What is the most cost effective way to reach 400 rwhp?
#46
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I kind of chuckle at this stuff...
I have a friend who had a very nice 951. 2.5L car putting out 400 rwhp. Had the wide body kit with big fat 315's and all. Very nice car. However he got hooked on 944-spec race and sold the car. Yep had more fun at the track with a 132 RWHP 944 NA that his 400 RWHP 944 Turbo. Considered making the 951 into a race car, but the expense of rebuilding soundly to that use and maintence costs scared him off. He sold the car to a friend because he just was not having any fun. Sure he could out drag a Z06 or 996 TT from role, but that took no skill at all and got boring.
The new owner reciently had the car out for DE day. Well he had to turn boost down to like 1/2 just to keep the car unde him. He was smart about it however and will probably run low boost at the track for a while as the car is much faster than the driver. Maybe in few years he will start to turn the boost up more at the track.
I don't see where 400 hp is any good for the street. I can see how it good at the track, but it takes time to learn how to effectivly harness it all.
I have a friend who had a very nice 951. 2.5L car putting out 400 rwhp. Had the wide body kit with big fat 315's and all. Very nice car. However he got hooked on 944-spec race and sold the car. Yep had more fun at the track with a 132 RWHP 944 NA that his 400 RWHP 944 Turbo. Considered making the 951 into a race car, but the expense of rebuilding soundly to that use and maintence costs scared him off. He sold the car to a friend because he just was not having any fun. Sure he could out drag a Z06 or 996 TT from role, but that took no skill at all and got boring.
The new owner reciently had the car out for DE day. Well he had to turn boost down to like 1/2 just to keep the car unde him. He was smart about it however and will probably run low boost at the track for a while as the car is much faster than the driver. Maybe in few years he will start to turn the boost up more at the track.
I don't see where 400 hp is any good for the street. I can see how it good at the track, but it takes time to learn how to effectivly harness it all.
#47
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Buy 1995 Camaro Z-28, add one 383 Stroker from LG Motorsports. Worked fine for me for 2 years, car was ***** to the wall fast (though more than 400HP) even at the drag strip it was uncommon for someone to have a faster car that they drove to/from.
If you are talking about a 951, follow John and Chris's advice. I will add that keeping to a time line is the second most important thing they mentioned. I have not and my project has been going on 16 months now. If I had done the most important thing (lay out a plan, use someone you trust, buy mostly from them), I would have been done long ago. Thankfully, for some of us, the pleasure is in the journey.
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If you are talking about a 951, follow John and Chris's advice. I will add that keeping to a time line is the second most important thing they mentioned. I have not and my project has been going on 16 months now. If I had done the most important thing (lay out a plan, use someone you trust, buy mostly from them), I would have been done long ago. Thankfully, for some of us, the pleasure is in the journey.
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#48
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For day to day driving, with an expectation of 100k durability, I would not be inclined to run at 20 psi, as a base line. I would run closer to 15 psi with the option, if I want it.
Tony I looked for SFR's kit. Couldn't find it. Would you have a link
We are in the process of updating the website so there will be some information about it this week along with dyno charts:^) We also have a few new products that will interest some people.
Tim
Tony I looked for SFR's kit. Couldn't find it. Would you have a link
We are in the process of updating the website so there will be some information about it this week along with dyno charts:^) We also have a few new products that will interest some people.
Tim
#49
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Thanks for all of the response guys. My reason for posting this was to check my own plan against the advice of others. I learned back in the Corps that it is always wise to create a strong plan, and then, without disclosing the specifics, throw out a question concerning the general parameters of the plan/mission. No matter how good a plan is, there is always something that gets missed, and that's usually, (read almost always), the one thing that gets someone killed.
That said, most of what was posted was good stuff, and luckily already considered. The builders have been selected, and the final plan will be ready by the 20th. The plan is to begin the build out in May.
I'm going to be putting together a 3.0, 8 valve engine. It really is now a matter of what falls into place, at the right price and time. Let the scrounging begin! I'll let you guys know specifically what I'm looking for soon. I'm discussing it with the bottom end builder, and we'll go from there. See you guys soon in the parts wanted area.
As a final thought. Anders, I can't agree more about suspension, brakes, and DE/track training. I was in the process of finishing off my suspension upgrades with a new set of Leda's, and then I was going to address the engine project at the beginning of 06. However, I have crank shaft end play that is quite a bit too far out of spec, and I'm really just racing the clock until I have a serious bottom end failure. I can't agree with your post more. If you can't stop it, and you can't control it, then you better hope it's going awfully slowly, so you can jump the hell out of it. Thanks again to all. E
That said, most of what was posted was good stuff, and luckily already considered. The builders have been selected, and the final plan will be ready by the 20th. The plan is to begin the build out in May.
I'm going to be putting together a 3.0, 8 valve engine. It really is now a matter of what falls into place, at the right price and time. Let the scrounging begin! I'll let you guys know specifically what I'm looking for soon. I'm discussing it with the bottom end builder, and we'll go from there. See you guys soon in the parts wanted area.
As a final thought. Anders, I can't agree more about suspension, brakes, and DE/track training. I was in the process of finishing off my suspension upgrades with a new set of Leda's, and then I was going to address the engine project at the beginning of 06. However, I have crank shaft end play that is quite a bit too far out of spec, and I'm really just racing the clock until I have a serious bottom end failure. I can't agree with your post more. If you can't stop it, and you can't control it, then you better hope it's going awfully slowly, so you can jump the hell out of it. Thanks again to all. E
#50
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
For day to day driving, with an expectation of 100k durability, I would not be inclined to run at 20 psi, as a base line. I would run closer to 15 psi with the option, if I want it.
Tony I looked for SFR's kit. Couldn't find it. Would you have a link
We are in the process of updating the website so there will be some information about it this week along with dyno charts:^) We also have a few new products that will interest some people.
Tim
Tony I looked for SFR's kit. Couldn't find it. Would you have a link
We are in the process of updating the website so there will be some information about it this week along with dyno charts:^) We also have a few new products that will interest some people.
Tim
Keen to spill some beans about the new products???
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Cost effective fuel rail perhaps???
#51
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You know stuff like a new intake manifold with velocity stacks for $999. Billet fuel rail with SX regulator, super duper clutch kit to withstand 600hp at the wheels and still keep the spring center,new billet MBC(my own design and it works better then any other MBC I have tested it against) and a few other things.Nothing to major though.Oh yeah, we do have our 2.8L SFR project car with all the best parts we make and we will be dynoing it in March.Looking for 500 at the wheels at 1-1.2 bar of boost on 91 octane pump gas!