NZ951

Ok, here it is. I have not taken test data yet, but obviously I will like my other projects. The total cost was $0.00.

I went to a fibreglass manufacturer and was able to grease some product. I got the rubber from work, but its only a couple of dollars retail. Its a hell of a tight fit with that massive filter, but I didnt want one of those tiny ones that flow no more than 300HP.

I will try and develop this piece further to make a lid, probably out of perspects.

TRACKIN951

Badass looking man. Do you have any extra airflow to the filter or does the stock pipe threw the fender feed the air?

NZ951

Yes the fender feed is still there. I am in the process of making a bottom plate with a round hole to mount flexible pipe to pick up some positive air pressure. AC is gone so it makes it possible.

Tom M'Guinn

Looks great. Where'd you get the rubber stripping pieces? You must have more free than me. Lots more. Are you out of coolant?

NZ951

I got the rubber strips from work. We vulcanise them. You will be able to get something similar from a rubber goods supplier, its a generic "automotive" seal. I have to take the hose to the metal coolent line off to feed through the fibreglass panel. So its sealed up nicely.

ehall

Ok, so what's it going to cost me for you to build and send me one. no bull ****. E

NZ951

By the way, you dont need to add any holes to mount it. It uses the expansion tanks stud and the lower earth connection bolt position in case anyone is wondering. Even though there are only two points bolted on, with the filter and water hose through it, its very very firm. No movement at all.

NZ951

I dont really do things for money. For this piece, its probably better if you make something your self, as a lot of areas need to be filed to fit perfectly. I could not be sure that this piece would fit any other car. Expecially the intake pipe position. Also, I have removed the turbo water cooling, I dont know what impact that would have on the design. Finally, my fibregalss skills suck! This came out ok as I worked on it for a few hours. Seriously its easy to do! Just get some fibreglass and cut to fit and buy some rubber seals and you are done... BUT I would wait till I do some intake temp tests to be sure its worth it!

gilwong

NZ,

Am I correct to assume your cone filter has an open top (i.e. where it meets the fender)? What model cone filter is that?

J Chen

Wow more professional than Lindsey's

hosrom_951

Care to show any before and after temperature readings?

special tool

NZ - now that's a REAL filter

Bri Bro

NZ951

That looks nice, could you trace out a template and post it? I think it would be easy to cut it out of a piece of aluminum if you had a template.

Edman951

Nice work NZ
Looks hot... or should i say cool.

I see you removed the head light stopper.
Any ill affects after removing it?
Also i look into removing it to a while back but i seemed pretty hard.
What did you do to remove it?

Thanks

NZ951

Actually the top of the filter (thanks Special Tool) has a metal cap. I will eventually plate a fibreglass plate to cover that fender wall opening, and duct ait from the bottom where the AC was. This means there will be more positive air pressure in that cavity. Effectively increasing the filters flow capacity. I think I could get .5-1.0 psi by the end.