build my own boost controller...
03-09-2005, 12:30 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by toddk911
"the return valve... smaller one-way valve that dumps pressure back into the intake, relieving the wastegate... is just a $3 PCV valve from a local auto parts store. "
How does this differ from the DV/BOV ???
How does this differ from the DV/BOV ???
the one way valve in question simply relieves pressure between the regulator and the wastegate.
03-09-2005, 01:36 PM
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since moving in with my g/f, most all of my stuff has been put into storage for now...
but this is a pic from Autospeed:
basically the same thing, but i used a plastic PCV valve, rather than the brass one they used. I'll look for another pic, too
but this is a pic from Autospeed:
basically the same thing, but i used a plastic PCV valve, rather than the brass one they used. I'll look for another pic, too
03-09-2005, 03:29 PM
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if there were no valve there, pressure would remain on the wastegate... making it easier to open. not a good thing. the one way valve (pcv valve, like others have used) lets that pressure go away. does make quite a noticable difference...
03-09-2005, 03:38 PM
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here's another pic... with the PCV valve used, rather than the big honkin' brass one...
again, this isnt my pic, this one is from a TT board (widely used by Audi guys)
again, this isnt my pic, this one is from a TT board (widely used by Audi guys)
03-09-2005, 06:07 PM
#53
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Ok gotcha. I didn't see them mention that in the DIY write up, unless it was part 2, 3.
What exactly do I ask for at the parts store?
What exactly do I ask for at the parts store?
03-09-2005, 06:18 PM
#54
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I used a Purolator part# PV1049
but i'd think that most any would work, as long as they fit in the line snugly...
be warned... might break the budet. Mine was $2.29
but i'd think that most any would work, as long as they fit in the line snugly...
be warned... might break the budet. Mine was $2.29
03-09-2005, 07:58 PM
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You can also drill a tiny hole in it on the wastegate side (like a Reliaboost uses) to dump the residual wastegate pressure. Cheaper and easier than fitting the PCV valve.
-Joel.
-Joel.
03-09-2005, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jfrahm
You can also drill a tiny hole in it on the wastegate side (like a Reliaboost uses) to dump the residual wastegate pressure. Cheaper and easier than fitting the PCV valve.
-Joel.
-Joel.
i'd thought of that, but the one way valve was pretty cheap and proven to work quite well. Plus at the time, i couldnt find any of my tiny drill bits... and didnt want to deal with drilling it too large, using a bleeder valve (further complicating fine adjustment of the boost).
03-10-2005, 09:28 AM
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Yea, I was wondering about driling the hole. Guess I'll just pick up the PCV, since they are so cheap.
I take it the flow direction for the PCV should be "away" from the wastegate?
I also got my hose and brass barbs, but now I will need a couple of 90 deg elbows.
So you really did notice a big difference when you hooked all this up?
I take it the flow direction for the PCV should be "away" from the wastegate?
I also got my hose and brass barbs, but now I will need a couple of 90 deg elbows.
So you really did notice a big difference when you hooked all this up?
03-10-2005, 10:08 AM
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If you drill a small hole like the reliaboost,
you'll end up having the same performance
as the reliaboost. Why because you're loosing
vacuum in the line going to the wastegate which
helps to keep the wastegate closed to a higher
pressure. With a drilled hole, the wastegate will
only get help from the wastegate spring to keep
it closed. In short the check valve is a rather clever
way to kill 2 birds with one stone.
you'll end up having the same performance
as the reliaboost. Why because you're loosing
vacuum in the line going to the wastegate which
helps to keep the wastegate closed to a higher
pressure. With a drilled hole, the wastegate will
only get help from the wastegate spring to keep
it closed. In short the check valve is a rather clever
way to kill 2 birds with one stone.
03-10-2005, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by J Chen
If you drill a small hole like the reliaboost,
you'll end up having the same performance
as the reliaboost. Why because you're loosing
vacuum in the line going to the wastegate which
helps to keep the wastegate closed to a higher
pressure. With a drilled hole, the wastegate will
only get help from the wastegate spring to keep
it closed. In short the check valve is a rather clever
way to kill 2 birds with one stone.
you'll end up having the same performance
as the reliaboost. Why because you're loosing
vacuum in the line going to the wastegate which
helps to keep the wastegate closed to a higher
pressure. With a drilled hole, the wastegate will
only get help from the wastegate spring to keep
it closed. In short the check valve is a rather clever
way to kill 2 birds with one stone.
-Joel.