Exhaust building tips requested
02-06-2005, 01:36 PM
#46
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Bengt,congrats...but where's dyno numbers? How does it sound?And the weight compared to the original?
There was earlier some dicussion about those Aeroturbine mufflers.I asked about them from my friend ( that ph.D. ),and he told me - very cautious man in his statements,btw- ,that in principle they can work and in controlled environment,ie. in laboratory,there might be some measurable power gain...
He also said that the flow could be enhanced even more if one added some energy there.In other words gasoline and spark...
...afterburner...
There was earlier some dicussion about those Aeroturbine mufflers.I asked about them from my friend ( that ph.D. ),and he told me - very cautious man in his statements,btw- ,that in principle they can work and in controlled environment,ie. in laboratory,there might be some measurable power gain...
He also said that the flow could be enhanced even more if one added some energy there.In other words gasoline and spark...
...afterburner...
02-06-2005, 02:20 PM
#48
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Bengt, that looks great and a separate 3” pipe for the wastegate all the way to the muffler tip, wow.
Pete, thanks for the feedback on the Aeroturbine mufflers, which then appear to have some performance merit after all.
Interesting thought, so branching into the fuel line, adding an injector and sparkplug to the center section of the muffler … nah better stop here.
Pete, thanks for the feedback on the Aeroturbine mufflers, which then appear to have some performance merit after all.
Interesting thought, so branching into the fuel line, adding an injector and sparkplug to the center section of the muffler … nah better stop here.
02-06-2005, 04:28 PM
#50
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No dyno numbers yet.
The 3.0L is brand new, and I'll probably drive with caution next season and fine tune before I take it to the dyno.
It's too ricey with afterburner (or I'm too coward).
Separated WG pipe is an idea from Tomas L.
The Cat is a second hand race cat from Corleone. He only use parts for one season before next upgrade ;-)
My target is to have the same HP as Corleone but 1000rpm below. Then I refer to his current setup. God only knows what he's up to for the next season.
Bengt
The 3.0L is brand new, and I'll probably drive with caution next season and fine tune before I take it to the dyno.
It's too ricey with afterburner (or I'm too coward).
Separated WG pipe is an idea from Tomas L.
The Cat is a second hand race cat from Corleone. He only use parts for one season before next upgrade ;-)
My target is to have the same HP as Corleone but 1000rpm below. Then I refer to his current setup. God only knows what he's up to for the next season.
Bengt
02-06-2005, 06:42 PM
#52
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Here is what I did a year or so ago. It went through the cane and now its rusty as hell. I'll probly remake that section. I cut the stock Downpipe just before it crimped down and went from there. I think it flows pretty well. Its all 3" and it goes out to 4" just before the muffler. The Muffler is a Borla XR-1 4" In/Out. Its straight through so pretty much zero restriction.
02-07-2005, 03:45 AM
#53
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Saving work wasn't the primary goal.
While I am not too fond of overdetailing, blue anodised alu parts, neon etc, I like a certain quality level. Boostguys' system may work equally well, but I just don't like rust on my car.
Bengt
While I am not too fond of overdetailing, blue anodised alu parts, neon etc, I like a certain quality level. Boostguys' system may work equally well, but I just don't like rust on my car.
Bengt
02-07-2005, 04:23 AM
#54
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Did I mention this exhaust went through a class 4 Hurricane while sitting in this exact position. It was completely under water for 24 hours. Its not like it was rusty when I made it.
02-07-2005, 11:05 AM
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SIS 2343 can be submerged in acid for years without problems!
Yes I know that's not required.
We all target different levels of car keeping. I'm not the tidiest guy around.
Bengt
Yes I know that's not required.
We all target different levels of car keeping. I'm not the tidiest guy around.
Bengt
02-20-2005, 03:59 PM
#56
What's a good flange to use at the turbo? I seem to remember hearing a 2.5" Garrett 4-bolt GT flange fits but I can't find the post. Any suggestions?
Also, where can I find a gradual 2.5" to 3" cone? Only thing I've found so far is a machined transition and I'm afraid it'll be so tight I can't tighten the bolts/nuts attaching the flange to the turbo.
Thanks.
Also, where can I find a gradual 2.5" to 3" cone? Only thing I've found so far is a machined transition and I'm afraid it'll be so tight I can't tighten the bolts/nuts attaching the flange to the turbo.
Thanks.
02-20-2005, 05:47 PM
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John, I think you are correct regarding the cone. It has to be less steep. It is also an advantage from flow point of view. I had to cut it at a slight angle to come clear. I use dairy pipes and the cones can be either concentric or off-set.
Bengt
Bengt
