Racing swaybar differences
#2
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Tarett Engineeing did the origional design and built the swaybars for Kokeln for over five years. When we were unable to work out an exclusive deal that Kokeln wanted, they copied both our 911 and 944 designs and made them purple.
Ira
Tarett Engineering
Ira
Tarett Engineering
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#3
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Los Angeles
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Ira,
Since you on here, I want to ask you a question. First off, welcome to rennlist, glad to have you here. Those fitting at the endlinks, do they ever have issues with coming loose? does a competent install take care of that. I spoke to you at the show in Ventura, when those 356 where destroyed. I may be interested in your sways to accompany my upcoming Escort cup setup, but they may be a bit out of my price range.
~Eyal
Since you on here, I want to ask you a question. First off, welcome to rennlist, glad to have you here. Those fitting at the endlinks, do they ever have issues with coming loose? does a competent install take care of that. I spoke to you at the show in Ventura, when those 356 where destroyed. I may be interested in your sways to accompany my upcoming Escort cup setup, but they may be a bit out of my price range.
~Eyal
#6
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Eyal,
Are you referring to the rod ends wearing? I use a "precision" quality rod end with a teflon liner. They are zero maintenance and I've never had a customer replace a worn out one. On my very first run, the front 944 bar was slightly too long and caused some binding on the rod ends when the car was lifted up. This could have loosened the bolt that connects it to the a-arm adaptor if it isn’t well tightened down. I only know of this happening once, and it was a long time ago on one of the test cars. Is that the fitting you’re referring too? If you know of any issues, I’d be interested in hearing about them. I suppose that there are a lot of ways to install them incorrectly that could cause problems, but I haven’t heard of it happening. The only install problems I’ve heard about, is the 911 front connecting brackets being welded on in the wrong place or rotated 90 deg. That happens about 1% of the time, but usually gets corrected quickly.
S,
What front bar are you running? You’ll probably need to run the rear bar very soft to match.
Ira
Are you referring to the rod ends wearing? I use a "precision" quality rod end with a teflon liner. They are zero maintenance and I've never had a customer replace a worn out one. On my very first run, the front 944 bar was slightly too long and caused some binding on the rod ends when the car was lifted up. This could have loosened the bolt that connects it to the a-arm adaptor if it isn’t well tightened down. I only know of this happening once, and it was a long time ago on one of the test cars. Is that the fitting you’re referring too? If you know of any issues, I’d be interested in hearing about them. I suppose that there are a lot of ways to install them incorrectly that could cause problems, but I haven’t heard of it happening. The only install problems I’ve heard about, is the 911 front connecting brackets being welded on in the wrong place or rotated 90 deg. That happens about 1% of the time, but usually gets corrected quickly.
S,
What front bar are you running? You’ll probably need to run the rear bar very soft to match.
Ira
#7
Drifting
Hi Ira,
Welcome to the List. I just installed your front and rear bars and am REALLY looking forward to testing them on the track soon.
The only problem I had w/ the install was trying to install the front bar upside down (droplinks coming from under the a-arm like the factory bar). From looking at the assembly instructions, it appears the bar goes on the car w/ the lever arms under the a-arms. Because of this, the block that bolts onto the arm didn't fit correctly. Jason at Paragon dope-slapped me and I got it straightened out.
By the way, my PCA region has tech sessions/inspections before each DE. They put each car on a lift to check for issues. Your bars received quite a few positive comments. At one point, there were 7 people under the car oogling the shiny pieces...
Ira, mind if I ask for tuning advice as I get into the season? It's my first set of adjustable bars. I'm starting with them full-soft as I tune my new shocks.
Welcome to the List. I just installed your front and rear bars and am REALLY looking forward to testing them on the track soon.
The only problem I had w/ the install was trying to install the front bar upside down (droplinks coming from under the a-arm like the factory bar). From looking at the assembly instructions, it appears the bar goes on the car w/ the lever arms under the a-arms. Because of this, the block that bolts onto the arm didn't fit correctly. Jason at Paragon dope-slapped me and I got it straightened out.
By the way, my PCA region has tech sessions/inspections before each DE. They put each car on a lift to check for issues. Your bars received quite a few positive comments. At one point, there were 7 people under the car oogling the shiny pieces...
Ira, mind if I ask for tuning advice as I get into the season? It's my first set of adjustable bars. I'm starting with them full-soft as I tune my new shocks.
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#8
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Hi Jerome,
Thanks for the comments. There’s definitely some room for improvement on my assembly instructions for those bars. It’s been on my to do list for too long.
