chapstic951

Happy Christmas Eve all!!!

Well I did it. I am finally getting to all the projects I promised myself I would do over the past couple of years. I will keep you abreast with my progress and feel free to offer advise or ask questions along the way.

My wish list of things to do:
1. Replace all the gaskets and seals in the engine (nasty oil leaks all around)
2. Clean up the engine bay. (i.e. sand out the oxidation and protect it for the future) Any suggestions on this one???
3. Rebuild injectors
4. Replace front wheel bearings
5. Replace front sway bar bushings
6. Rebuild right rear caliper and repaint them black or silver
7. Install SS brake lines
8. Replace PS lines (it leaked on my sway bar bushings and destroyed the passenger side) picts to follow....quite scary acutally!
9. Replace all vacuume lines
10. Install boost gauge and narrow band A/F gauge (wide band is better but narrow band is all I can afford at this point)

No real go fast goodies this time around.

Today was pretty much just the teardown day.

hosrom_951

That turbocharger looks on the leaky side?

Id replace the injector seals (costs~$4 per injector for a kit).

I was recommeneded to use an overn cleaner, best way to remove oxidation i believe).

chapstic951

Yeah, there are quite a few oil leaks that need to be fixed. Once I get the turbo out I can really see where the mess is coming from. Do you have any recommendations for preventing the oxidation from coming back? Any sealents or VHT paint?

Also, my J-boot ripped when I pulled it off of the turbo and I see new replacements running around $100. Are there any alternatives that would allow the retention of the stock AFM?

DAR951

Just got my injectors back from these guys: www.injector.com just over $100 including shipping... if one believes the before and after spec sheet (haven't run it yet), well worth the effort.

Take a look at some of the POR products for rust/corrosion removal. www.por15.com

DHC8FO

As far as the oxidation on the aluminum the best way to prevent it from oxidizing is to have it annodized (the parts you can), or consider a good applicance grade powder coating. Paint will work, but it will scratch easy.
-Mark

hosrom_951

Wouldn't oxidation always return no matter what? to could help extends the time it needs to return, but never actually get rid of it????

Anyways, i used your standard oven cleaner on my wheel rims for oxidation. Worked very nicely, then i applied some metal polisher (again, for the kitchen oven) and gave it a nice semi-mirror like shine, but that would be overkill (or not) for some of us

Luis de Prat

Thanks for the pics. Looks like an exciting project, considering the work plan you've posted. Can you tell us more about your car? Miles, how it was driving up until now, how long you've had it, etc.?

Bengt Sweden

Interesting. I love to look into others projects.

You can have good or bad oxidation on aluminium. If dry, you get a thin hard layer that actually protects the aluminium ( stainless steel works the same way) in presence of humidity you get the whitish oxides that look nasty.

New injectors cost USD 60 at racetronix and is needed if you plan to upgrade power.

Even if you intend to retain the AFM it is a good idea to get a straight connection and route it towards the stock fresh air intake in order to not suck warm air from the engine bay.

bngt

chapstic951

I bought the car off of ebay in 2001 with 123K miles, it now has 135K. I ran quite strong until started taking it apart yesterday. I wasn't happy with the a few things. One being how dirty the engine bay was. It made working on it very messy and more over difficult to track down any oil leaks due to the mess. I figured I would also learn about all the nooks and cranies by doing the work myself and sharing my experience with you guys.

There were also some dangerous things that needed to be fixed. Namely the front sway bar bushing I mentioned earlier and the right rear caliper sticking and needing a rebuild. I will go take a shot of the sway bar bushing right now and show you how close to the end it is.

Sweden, who manufactures a j-boot or pipe that allows the stock AFM to be relocated closer to the fender and feed off the air inlet?

chapstic951

This is what happens when your PS line leaks on your sway bar bushings. This should have been fixed long ago.

Andre

hey while you are under there, could you snap a picture of the oil cooler and where it is placed? I put mine near the fender up front when i put my motor in but still dont completely like where it is placed.

KJM3SMG

hey, I'm in Ashburn also.. my 951 (also an 86 in Zermatt Silver) will be here today or tommorrow. I'm learning about the car still but it's cool to hear of an enthusiast nearby.

KJ
karljay.com/cars

hosrom_951

That bushing is dead shot dude. BTW, the PS pump looks good

chapstic951

Nah, I was thinkinng I could send it to a machine shop for refurbishing . The PS pump is only a few years old. It's a reman from Griffith's. Big thumbs up to those guys.

KJM3SMG, good to hear another 951 is going to be crusing around. I may go back under the car tomorrow so if you want to see what you are getting into let me know. Were all those cars in your sig yours (at one point or another)? Damn.....

KJM3SMG

Yeah I was a bit of a crazy car nut... I love Porsches after driving the fun Boxster S's... would love a 911Turbo in the future.

Alway have liked the design of the 944. One thing about the 944T is the fact that it will force me to work on the car and learn.. I might take you up on that offer and will PM you my cell number if I can if time permits.. might have to do the car transaction (got a friend driving it from Arkansas.. ETA keeps changing due to weather). But will definitely meet up regardless in the future, perhaps others in the area also. :-)