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Coilovers that delete the T-bar

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Old 12-16-2004, 04:54 AM
  #31  
J Chen
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Ooouch turbite, that is damp stiff for street.
I run 300 fronts with 400 rears. For me, I
feel that 250 fronts & 350 rears will be a
good set up for street & if you want to do DE,
put on a set of adjustable front & rear sway bar.
Old 12-16-2004, 04:59 AM
  #32  
NZ951
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Yeah I will go 968 M030's after I have run a while. Will 350 be stiff enough to delete the T-bar?
Old 12-16-2004, 06:28 AM
  #33  
hmd
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NZ951,

I got the 968 M030 but with a 250lb eibach springs at the front, very progressive.
Old 12-16-2004, 11:48 AM
  #34  
Dave E
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There is alot of info on the board about spring rate and wheel rate ratios, I think the front is .9ish and the rear is .56 if I remember...So what the effective rate at the wheel is will be 90% of front spring rate chosen and 56% for rear.
Old 12-16-2004, 12:13 PM
  #35  
pete95zhn
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Originally Posted by Dave E
There is alot of info on the board about spring rate and wheel rate ratios, I think the front is .9ish and the rear is .56 if I remember...So what the effective rate at the wheel is will be 90% of front spring rate chosen and 56% for rear.
Check this:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ght=wheel+rate

According to this you can choose between .44, .56 and .65 for rear wheel rate depending on who do you believe....
Old 12-16-2004, 01:52 PM
  #36  
J Chen
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Are you directing the question to me NZ ?
BTW did you get the pics ?
Old 12-16-2004, 02:42 PM
  #37  
Dave E
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HMMMM.......65 does seem to make more sense based on my anecdotal observation of how the car is handling. I would have wheel rates of 422.5 rear and 495, which explains the balance.



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