There’re a lot of factors that determine your settings but most important is the front to rear relationship, especially on your first time out. Weather you set them relative soft or stiff, you want to start off with them at least a little stiffer in the front than in the rear. I usually recommend setting them about ½ stiff in front and about ¼ of the way towards full soft (near the end of the arm) in back. It’s more of a safety issue than anything else. You’re better off with too much understeer than oversteer when you go into that first turn with a new set up. Also, the rear bar is a little stiffer than the front one is, which you would use if you have more rear rubber and a rear wing.
Ira
Thanks for the comments. There’s definitely some room for improvement on my assembly instructions for those bars. It’s been on my to do list for too long.
There’re a lot of factors that determine your settings but most important is the front to rear relationship, especially on your first time out. Weather you set them relative soft or stiff, you want to start off with them at least a little stiffer in the front than in the rear. I usually recommend setting them about ½ stiff in front and about ¼ of the way towards full soft (near the end of the arm) in back. It’s more of a safety issue than anything else. You’re better off with too much understeer than oversteer when you go into that first turn with a new set up. Also, the rear bar is a little stiffer than the front one is, which you would use if you have more rear rubber and a rear wing.
Ira
#9
Drifting
Thanks Ira, I'll make some adjustments before I go out. I agree that understeer is the preferred characteristic when starting out.
The assembly instructions weren't difficult to follow; they just didn't show the orientation of the bar on the car.
BTW, what is a Tarett Engineeg?? A new product you're coming out with?? ;-)
The assembly instructions weren't difficult to follow; they just didn't show the orientation of the bar on the car.
BTW, what is a Tarett Engineeg?? A new product you're coming out with?? ;-)
#10
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Tarett Engineeg
S,
What front bar are you running? You’ll probably need to run the rear bar very soft to match.
Ira
What front bar are you running? You’ll probably need to run the rear bar very soft to match.
Ira
Here is what I'm planning to put on.
I'm not final on spring rates but I'm starting out with 500lb (90NM) fronts and 550 lb (100NM) rears.
Will the Rear Tarett bar have enough range (low end)?
xmas came early
#11
Race Car
holy crap, that's a buttload of expensive suspension stuff. i'd love to have all that!!
#12
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sl951,
if you're going to go that far, might as well get the tarret front bar as well . .. have the best of everything, not just 90% of it.
those photos remind me of this Jerome guy that lives near me, damn him and all his fancy bling bling suspension!
if you're going to go that far, might as well get the tarret front bar as well . .. have the best of everything, not just 90% of it.
those photos remind me of this Jerome guy that lives near me, damn him and all his fancy bling bling suspension!
#13
Drifting
SL951,
Are those the racing double or triple adjustable struts (not the club sport ones)? My club sports don't have the brake deflector and tab for the ABS ground (and the design and colors are different).
Nice hardware. As Mike suggested, get the best while you're at it. Heck, it's only money....
If you're going for a full track car (which I'm assuming you are considering the $$$ you're spending in suspension), your spring rates are somewhat low. Most people are running a few 00 lbs higher (unless you have a lightened car or run on really bumpy tracks).
It appears you rear lower hats are different from mine. I had to space the shock top (mounted on the bottom) away from the banana arm to keep the hat from rubbing on the arm. Your hat design is different so you may not have this issue.
Are those the racing double or triple adjustable struts (not the club sport ones)? My club sports don't have the brake deflector and tab for the ABS ground (and the design and colors are different).
Nice hardware. As Mike suggested, get the best while you're at it. Heck, it's only money....
If you're going for a full track car (which I'm assuming you are considering the $$$ you're spending in suspension), your spring rates are somewhat low. Most people are running a few 00 lbs higher (unless you have a lightened car or run on really bumpy tracks).
It appears you rear lower hats are different from mine. I had to space the shock top (mounted on the bottom) away from the banana arm to keep the hat from rubbing on the arm. Your hat design is different so you may not have this issue.
#14
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sl951, looks good, but I'm somewhat surprised that you'd spend all that and then use brake adaptors on earlier spindles instead of upgrading to '89 spindles. You're taking the weakest point in the stock suspension and leaving it in!
Sam
Sam
#15
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Wow, those are some nice looking parts!! I’d like to see pictures of the finished product.
The 30mm front bar is bigger than mine but they should be close in overall stiffness. My arms are very rigid and there are no rubber bushings to flex. The rear Tarett bar should match it ok. I think that you’ll end up running with it set relatively soft.
Ira
The 30mm front bar is bigger than mine but they should be close in overall stiffness. My arms are very rigid and there are no rubber bushings to flex. The rear Tarett bar should match it ok. I think that you’ll end up running with it set relatively soft.
Ira