oil pan update
#4
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I just ordered mine from powerhaus. The one Claus mentioned. It cost a total of 354 with shipping. That was the extra baffle and the modified pickup. I will be sending my stock oil pan back to them as a core.
#5
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Is the non turbo oil pan the same as the turbo oil pan minus the oil return line, that huge banjo line...is the rest the same between the turbo and non turbo pans?
#7
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Can anyone comment on what the PowerHaus modifications consists of? I installed Lindseys baffle kit, which is basically an extra baffle plate 2” from the drain plug, and a sleeve that goes around the oil pickup. I have zero hours on the engine, so no data on how well it prevents oil starvation yet.
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#8
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Wormhole, the PowerHaus mod is an aluminum plate with a rectangular hole at the center bottom. An aluminum hinge is welded on the oil pickup side of the plate. The plate is welded inside the oil pan about where you wrote. The hinge closes when the oil tries to slosh toward the left side and opens when any oil outboard of the plate tries to slosh toward the right side. Powerhaus also supply the 1/2" high stainless ring welded around the oil pickup.
I purchased that '86 951 with 72,000 miles. It was my daily driver and I tracked the car monthly for five years without a problem. At 125,000 miles I replaced the rod bearings and they showed no signs of wear. I stopped driving it at 185,000 miles.
I modified the pan and pickup when building the track car. I added a second hinged plate on the right side and changed the oil drain routing accordingly. I CNC'd a stainless steel crank scraper that uses existing girdle fasteners and also added a screen windage tray to reduce or eliminate oil mist. Haven't had a problem driving monthly for two years. I also have an accusump but only use it for prelube at startup since I have replaced the oil filter adapter assembly and the remote oil filter does not have a check valve.
I just checked compression today and it is down to 125. I'll run it one more year and then rebuild. Anyway, I have not replaced rod bearings and don't plan to until rebuild.
BTW, stick a long screwdriver into the oil drain opening when you change oil to open the hinge enough to drain it. Otherwise it will take a looooong time.
While composing this reply, it all seemed relevant. I hope that I didn't get too far off topic.
I purchased that '86 951 with 72,000 miles. It was my daily driver and I tracked the car monthly for five years without a problem. At 125,000 miles I replaced the rod bearings and they showed no signs of wear. I stopped driving it at 185,000 miles.
I modified the pan and pickup when building the track car. I added a second hinged plate on the right side and changed the oil drain routing accordingly. I CNC'd a stainless steel crank scraper that uses existing girdle fasteners and also added a screen windage tray to reduce or eliminate oil mist. Haven't had a problem driving monthly for two years. I also have an accusump but only use it for prelube at startup since I have replaced the oil filter adapter assembly and the remote oil filter does not have a check valve.
I just checked compression today and it is down to 125. I'll run it one more year and then rebuild. Anyway, I have not replaced rod bearings and don't plan to until rebuild.
BTW, stick a long screwdriver into the oil drain opening when you change oil to open the hinge enough to drain it. Otherwise it will take a looooong time.
While composing this reply, it all seemed relevant. I hope that I didn't get too far off topic.
#9
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Originally Posted by turbo8
i cant find it on Paragon and i know ive seen it there can some one get me a link, thanks
#10
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Claus, thanks for the explanation. It sounds like the Lindsey kit is identical to the PowerHaus mod. I was contemplating which route to go with my rebuild. I’m glad now I went with the $20 Lindsey kit I picked up on ebay. I decided not to weld the aluminum ring around the pickup, I just didn’t see it making much of a difference. I’ll probably stay with this setup unless I spin a bearing.
The extra work you did on the track car sounds pretty interesting. Got any pics of the crank scraper?
The extra work you did on the track car sounds pretty interesting. Got any pics of the crank scraper?
#11
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This one of the crank scraper prototypes while i was adjusting the fit. There is less than .030 clearance to the crankshaft and it helps keep the oil from misting.
I suggest that you add the ring around the oil pickup. If oil sloshes enough to expose the screen . . . you'll be joining other unhappy posters on the forum. Remember that the weld has to be 100% tight.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/02050003.jpg)
I suggest that you add the ring around the oil pickup. If oil sloshes enough to expose the screen . . . you'll be joining other unhappy posters on the forum. Remember that the weld has to be 100% tight.
#12
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Claus, nice work on the scraper, during my rebuild last summer I searched for one with no luck.
Kevin at www.crank-scrapers.com had interest in making a scraper for our cars but needed a block in Florida for mock up.
You might contact him, maybe work something out with your design ??
Kevin at www.crank-scrapers.com had interest in making a scraper for our cars but needed a block in Florida for mock up.
You might contact him, maybe work something out with your design ??
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