azmi951

I'm not a sterio guy but I need something other than scratching speakers.
I think I have the 10 speaker system (6 in the doors) but I'm not sure. Before I pull the rear windows out to replace the rear speakers I would like to know what I need.

it is an 88 with the "Reno" deck, 5.25"? 3"? and 1" door speakers. I have never heard of an 8 speaker system so it threw me off when I head there was a 10 speaker.

So are the rears always 4x6 or is there 2 speakers in there?

Beamz

Hi Not sure if this helps you much but when i replaced my rear speakers i removed the screws that hold the trim on near the door , then used a small screwdriver through the speaker holes in the trim to undo the speakers. Pulled back the trim far enough to remove ,then repeated in reverse for installation. Just take a little care when pulling trim back but its pretty bendy without creasing or doing damage to it.
Hope that helps yuh

GOBOGIE

2 speakers in the rear.

azmi951

Cory,

one on each side or two per side? if it is 2 per side what sizes?
And I love that picture, I wish I could have made that GTG.

Beamz,

Thank you, I will try that this weekend.

Sean

Danton

I have a pair "old school" JBL 6.5 separates upfront and in the rear. For subs I have two 8" bazooka tubes housing JL Audio woofers. Everything running off a Soundstream 705s amp and Nakamichi MB-75 head unit. 6.5's do fit upfront it just takes a little work. BTW, it's amazing how far factory systems have come since our cars came out.

Regards,
Danton
03' 325i
87' 951

Danton

I forgot to mention that the subs are in the spare tire location so you don't see them.

Regards,
Danton
03' 325i
87' 951

TurboTime

I got a KLA woofer in the back cubby. Love it! Hide the amp in the spare tire well - can't see anything. But you sure can feel it!

You can get 2 if all you want is the thump to break your liftback window ;o)

GOBOGIE

Sean there are two speakers on each side. A normal size one and a tweeter. There all components back there. E-mail me you address and I hook you up with some pics of my speaker removal.

Ian Carr

AudioBahn makes some SICK 4x6's that should fit the 944's doors (has the tweeters built in as well)... i think they put out around 95 db! go to www.ikesound.com they have cheap prices and good deals! get the audiobahns or Infinity 4x6's are good too (91 db), and you'll have some sweet speakers to go with a sweet car!

GSL-SEX2

OK, the 10 speaker system came with a 5.25" woofer, a 3.25" midrange, and a tweeter in each front door. Also comes with a 6.5" speaker and tweeter under each rear quarter window.

I recommend JL Audio completely. I had their equipment in my 1995 Cobra Vert and it sounded perfect. Never a harsh sound from the speakers, ever.

The first place to start would be replacing the deck with a good aftermarket CD or CD/MP3 unit. Follow that with a subwoofer and amplifier (for the sub). A subwoofer will make the most dramatic change in sound you will get. No matter what type of music you listen to, it will improve. Subs are not just for rap, you know. You don't want that type of subwoofer anyways. Rap usually calls for a bandpass box (for maximum monotone BOOM-BOOM). You want a sealed box for nice, accurate, controlled, linear, punchy bass. This will allow you to actually hear that bass guitar, drums, whatever. Full-range speakers just cannot do it. Your best bet is to have a custom fiberglass box made into the spare-tire well. Always ensure that the box has enough interior space to suit the requirements of the particular subwoofer that is to be used (they are all different). Probably best left to a professional. You will also need an amplifier. Make sure the output of the amp (RMS) equals or slightly exceeds the RMS requirements of the subwoofer.

As far as replacement speakers go, it really depends on how much $ you want to spend, how good you want it to sound, and how you are going to power the system.

You have to remember that you want most of the sound coming from the front. The rear is just for "fill". Why car manufacturers put bigger full-range speakers in the rear is beyond me. A subwoofer in the back won't matter, because bass that low is omni-directional. You won't notice it's coming from the back. Always set your fadder so that you can just barely hear the rear full-range speakers.

If you are powering the speakers off of a factory headunit, you want speakers that do not require alot of wattage. I recommend the JL Audio 5.25" components http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/VR525CS.html for the front. You will be hard-pressed to find aftermarket 3.25" speakers. You don't need them anyways, a good set of 5.25" components will work great.

