch installed I also had the oilpan gasket and rod B changed I suggest you do the same if you have a leak or 100k plus on the clock.
The shop that did my clutch did not install the refrence sensors with the washer to set the height and the sensors where damanged (you may want to purchase new ones if they are old) well what happen was after a couple months one day she would not start. I whent crazy trying to diagnos the problem pulled one of the sensors and noticed slight scaring well thoes things are sensitive let me tell you. Also if budget permiting have the engine mounts changed use the originals not after market its better to do all this stuff while you are in there should not change the price to much but you will be able to sleep at night better, preventative maintance lowers the murphyes law syndrone
Good Luck

baron951

Oh yea one more thing buy the best clutch you can afford you dont want to do this again any time soon. I have the stage II spec from Lindsey works well but chatters abit stage I is better if you are not going to modify. Stage II workes well in a 300 plus car. I know there are other options however the price will double if you want to go for lighter fly wheel or Al, light psi plate ect. One other thing have them change the rear main seal if you do nothing else. That is the most important preventative maintance this will cost you very little. for the stock flywheel you should have them resurface it

monabaker

Interesting Advise...I'll let you know how much mine ends up being by the end of this week.