3.0+ conversion questions
#17
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I agree with David, DO NOT SLEEVE a GOOD BLOCK!!!!! If you must sleeve, find a bad block and get someone familiar with the 944 sleeving process to do the job (Chris white is a good source).
#18
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Originally Posted by Jake 944CS
well i will be stroking it with new rods with the 3.0 crank, so i just thought step it up a tiny notch with boring it a bit...
#20
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Originally Posted by pieball
And when they stroke the 3.0, why do they only go to a 3.1?
#22
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As I understand it, if you start with a 3 ltr block and crank, bore and sleeve to 107 mm = 3.2 ltr or bore and sleeve to 111 mm= 3.4 ltr.
Then you have to source piston/rings, headgaskets and so on.
450+ rwhp not enough with the 3ltr ?
Then you have to source piston/rings, headgaskets and so on.
450+ rwhp not enough with the 3ltr ?
#23
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omg i feel so stupid. i was thinking one thing and typing another because i got confused when someone p-med me.they were telling me to stroke my 2.5L block and since i was posting on this thread in another window things got messed up.
but actually, i have another question, can i just bore out the 2.5L block and stroke it with the 3.0 crank? are the cylinder walls very different with a 3.0 block?
but actually, i have another question, can i just bore out the 2.5L block and stroke it with the 3.0 crank? are the cylinder walls very different with a 3.0 block?
#25
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well another question really, is boring out a 2.5 block to 106 or 107 mm any different than boring a 3.0 block to 106 or 107? i'm thinking in regards to strength of the cylinder wall and running high levels of boost. any opinions appreciated...
#26
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Originally Posted by Jake 944CS
well another question really, is boring out a 2.5 block to 106 or 107 mm any different than boring a 3.0 block to 106 or 107? i'm thinking in regards to strength of the cylinder wall and running high levels of boost. any opinions appreciated...
#28
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Originally Posted by Jake 944CS
so then who would be the best supplier regarding acquiring an mls head gasket for either a 106 or 107 mm bore application?
#29
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Just a suggestion here, and it's intended to save you all type of aggrevation and might save you a $ or 2.
Set your goals and your budget. Talk to someone that has been down this road before, do not start the project till you have the complete budget for it. Go to someone that has done the sleeving before, you will pay for their expertise but you will do it once and you will enjoy the car.
VERY few companies have sleeved the 2.5 or 3.0L blocks with success. It's not something you want to go cheap on as it'll cost you more later. Do not be surprised to spend $10-15K to get a good running engine (sleeves, rebuild, Turbo, engine control...).
Due to the Alusil wall thickness, it's not a good idea to bore them to a much larger size (0.5-1mm probably the max). To get larger bore you will have to sleeve. If you go "dry" sleeve the 3.0L is stronger as the cylinders a siamesed. If you go to MID sleeve (Cheris White had a thread on it not so long ago), the 2.5 or 3.0 will be "about" the same (strength wise) as the cylinders are removed for both.
Set your goals and your budget. Talk to someone that has been down this road before, do not start the project till you have the complete budget for it. Go to someone that has done the sleeving before, you will pay for their expertise but you will do it once and you will enjoy the car.
VERY few companies have sleeved the 2.5 or 3.0L blocks with success. It's not something you want to go cheap on as it'll cost you more later. Do not be surprised to spend $10-15K to get a good running engine (sleeves, rebuild, Turbo, engine control...).
Due to the Alusil wall thickness, it's not a good idea to bore them to a much larger size (0.5-1mm probably the max). To get larger bore you will have to sleeve. If you go "dry" sleeve the 3.0L is stronger as the cylinders a siamesed. If you go to MID sleeve (Cheris White had a thread on it not so long ago), the 2.5 or 3.0 will be "about" the same (strength wise) as the cylinders are removed for both.
#30
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Originally Posted by fast951
. Do not be surprised to spend $10-15K to get a good running engine (sleeves, rebuild, Turbo, engine control...).
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