Get the JL 6.5" coaxials for the rear http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/TR650CX.html

The fronts are a higher-end JL line, and the rears are a lower-end. You can always (and should probably) power the fronts off an amp (50x2 or so) if you get a chance. Power the rears off the headunit. It helps if your deck has a built-in high-pass crossover. In my Cobra, I was powering JL Audio XR-series (high end) 6.5" components off my HU, and it sounded pretty good. Could of used more power tho.

If you want to get serious, here's my plan:

JL Audio 3-way component system (6.5" woofer, 4" midrange, tweeter) for each door: http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/XR653CS.html
This will take some customization to open the speaker holes and such, probably best left to a professional.

JL Audio 2-way 6.5" components for the rear. http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/VR650CS.html

JL Audio 500/5 amplifier. http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/5005.html
This thing will power your entire system. 100Wx2 front, 25x2 rear and 250Wx1 for a subwoofer.

JL Audio 10 or 12" sub in a custom spare-tire well box. Probably a 12w3v2. http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/RP_Chart.html

A Kenwood KDC-X915 CD headunit with Kenwood Music Keg.
http://www.carsound.com/review_archi...nits/x915.html
http://www.musickeg.com/

Really any deck with front, rear & sub RCA pre-outs, a built-in EQ, and built-in crossovers will work.

I had the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X815 in my Cobra, and it was great. It had a motorized faceplate (MASK) that flipped around, which was cool. And a great display. Built in EQ, sub volume, crossovers, everything. The difference between the 815 and 915 is the 915 has no built-in amp (for cleaner sound when using an outboard amp).

Always remember that the published power output of a headunit is wrong. The real output is at least HALF of what is advertised. You are looking for RMS wattage, not peak. Always ignore peak, it means nothing.

I'd stay away from the Audiobahn. I have them in my current vehicle, and they sound like crap. The one's recommended in a previous post look like they have way too much depth to fit. And they are made in China. JL Audio are made in Germany, just like your Porsche.

Just be sure to install the speakers correctly, and power them with enough juice. I've seen and experienced too many times, replacing factory speakers for aftermarket, only to have sound quality or volume GO DOWN!

I definately recommend finding a good stereo shop, and having them help out with stereo selection and INSTALLATION. Stay away from Best Buy and the like. Go to the pros (any JL Audio dealer should be a pro).

Just be happy that you have the 10-speaker system. Most 944/951 owners have the 4-speaker system with the crappy 4x6 speakers. Finding good aftermarket 4x6's that fit is almost impossible. You only have 1 3/4" space behind the door before the speaker hits the window. And nobody makes 4x6 components (unless you consider the plate set-up as components). They are too small and don't provide enough mid-bass up front. Also, most of the tweeters do not swivel to direct the highs towards you.

For a good write-up of 4-speaker 944 issues, go here: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-03.htm

Does anybody know how many 944/951s came with the 10-speaker system? I'm looking for a 951 with the 10-speaker, and they seem to be VERY rare.

Let us know how it goes,
IJ

azmi951

WOW thank you for the help!!! I will most deffinatly look into the JL components. This makes my search a whole bunch easier.

GSL-SEX2

Seriously tho, look into getting a better headunit and sub/amp first.

With a headunit with built-in high-pass crossovers, you can reduce the bass that is sent to your full-range speakers. This way, those speakers aren't trying to make subwoofer sounds (which they can't do). That wastes alot of energy, and causes the speakers to rattle and distort. Since the deck isn't sending those lows to the small speakers, more power is provided for mids and highs.

Then, get a subwoofer and amp for the lows.

If the headunit has an EQ, you can set it so that everything sounds the way you like. Not enough midrange? Voices sound muffled? Turn up the gain in the 500-3000 Hz band. Guitars too sharp and loud? Bump it down around the 3000-7000 range. No cymbals? Up the 7000-20K Hz.

After this, you may not even need to replace your other speakers unless they are blown or something.

World of difference.

azmi951

I did replace the factory head unit and that made a world of difference but most of the factory speakers are blown. The foam surounds are broken and crispy and they crackel VERY bad. hey it is an Arizona car, not a hint of corosion but some of the soft parts are not fairing too well.