Skunk Workz

On it.

hosrom_951

So you just enter the AFR you want and the loads and it automatically does everything throughout the rpm range?

tommye

How about 100% stealth MAF or MAP kits ?
With active feedback for boost control using stock Cycling Valve and modified KLR/DME.

pete95zhn

There You go,fully operational 100% stealth MAP kit with earlier requested cold air intake,it is called "The Porsche snorkel and airbox",very expensive option from Zuffenhausen... :

Tom M'Guinn

I did exactly this already -- if memory serves, the gauge needle goes all the way to the right at 1.7 volts and was pretty linear. I was working on a circuit to scale a 5v pressure sensor but got distracted with life.

My other idea was to route a calibrated O2 signal to the boost gauge -- so you could have the a/f read-out right in the dash.

NZ951

Thats interesting Tom. I think its a worth while project, but its a time consuming one!

tommye

...which of course would be a kit including a modern turbocharger with variable pitch turbine(s). Check the torque curve of the new 200hp 2-litre Golf GTI - absolutely flat from 1800 rpm and up........
If somebody could come up with a kit like that - wow !
Anybody know more about this subject ?????

Crazy Eddie

Hey Pete
What exactly would be involved here ?
Is there a recipe for this ?
I have a Vitesse Stage II set up with MAF and etc ...
I saw a very impressive job done by Davinder(B951S)
But,I never really got the full dirt as to how it is done He had it on another PC
that was no more.
I have a visual smog I have to pass here and I kinda like the stock look anyway
TIA
Regards
Ed

Crazy Eddie

Hey Tom, when you figure this out let me know I would love to do this !!
Regards
Ed

snappy

What I think would be an increadable package but would require a few different houses working on it is as follows.

1. Upgrade the electrical system to use 36 or 48 volts. 48v preferred.

2. Install a 32Volt or 48Volt electric (instant) blower. I am sure you can get 8psi out of 36Volts. probly clsoe to 10psi.

3. Install "SAID" blower in a pre stage to the larger PSI turbo.

Can you imagine the feeling of boost kicking in in a fraction of a second at say 900 rpm.

Needless to say this setup would work better the smaller the engine is. Well better meaning "more doable". Some tweaking and you have a fluid powerband from start to finish. Catch would be to make sure the smaller blower/turbo does not impede the airflow to the larger one.

I have seen a 24V 6-10psi electric blowers for 600cc go-carts/bikes before. But for the 2.5-3.x we have that wont even produce 2psi.

I heard BMW will be upping to 36v soon, but that is more due to the amount of electronics they have in the dam thing.

** ps ignore my stupidity if this has been mentioned elsewhere.

snappy

I am working on exactly your point 4. I am almost finished with designing a new cluster look and exploring ways to illuminate it. I am also looking at adding a small LCD that would integrate quite well with any raw data. We can feed to it. Not to crazy electronics needed, just more time to figure out what language it needs to translate into the display. If only I had more free time. It's hard to find companies here that will do one-offs or even give me a quote to print out / stamp on some custom materials I want it on.

On point 5. I use to flow match my own headers back in my old country when I use to race a bmw in the modified saloon series. I would say most of us on this board can do it without the risk or ruining the head. as in going to deep into the valve guides. Best is to find an old busted head and practice on it. before you attack your own head. What stones at what grind I can easily tell you and what grit to use when. its very labor intensive, due to you needing to be patient and taking your time. 10 hours or so. But very simple. hmm thinking about it now it would only take 5 hours seeing as you only need to one side, I believe the intake side.

IanS

Sounds good. Make sure to post some pictures when you've made some good progress.

On #5, only the intake manifold has an imbalance from what I've heard, and I don't have a flow bench, so I don't know how to check my progress. I'm comfortable using the die grinder and bits, but I would need fairly detailed instructions on how much material to remove and where to do it myself.

snappy

regarding the flow match, not scientific, but i used the same method to set the 250cc suzuki carburetors I had on the car. I pretty much took a vacuum pump through a regulator and made flange bolt-ons for both sides out of scrap metal, then attached a chemist pouring measuring cup "kinda long with accurate markings on it" and placed a "ping-pong" ball inside of it. really perfect fit. then hooked it all up and started to drill out a hold at the bottom of the tube. as soon as I got to the point where the measuring was in the middle I stopped drilling. when I moved from port to port I stopped every-now-and-then and hooked it up to see. I just made sure they ping pong ball lines up with the marking of the previous one. Now I know it's crude but as I mentioned I did this for my carburetors and when I eventually won some money I sent it in to a race shop and they told me that my carbs where set perfectly and I dont need to change it. This was about 11 years ago and things have changed since. But at least that will give you a better chance than eyeballing it

Skunk Workz

The imbalance in flow in the stock manifold is not something you can fix with porting...the volumes/diameters of the runners are the same,but the varying number of bends per runner in it make it flow unevenly no matter.

jimbo1111

This my be he case on a flow bench but keep in mind that under restriction flow trends to equalize.