What is the most cost effective way to reach 400 rwhp?
#18
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To be sure I'm correct, the way to get to 3.1 is to slightly overbore a 3.0 block, use an 8 valve 951 head, and adjust the corresponding systems to fit. ie ports, intake breathing, intercooling, turbo, fuel flow, and over all tuning. As I understand it, even with the new MID sleeves, you must use a 3.0 block to go past 2.8 liters, right?
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Originally Posted by J Chen
I agree Sweanders, suspension & brake pads upgrade
was the very first thing I did before I started to upgrade
the rest.
was the very first thing I did before I started to upgrade
the rest.
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"2.5 block bored to a 2.8 and a 3.ltr crank"
For 3.1, I presume. BTW what is the formula for calculating bore and stroke in order to convert to LTRS. TIA
For 3.1, I presume. BTW what is the formula for calculating bore and stroke in order to convert to LTRS. TIA
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"most people are happy with 320-350" - good point John, hell I'm happy with 318/324 @15psi.
One thing to consider with less than the 400 hp goal is to lighten it up so that 350 will feel like 400. Just asking here, have you taken a ride in a car with 320-350rwhp? They're pretty quick.
One thing to consider with less than the 400 hp goal is to lighten it up so that 350 will feel like 400. Just asking here, have you taken a ride in a car with 320-350rwhp? They're pretty quick.
#23
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Bore and Stroke the block, larger turbo, light weight pistons, balanced crank, connecting rods, and pistons along with clutch case. Larger valves!, new hard pipes, exhaust, fuel system upgraded. THE LIST CAN NEVER STOP!
It would be hard to do because like special tool said you need huge freakin tires (which could be hard to fit) stronger clutch, suspension (my opinion would be you need upgraded brakes as well) it would cost a bunch but my list above would be one way to get there...
-IAN
It would be hard to do because like special tool said you need huge freakin tires (which could be hard to fit) stronger clutch, suspension (my opinion would be you need upgraded brakes as well) it would cost a bunch but my list above would be one way to get there...
-IAN
#26
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Contrary to what you hear... you can get 400RWHP on pump gas. Been there... done that...
The key to making big power is a top end 'system' that is designed to flow well. From the turbo, to the intake manifold/throttle body, head, cam, header, turbine, exhaust.
The MAF/MAP/engine management/injectors/fuel pump... only gets you the correct a/f ratios and ignition timing. Although important... it's not the key to making power. However... it is the key to keeping your engine alive :-)
2.5L 8V engines are quite capable of making that power level at reasonable boost levels (17psi) and it can be done on pump gas.
But... as the old saying goes..., "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?".
SFR has the entire package to get you there for around $12k
And.... it does produce the goods... for sure.
TonyG
The key to making big power is a top end 'system' that is designed to flow well. From the turbo, to the intake manifold/throttle body, head, cam, header, turbine, exhaust.
The MAF/MAP/engine management/injectors/fuel pump... only gets you the correct a/f ratios and ignition timing. Although important... it's not the key to making power. However... it is the key to keeping your engine alive :-)
2.5L 8V engines are quite capable of making that power level at reasonable boost levels (17psi) and it can be done on pump gas.
But... as the old saying goes..., "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?".
SFR has the entire package to get you there for around $12k
And.... it does produce the goods... for sure.
TonyG
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"2.5L 8V engines are quite capable of making that power level at reasonable boost levels (17psi) and it can be done on pump gas. "
The question I have is for how long? Aren't we asking a hell of a lot out of a 2.5, over a long duration, as opposed to trying to get the same power with more displacement?
I know that you've done it. What are your thoughts on long term durability, when comparing the two?
The question I have is for how long? Aren't we asking a hell of a lot out of a 2.5, over a long duration, as opposed to trying to get the same power with more displacement?
I know that you've done it. What are your thoughts on long term durability, when comparing the two?
#29
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BTW..
Going on a light weight diet ain't cheap.
Price out getting out carbon fiber fenders/doors fitted and installed with all the crap installed. And... make sure they get the gaps correct so it doesn't look like a sloppy race car (which is OK for the track... but looks horrible on the street).
For the cost of a top quality wide body conversion with paint you could by the SFR 420 package.
Lightweight cars are not that light until you go lexan/delete bumpers/bumper reinforcements (which is a joke for a street car)/and break out the hole saws, race seats, a/c & heating, sound deadening, superlight weight wheels,and start ripping out a whole lot of what makes a street car... a street car, etc...
It's much nicer to have a fast car that has all the cushy comforts :-)
TonyG
TonyG
Going on a light weight diet ain't cheap.
Price out getting out carbon fiber fenders/doors fitted and installed with all the crap installed. And... make sure they get the gaps correct so it doesn't look like a sloppy race car (which is OK for the track... but looks horrible on the street).
For the cost of a top quality wide body conversion with paint you could by the SFR 420 package.
Lightweight cars are not that light until you go lexan/delete bumpers/bumper reinforcements (which is a joke for a street car)/and break out the hole saws, race seats, a/c & heating, sound deadening, superlight weight wheels,and start ripping out a whole lot of what makes a street car... a street car, etc...
It's much nicer to have a fast car that has all the cushy comforts :-)
TonyG
TonyG
#30
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Yup, I say SFR would be the way to go for a 400+ package, he (with customers) has been doing it and testing it for years... better to go with the tried and tested I say! Add some JME parts and you are set!
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