FSAEracer03

After strategically routing vac lines and wiring things up and then fabricating a faceplate for it all, it's here. After disassembling the glove compartment and T-ing off pressure sources, it's don'e. I can now safely boost once again and controll it all in-cockpit.

I removed the pocket underneath the stereo and fabricated a small plate, cut the holes, painted it black and mounted everything on there. I used a single source line from the IC pipe for the AccuBoost and Spearco gauge, connected with a T-fitting. The soft vac line used for the singal side prevents the gauge from reading vacuum, but it reads boost very well (I don't think that it effects the boost reading all that much). The plate was made from steel sheet metal and will be replaced down the line with a single CF piece once I get a spare piece large enough to use! The cycling valve is now out of the equation and I'm happy boosting once again!


Here's a pic, because as we all know, "this thread is useless w/o pics!"

hosrom_951

Hey, that's pretty sweet

macnewma

How are you controlling your AccuBoost remotely?

Max

FSAEracer03

What do ya mean, Max? The accuBoost can be mounted where ever you like. I just opted to mount it inside the cockpit beside the Spearco boost gauge instead of placing it in the engine bay like most do.

macnewma

Oh, I see. I thought maybe you had a way of controlling it remotely.

That's cool.

Max

Epic2112

you don't happen to have a template for the steel piece, do you?

FSAEracer03

Kevin, nope, I didn't make a template as this is a temporary plate as it is. I'm going to use this faceplate as a template for the single piece CF unit I'm going to cut later on. If you'd like one though, I could fabricated a nice, lightweight faceplate from steel or aluminum sheetmetal.

Cyrus951

All of that extra tubing doesn't affect boost?

hosrom_951

Good question

FSAEracer03

Well that is a good question. It effects it, yes, but the question is how much? Pluging the source line with my thumb and modulating the throttle, I could feel the boost pushing my thumb off. The line wasn't bulging in my hand so I decided it wasn't much of a concern. If you think about how much volume the intake system consists of, this is marginal. It seems that the boost was nearly uneffected by the line dimensions and type. I only used 7.5' of 3/16" vacuum tubing to go from the hot IC pipe to the interior. Surprisingly, the internal volume of the line is a mere 2.5ci!

Upon further thought about the vacuum difference today, I think I realized the reason why. I could smack myself for not realizing before! The vacuum source was spurred off the AccuBoost which was sourced from the hot IC pipe. Boost gauges are meant to be sourced from the intake manifold to show engine vacuum. It's not that the lines don't like negative pressure, it's that the don't have any at that point! The vacuum present in the intake manifold is totally gone by the IC and piping when you go upstream in the intake system.
Duh!

EDIT: So the gauge has a negligably more accurate boost reading, but not a vacuum reading. I'll reroute a separate manifold line T'ed off the OE line once I put the CF plate on later.

Epic2112

I'll let you know, but I'm probably just going to make one myself. I've already got one on the car, but I need to make a new one to change things around a bit. I was just being lazy, if you had a template I wouldn't have to take ine out of the car to make one .

adrial

Why do you call it more accurate?

Whats important is the pressure going into the engine, not the pressure going into the IC.

BoostSciences

FSAEracer03:

People have done this set-up before, and it will work, however, in order to minimize the effect of the flex in the rubber lines and their increased length, we suggest changing these lines to a braided line or any type of hard line. The harder lines prevent the flex and allow you to still maintain crisp boost response. Externally sheathed lines with an internal braid is the best way to go.

Regards

FSAEracer03

Yeah, that's true, but though the pressure change from the turbo to the manifold is only marginally different, having the boost controller get it's signal closer to the turbo theoretically prevents more potential overboost problems.


Thanks guys. Like I was saying, I plan to change some of the things in the long run. My original intent was to run either braided line or hard line to the AccuBoost and new gauge, but the supplier I got the line from was temporarily out of braided line in that diameter and hard line in that length, so I went with this. The signal line to the wastegate is a better, clear plastic line branched to braided fuel-hose type line.

Where else but Rennlist can you post threads about upgrade installs, and wake up to find the manufacturer of the product just responded to the post.

FSAEracer03

Here's a short clip of the Spearco boost gauge in 3rd gear (sorry, it took a second for the camera to start recording!)

http://www.geocities.com/fitebraker/boost_in_3rd.AVI